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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 09 Feb 2008 (Saturday) 15:22
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Elinchrom 400BX or D-Lite2 (or D-Lite4)?

 
aia21
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Feb 10, 2008 05:45 as a reply to  @ post 4887535 |  #16

digitaljoe wrote in post #4887233 (external link)
I have the 2's and would really recommend the 4's if budget allows. The latter give you so much more light and are more versatile - if you want to wipe out backgrounds for instance.

I am happy with the 2's (non-fan cooled) but turn the modeling lights off when set-up. I don't like the screw which allows the softbox to be angled - this is easy to strip. Also the largest softbox they can take is a medium 3x4 ft and this is pushing it. They won't take a large. The light quality and controls are excellent.

I would have liked a brighter modeling light 100W is poor. Hensel for instance is 300W+. You need to be able to see what you are doing and bright modeling lights are important.

If I bought again - for long term use - I would go up market to the BX's etc which are made in Switzerland and not India.

Thanks for your comments! The problem with the BX is they are quite a lot more expensive. :(

Best regards,

Anton


7D | 40D | 17-55 f/2.8 IS + hood | 70-200 f/4L IS | 580EX II | 2x Vivitar 285 | IXUS 860IS

  
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steveathome
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Feb 10, 2008 05:48 |  #17

The strange thing about the BX range is you have only a choice of 100Ws or 400Ws?




  
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TMR ­ Design
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Feb 10, 2008 05:54 |  #18

aia21 wrote in post #4887558 (external link)
Thanks for your comments! The problem with the BX is they are quite a lot more expensive. :(

Best regards,

Anton

The BX is more expensive and for your needs I can't imagine the D-Lite 2 or 4 not giving you what you want.


Robert
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aia21
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Feb 10, 2008 05:57 |  #19

Hi Robert,

Thanks a lot for all your comments! Very helpful indeed! :D

TMR Design wrote in post #4887543 (external link)
True but you have to be careful of the space and think about the apertures you want and need to shoot at. With the D-Lite 4, for instance, if you want to shoot at f/4 or 5.6 and like close lighting with the softbox 3 feet from the subject then you can't drop the power enough (D-Lites only cover a 5 stop range, not 6 like many others) to achieve that, and that forces you to change the lighting by moving the light further away from the subject. You're back to being controlled by the lights rather than being in control.

Yes this is exactly the kind of thing I was wondering about with the D-Lite4 vs D-Lite2...

If I was using a bare reflector I would imagine adding barn doors would allow me to limit the light output on the D-Lite4 to any extent I wanted but presumably I cannot use barn doors inside a softbox and even if I could presumably that would cause the softbox to not be very evenly lit?

Looks like I will be going for the D-Lite2 set as I won't have much space most of the time (our house is not very big and I mostly want the lights to take portraits of our children and possibly other people one day) and I don't have the budget to buy large softboxes anyway...

I like it when the cheap option is also the best option for me. :D

PS. Robert, your long thread Question about using Barn Doors on strobes with Scott Smith (lightingman) from last year was an amazingly useful read!

Best regards,

Anton


7D | 40D | 17-55 f/2.8 IS + hood | 70-200 f/4L IS | 580EX II | 2x Vivitar 285 | IXUS 860IS

  
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TMR ­ Design
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Feb 10, 2008 09:37 |  #20

Hi Anton,

aia21 wrote in post #4887588 (external link)
Hi Robert,

Thanks a lot for all your comments! Very helpful indeed! :D

My pleasure :)

aia21 wrote in post #4887588 (external link)
Yes this is exactly the kind of thing I was wondering about with the D-Lite4 vs D-Lite2...

If I was using a bare reflector I would imagine adding barn doors would allow me to limit the light output on the D-Lite4 to any extent I wanted but presumably I cannot use barn doors inside a softbox and even if I could presumably that would cause the softbox to not be very evenly lit?

Barn doors are great devices for controlling light and can certainly be used to mechanically reduce output but as you've already figured out they can't be used inside of softboxes or enclosed light sources. Reducing output can be accomplished in a few ways but the only real way to reduce output without changing the quality of light is to somehow rig up an ND gel inside of the box. I was almost going to try and do that but once I made the switch to the D-Lite 2's I found I didn't have to do that. If you only want to lose about 1/3 or 2/3 stop you can double up the diffusion material on the front of the box. It will change the quality of light slightly but if you're already using diffusion material then chances are that you won't be bothered by slightly softer, more diffused light. If you were going for harder light it might not be so easy.

aia21 wrote in post #4887588 (external link)
PS. Robert, your long thread Question about using Barn Doors on strobes with Scott Smith (lightingman) from last year was an amazingly useful read!

Glad you enjoyed it and are able to make use of the content.


Robert
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aia21
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Feb 19, 2008 09:48 |  #21

Just to provide an update to anyone who may be interested, here is what warehouseexpress said about the D-Lites they sell:

Dear Anton,

I've just been informed buy our buying department that the new D-Lite
kits coming through should all be fan cooled - we're due some in today
or tomorrow, and we are expecting them to be the new versions.

Kind Regards,
Warehouse Express


7D | 40D | 17-55 f/2.8 IS + hood | 70-200 f/4L IS | 580EX II | 2x Vivitar 285 | IXUS 860IS

  
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Elinchrom 400BX or D-Lite2 (or D-Lite4)?
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