Note: the wavelength of Near-IR (NIR) light is longer then that of visible light, thus for all practical applications you need to adjust the focus. For NIR this means that you need to move the focus point about 10-20% closer to the camera to get sharp focus. Then it is just a matter of holding it steady for the time required (as in use a tripod if you are not already).
I recommend the following.
- with the filter off using autofocus find the focus point.
- turn autofocus off and see where the range is set at
- carefully put on filter.
- adjust the focus to a closer distance by about 10-15%
- take some pictures adjusting shutter/aperture settings as needed (histogram should be a bit dark) (good starting default is 10 seconds at F4 on a sunny day (if I remember right) (30 seconds at f22 seems to also produce good results if I remember right)
- take several shots adjusting the focus a little bit each way. Repeat as necessary for different aperture/shutter settings.
One of the results should be in focus.
The slowest I have gotten a decent IR shot was at 4 seconds, with my 50/1.4 at f1.4 and ISO 400. Since I hate anything above ISO 400 and IR just makes it worse I have not tried it at higher ISOs. Note NIR light goes up to 1.2um* in size which is getting a bit large for detectors at 7.8 for the 10D, luckly the cutoff for camera's the IR filter appears to be around .85um
Just my memory and opinion, although I have recently been playing with IR on my Canon XL2, it has been awhile for my 10D.
P.S. Don't have one, but I suspect the G3 has a greater depth of field then the 10D at the same aperture setting.
* visible 0.4 to 0.75, NIR= 0.75 to 1.2ish, SWIR = 1.2 to 4.0, MWIR, 4.0 to 8.0ish, LWIR = 8.0 to 12.