Why can't DPP make the jpeg I want?

I'm not understanding what my problem is in making jpegs from RAW with DPP. No matter what I do the jpeg has drastically different color than it should. A jpeg made by Zoom Browser looks just like the one right out of the camera. Why isn't DPP doing this when using shot settings? I know it's not going to be exact but the difference is way off.

Just out of interest are you using the latest version of DPP? From memory it's 3.2 but don't quote me on that...

JoYork wrote in post #4848728
Just out of interest are you using the latest version of DPP? From memory it's 3.2 but don't quote me on that...

I'm using 3.0. Would 3.2 make that much difference? I tried updating it once but got lost in Canon's web of confusion. I'll try it again.

Just tried it again and I get to the part where you agree to the disclaimer and when I click on it I get a pop up 404. Oh well, maybe I'll try that Raw Therapee program I've seen talked about around here.

Make sure your colour workspace is sRGB all the way through. If you're outputting your jpegs in Adobe RGB that may well be your problem.

Check your color management settings under preferences.

DPP will not match the settings of Zoombrowser.

I emailed Canon about this over a year ago. They reiplied that Zoombrowser and DPP use different algorithms for RAW image processing. Zoombrowser uses algorithms that either is the same as the DIGIC chip in camera, or very close... therefore results that match out of camera .jpg. What's more, since the algorithms are different, there are no settings in DPP that you can easily adjust (say boost contrast, boost saturation) that will MATCH zoombrowser's output consistently.

That's one of the things you'll realize about RAW. Every converter processes differently, and for the most part settings from one are not transferable to another (again... +1 saturation in one is not = +1 in another.)

Also, the washed out "flat" look is typical for default conversion in many RAW converters, because they are not applying the contrast/saturation/to​ne curve that the camera is automatically applying to the .jpg image out of camera.

That said... if output .jpg isn't matching how it appears in DPP, check your color settings. Also, are you calibrating your monitor? I believe you must point DPP at the correct monitor profile (it doesn't use it automatically like Photoshop.... unless they've changed that recently.)

Everything is sRGB. I don't have a monitor profile though.

It's weird that DPP can't get closer to the camera than it does. It seems like they could have stuck some presets in that would be close to the camera for when you just want to dump a bunch of files to jpeg for sharing etc.

Bruce_B wrote in post #4849148
Everything is sRGB. I don't have a monitor profile though.

It's weird that DPP can't get closer to the camera than it does. It seems like they could have stuck some presets in that would be close to the camera for when you just want to dump a bunch of files to jpeg for sharing etc.

That's where I suggest using Zoombrowser... it gets almost identical to how in-camera .jpg would have looked. (Yes, you can select a bunch of RAW's in Zoombrowser and batch convert them.) I prefer DPP overall, however for actual adjustments when I want more out of an image.

Also,
reason they can't do a preset, is (as I said) the conversion algorithms are different from those used in camera. Therefore, a profile that does GREAT on one shot in certain lighting conditions could be sub-par on a another shot in different conditions.

Same goes with if you use a "recipe" in DPP or a preset in Lightroom... it may look great on a select group of images... but not very good on another.

I believe the whole point in shooting RAW is to be in control of the file rather then to replicate how the camera would've done it. If you are happy with how the camera control the output file there is no point in shooting RAW.

BTW post some samples!!!

davidcrebelxt wrote in post #4849167
That's where I suggest using Zoombrowser... it gets almost identical to how in-camera .jpg would have looked. (Yes, you can select a bunch of RAW's in Zoombrowser and batch convert them.) I prefer DPP overall, however for actual adjustments when I want more out of an image.

Thanks for the advice. I like DPP better too but I guess I'll use ZB when I just want to spit out a bunch of jpegs. Or maybe I'll just buy some bigger cards and always shoot RAW+

lostdoggy wrote in post #4849252
I believe the whole point in shooting RAW is to be in control of the file rather then to replicate how the camera would've done it. If you are happy with how the camera control the output file there is no point in shooting RAW.

BTW post some samples!!!

I am generally happy with jpegs from the camera but sometimes wish I had something in RAW. What I was thinking is that I would just shoot RAW, spit out the jpegs that I'm used to, and still have the RAW files stored for if I need them. I guess it's more complicated than that unless I shoot RAW+jpeg.

Bruce_B wrote in post #4849291
I am generally happy with jpegs from the camera but sometimes wish I had something in RAW. What I was thinking is that I would just shoot RAW, spit out the jpegs that I'm used to, and still have the RAW files stored for if I need them. I guess it's more complicated than that unless I shoot RAW+jpeg.

Thats almost exactly what I was doing about a year ago.

Now, I typically shoot RAW only. And IF I want to share a batch of vacation pictures quickly without any edits, I'll batch them through Zoombrowser... otherwise I edit the RAW images... the more you do it, the better you get, and the quicker it goes.

Just shoot RAW + JPEG or straight JPEG if all you're going to do is use the SOOC JPEG images anyway...