-=1D Mk II and Mk IIn Owners Unite!

kini wrote in post #8792927
I had the same issue with my 30D. I tried it once and didn't like the results at all. It was better with my 40D (a little better AF in that camera) but I have no issues with it at all on my IIN. Can hardly tell the difference with or without.

Now if I would just gt my 120-300 back and have it actually focus I would be a totally happy camper.
Gene

Thanks, that is nice to know. I borrowed a friends 1d Mark II to use at my son's football game today. We will see how it goes.

Quick question...

I usually sharpen using USM (unless I have time to be creative). I've searched the forum, but the only thing I found is one post recommending starting at 300% and 0.3 radius.

Anyone else have any recommendations? The images are coming out not very sharp, but I know the 1D2 requires more sharpening in PP than other bodies. Maybe I'm expecting too much?

What do you recommend or do?

Here is one example:

This was taken at ISO 3200, f/2.8, 1/500, with my 70-200 f/2.8L. No sharpening or any other PP done; just converted to Jpg using DPP.

HTTP response: NOT FOUND | MIME changed to 'image/gif' | Redirected to error image by FLICKR

In a high ISO image, I'd always use luminance sharpening and in general, I prefer high pass to USM.

i usually use high pass as well.

my friend suggested these settings for USM for the 1DII and 1DIIn

250-300%, 0.3-0.4 diam, 0 thresold

they get really sharp, maybe too sharp? i dont know.

HankScorpio wrote in post #8797433
In a high ISO image, I'd always use luminance sharpening and in general, I prefer high pass to USM.

mizouse wrote in post #8797971
i usually use high pass as well.

my friend suggested these settings for USM for the 1DII and 1DIIn

250-300%, 0.3-0.4 diam, 0 thresold

they get really sharp, maybe too sharp? i dont know.

How does one do high pass sharpening? I have tried it, but don't really understand it. And I did read the sharpening sticky in another forum on here, but again, just didn't understand the high pass.

Thanks for your input and help!

Hope this isnt a double post!

pantherphotos wrote in post #8798003
How does one do high pass sharpening?

In photoshop, duplicate your background layer and set the new layer's blend mode to Hard Light. Now zoom in to 100% on an in focus area. Next, Click Filter > Other > High Pass and slowly increase the amount until the image looks nice and oversharp (typically around 10). Lastly, use layer opacity and a layer mask to selectively sharpen the areas you want.

HankScorpio wrote in post #8799821
In photoshop, duplicate your background layer and set the new layer's blend mode to Hard Light. Now zoom in to 100% on an in focus area. Next, Click Filter > Other > High Pass and slowly increase the amount until the image looks nice and oversharp (typically around 10). Lastly, use layer opacity and a layer mask to selectively sharpen the areas you want.

Alright, I'll give this a try. Thank you!

When the MKIV comes out, the MKII(N) will become very affordable -- Mine stays in the kit until it dies or my son takes it.

What aftermarket battery do you all use? I'm needing to pick up another and wanted your opinions. Thanks!

You can get a Lenmark from Amazon for around $40 and it works great! Some have reported over 3000 shots on one charge, assuming you refresh it ever so often.

How do you customize the focus of your 1d Mark II for action sports? I use the back focus button and A1-Servo.

1. Manual center focus point only?
2. Auto focus point selection, primarily center?
3. Expand the center focus point?
4. Do you set it up to shoot whether the subject is focused or not?

Any of these? Other methods?

I am trying to learn football photography with the 1d MkII while shooting my son's 8yr old team.

Thanks,

Mike

Mike,
My preferred method is to use AI servo, and I generally use just the center AF point.

If the action is fairly slow, such as a horse show, when I need a different AF point, I just tap the AF point selection button, then spin the dials to get the AF point I want. That sounds time consuming, but once you get used to it, it's actually very quick.

Having said that, I also have C Fn 4 set to 2. This allows use of a given focus point ( usually center for me ), I acquire the focus I want, then hold down the AE lock button (*), and it holds that focus until you trip the shutter. It's great for focus/recompose, used mostly for subjects standing still.
When I'm on the sidelines of a HS football game, and the play is moving towards me, you just can't beat AI servo and center focus point.
I'll be curious to hear how other folks set theirs up.

Does that mean you MUST hold the * button until you trip the shutter? Or hit it once and then you can let go, like you would if using exposure lock?

Mitch,
You hold the * button down with your thumb until you release the shutter. It becomes very natural and intuitive within just a few tries. Try it !