Markins M-10L Tripod Ballhead

I am thinking of getting the Markins M-10L Tripod ballhead.For those of you out there who has had any experiences with this ballhead,what do you think of it,would you highly recommend it?How would you compare the Markin M-10L to the Really Right Stuff and Kirk ballheads?Thanks.

I have the Markins M-10L ballhead. It is amazing, absolutely no slippage and the camera stays locked in all positions.

I use it with all my lenses up to 70-200 2.8 and including the 100-400.

Very stable and a joy to use.

Just for fun, I mounted my Sigmonster (300-800) on it and it was surprisingly usable. (not as good as a gimbal of course)

My friend has the really right stuff 40 and I use it sometimes. To me, the Markins is superior, smoother and easier to operate.

I have to say that the RRS clamp is great.

If I had to do it again, I would buy the Markins M-10L without a plate holder and get just the RRS clamp to put on it.

That would be the ultimate combo.

Good Luck.

Jean

I have this ball-head and have nothing but praise for it. I especially recommend the "L" version since it places the main knob directly in front me as opposed to it being on the opposite side of the ball-head. I can't overstate the quality and functionality of the Markins ball-head. It is rock solid, easily adjusted, and can be released and locked by simply rotating the main knob a fraction of inch. The Markins is so smooth and sturdy that I never have to worry about it failing and allowing my lenses to fall unexpectedly. This ball-head is a work of art and operates flawlessly under all kinds of conditions. I have used it in sub-freezing weather and it worked as smoothly as it did in the heat of summer. Great ball-head!

ticounne wrote in post #4916183
I have the Markins M-10L ballhead. It is amazing, absolutely no slippage and the camera stays locked in all positions.

I use it with all my lenses up to 70-200 2.8 and including the 100-400.

Very stable and a joy to use.

Just for fun, I mounted my Sigmonster (300-800) on it and it was surprisingly usable. (not as good as a gimbal of course)

My friend has the really right stuff 40 and I use it sometimes. To me, the Markins is superior, smoother and easier to operate.

I have to say that the RRS clamp is great.

If I had to do it again, I would buy the Markins M-10L without a plate holder and get just the RRS clamp to put on it.

That would be the ultimate combo.

Good Luck.

Jean

Jean,
If I may ask,why do you suggest getting the Markins M-10L without the plate holder and get the RRS clamp instead?What does the RRS have that the Markins doesn't have?Or what can the RRS do that the Markins can't do?
Thanks.

RRS has a lever clamp. It is fast and convenient. Markins only has a screw clamp. It is good but the RRS lever clamp is great.

I went with the Kirk BH-3 (For use with lenses smaller than 300mm f2.8 or 400mm f3.5) _ read a lot of excellent reviews on this line up.

Hi,

A photographer I work with has the RRS40 from Really Right Stuff, and while I prefer my Markins M-10L I tried the quick release lever plate from his ballhead.

The quick release is very solid and is simply easier to work with than the Markins plate thumbscrew.

You chould note that if you devide to go this route ie: Markins M-10L ballhead and RRS quick release plate, you have to use the camera and lens plates from RRS.

The groove on the side of the plate is deeper on the RRS and ensure a safe contact with the quick release.

Jean

Heres another vote for the M10 with the RRS B2 LR clamp. Far and away better than any other combination I've ever tried.

I am still amazed at how securely the lever clamps the whole thing down.

Richard

Here are two shots of the M10's little brother with an RRS lever clamp. I love the combination.

Jim,
Question about the mounting threads in this setup. Did you use loctite when threading the RRS plate to the Markins M10? And did you mount the stud to the RRS lever clamp and then thread that into the Markins - or the other way around, mounting the stud in the Ballhead and then thread the clamp on to the stud sticking out of the M10?
Wanting to do this procedure right the first time.
John

Another option is the Arca Swiss Z1 ballhead with lever clamp. I've recently bought one and I'm extremely pleased with it - rock solid, super smooth and very fast & easy to operate.
A huge step forward compared to my old ballhead - manfrotto 488 rc0.

johnaussie wrote in post #5719235
Jim,
Question about the mounting threads in this setup. Did you use loctite when threading the RRS plate to the Markins M10? And did you mount the stud to the RRS lever clamp and then thread that into the Markins - or the other way around, mounting the stud in the Ballhead and then thread the clamp on to the stud sticking out of the M10?
Wanting to do this procedure right the first time.
John

I also have the M10 with an RRS lever clamp. I used Loctite "Blue", which is non-permanent, when I attached the clamp to the ballhead. Here's how I did it:

1.) Apply a liberal amount of Loctite Blue to the threaded hole in the RRS lever clamp.
2.) Apply Loctite Blue to the first 1/8" or so on the Markins stud (Note that the stud end with the hole in it goes into the ballhead).
3.) Thread the stud into the lever clamp from the bottom and ensure that the top of the stud is flush or one thread above the top thread in the clamp's mounting hole.
4.) Let that cure for a few hours.
5.) Apply more Loctite Blue to the remaining threads on the stud and also to the threads in the ballhead.
6.) Thread the clamp/stud assembly into the ballhead until the clamp "bottoms out" against the top of the ballhead. Let cure for a few hours. You're now finished.

NOTE: Loctite Blue is pretty runny...have some paper towels handy.

I'd recommend a dry fit first, if only to make sure that you're able to get the clamp to bottom out against the ballhead while still having proper thread engagement at the stud/clamp connection. You don't want the top of the stud to protrude above the top of the countersunk hole of the clamp (which is why you want to assemble this first and let cure BEFORE attaching to the ballhead). Mine is set up with the top of the stud extending past the hole threads by one thread...not a problem since the hole is countersunk, and it offers a little bit more "bite" for final assembly.

Hope this helps.

I have pretty much the same experience and praise for the M10 that others do...with the RRL lever clamp...also used "blue" loctite to assemble.

One thing to add....I suggest you get the M10 with the Markins clamp....but order it with the comment to have them ship it to you "without Loctite".

You then have an add'l A-S clamp....at only $30, a great deal....which I used for a macro bracket, but could also be used for a monopod...or whatever.

Argyle:
Fabulous instructions - the task is set before me to accomplish today. I had a hunch this was the best approach, but now it has been confirmed on how to finish this mounting of the clamp to the Ballhead.
Once again thanks for the clarity!!

John

johnaussie wrote in post #5719235
Jim,
Question about the mounting threads in this setup. Did you use loctite when threading the RRS plate to the Markins M10? And did you mount the stud to the RRS lever clamp and then thread that into the Markins - or the other way around, mounting the stud in the Ballhead and then thread the clamp on to the stud sticking out of the M10?
Wanting to do this procedure right the first time.
John

I second Mike's clear instructions for securing the clamp. You can't go wrong.

In my specific case, I haven't used loctite because I was adapting an older RRS lever clamp from one of my other setups. I used an RRS reducer bushing and a 1/4"-20 allen screw. So far, the setup is tight and has not loosened. If it does, I will go ahead and loctite it down.