-=1D Classic Lovers !!!

if those op-amps weren't so damn close to the ccd the 1D would never leave my hands! bummer

So i just got home after driving 200 miles to pick up my used 1D classic and all i can say is WOW!!!
The camera is amazing.. i have a 5D but i think this camera is so much more fun!! Its sounds awsome when firing off on burst mode!!!!

Im going duck hunting in the moring and will post some pics!

Ugh...I hate you guys. I want one so badly now! The price and smaller RAW files, coupled with the 1D build and features, make this the perfect camera for a lot of the stuff I do...ideal backup to my 5D.

You guys are all EVIL!

ebann wrote in post #4926046
if those op-amps weren't so damn close to the ccd the 1D would never leave my hands! bummer

what are op-amps?

1D Classic w/ 24-70L lens RAW file

Anybody have a random one (or two) with color in it, ISO 200, that I can mess with?

Just personal PP'ing practice basically.


thanks,
Dan

.

azneric3 wrote in post #4930763
what are op-amps?

This is what Chuck Westfall had to say about the 1D and long exposure shots, in an email he recently sent to me. "Canon Inc.'s response has not been publicly posted, but the bottom line is that the issue cannot be resolved via firmware. It is a by-product of the CCD design. Here is a translation of Canon Inc.'s statement: The CCD used in the EOS-1D incorporates a simultaneous-retrieval multi-line system in order to achieve approximately eight frames per second in continuous shooting mode. Therefore, two exits are designed in the CCD, and also two amplifiers with two different circuits are applied to the inside. The electric charge, which is generated with the photodiode (Photo detector) in the CCD, is transferred vertically and horizontally in a bucket brigade way, and composes an external output of picture signal by converting it into voltage with the amplifier near the exit.
The generated electric charge includes the noise components of both the signal data, which is proportional to the incident light, and the dark current, which is produced by the photodiode itself. It is known that the longer the exposure is, and the higher the environmental temperature gets, the larger the noise component with the dark current becomes.
The magenta-colored noise, which appears on both upper corners of the frame in images taken at slow shutter speeds, is due to the fact that heat caused by the amplifiers, which are positioned close to the sections of the CCD where the picture signal is read out, is higher than in other parts of the CCD. As result, the dark current, which occurs at the photodiode near the amplifier, is also increased. This phenomenon can be seen in other digital cameras as well, however, in case of slow shutter speed photography, we recommend you not to use the camera continuously, but turn it on just before taking pictures."

1st shot taken with the 1D on the way home from picking it up... i could not resist having a go!!

emtp563 wrote in post #4913281
I love mine for many reasons.

1.) the build
2.) the ergonomics
3.) the 1/16,000 shutter speed AND 8.5fps drive speed
5.) 1/500th sync speed
6.) the weatherproofing
7.) the weight (it doesn't feel like a cheap plastic toy)
8.) the resulting pictures are VERY sharp do to the lax AA filter
9.) the small file size of the 4MP images- easier and faster to work with
10.) the AF
11.) the accuracy of the metering

Where would you use 1/16,000 of a second shutter speed ?

sports

ebann wrote in post #4930861
This is what Chuck Westfall had to say about the 1D and long exposure shots........

I wonder if the op-amps are sized and positioned as such that small heat sinks could be glued to them? "Artic Silver Thermal Compound" is good to 150 degrees C and I know them little suckers can't be getting that hot.

pro wrote in post #4930909
sports

How often can you get to that speed ?

Usually I think we're lucky to get 1/1000

Davidoff wrote in post #4930890
Where would you use 1/16,000 of a second shutter speed ?

Bright sunlight, you're shooting a brightly lit, perhaps even reflective object, and you want to shoot wide open with a low depth of field for creative effect?

I've hit 1/4000 of a second on my old 400D before, and wanted faster because it was still too damn bright.

At iso 100 ?? What apperture were you using ?

Between f/4 and f/11, ISO 100. Any higher than that and you start to see diffraction effects on a cropped body.

I was shooting an airshow, with the sun in front of me and a little to the right. Very, very bright, pretty much shooting into the sun, and the planes reflected a lot of light on their metal bodies too. Not every shot, most were around 1/1000, 1/500 if I recall, but sometimes you just get a really, really bright subject and need that shutter speed.

But my original point still stands - if you want to shoot wide open for creative control of depth of field, sometimes you need ridiculously high shutter speeds.

Shooting at f/1.8 or f/1.4 for example, in bright daylight, if you want a normal, sunny 16 exposure at ISO 100, you need a shutter speed of 1/12800s

I was just asking because I only hit 1/8000 on my D70s when using f/1.8 or f/2 in very bright sunlight at iso 200 ( because it's the lowest possible value ), so it is very very rare and I was thinking if 1/16000 was that frequent, at iso 100. Particularly with longer lens, no one shoots 300mm at f/2.