-=1D Mk II and Mk IIn Owners Unite!

I keep wondering if the grid patterns would work better for me as most of my shooting is for sports, but I would think that it would help in general photography for horizons and such. Anyone have any input for a similar situation?

canonloader wrote in post #8805303
I think I could remember to use it just for holding a focus lock for a second or two. But for focus all the time, I always found the shutter button half press much more sensible that trying to use two fingers where one would do the same job better.

The first thing I do to my cameras is separate the focus from the shutter button. One big advantage is that by doing so, AI servo can be used just like S-AF. You can focus, let go of the * button, recompose if needed. I do this all the time. It's especially handy for candid shots when the subject may or may not be moving.

Gene

HankScorpio wrote in post #8799821
In photoshop, duplicate your background layer and set the new layer's blend mode to Hard Light. Now zoom in to 100% on an in focus area. Next, Click Filter > Other > High Pass and slowly increase the amount until the image looks nice and oversharp (typically around 10). Lastly, use layer opacity and a layer mask to selectively sharpen the areas you want.

Wow Hank, 10? I use high pass all the time and Im usually around 4-5 than still adjust opacity. All I am really trying to do with high pass is to get past the AA filter effect on the MkII files. Once HP is done, I tweak the image as needed then run USM (always after a ctrl J so I can adjust opacity). The USM sharpening depends on the image. I don't think I have ever been at 300 in USM. Typical settings there are 100/.9/4 If the image really needs some sharpening help (I should probably delete it but....) I'll apply a high radius USM layer at low strength (ie 50/3/3). That can sometimes save a marginally sharp image.

namasste wrote in post #8812635
Wow Hank, 10?

I prefer to over do it then bring it back with opacity and masks. That way if I need a bit more in a certain area, I don't have to redo it.

HankScorpio wrote in post #8813523
I prefer to over do it then bring it back with opacity and masks. That way if I need a bit more in a certain area, I don't have to redo it.

Not saying its wrong, just surprised at that level. If its works for your workflow, then its perfect.

So I tried out my 2x Tcon with a Sigma 100-300 F/4 lens that used to AF on my 1D Classic, but doesnt seem to AF on the MK II. Should this be expected?

sadler21 wrote in post #8815035
So I tried out my 2x Tcon with a Sigma 100-300 F/4 lens that used to AF on my 1D Classic, but doesnt seem to AF on the MK II. Should this be expected?

Both cameras will AF up to F/8. If it worked on the Classic, it should work on the MkII. But, I have said this before, having owned a Classic, and now a MkIIN, I remember the Classic having a noticably faster and more precise AF than the MkIIN. It would track into more clutter and in lower light than the MkIIn.

sadler21 wrote in post #8815035
So I tried out my 2x Tcon with a Sigma 100-300 F/4 lens that used to AF on my 1D Classic, but doesnt seem to AF on the MK II. Should this be expected?

I know I have read about certain Sigma lens not being compatible with later model cameras and folks had to send the lens in to be rechipped.

Just two...

airbutchie wrote in post #8816595
Just two...

- airbutchie

They look a little soft to me...

namasste wrote in post #8812635
Wow Hank, 10? I use high pass all the time and Im usually around 4-5 than still adjust opacity. All I am really trying to do with high pass is to get past the AA filter effect on the MkII files. Once HP is done, I tweak the image as needed then run USM (always after a ctrl J so I can adjust opacity). The USM sharpening depends on the image. I don't think I have ever been at 300 in USM. Typical settings there are 100/.9/4 If the image really needs some sharpening help (I should probably delete it but....) I'll apply a high radius USM layer at low strength (ie 50/3/3). That can sometimes save a marginally sharp image.

Here is an image that I sharpened with high pass at about 8.5. I've been playing with it for the past couple of days and I really like it! It seems to do a great job at sharpening, although it is very time consuming...

2 HS football images from last Friday night. It was the first game I shot with my 1D2...I have to say, I love it more and more!!!

There were shot at ISO 3200, 1/500, and f/2.8 with my 70-200 f/2.8L. I used the high pass sharpening method Hank mentioned. Just to let everyone know, these were grossly underexposed. I wanted to really test the limits of the 1D2. In the originals, you couldn't even hardly see the black uniforms. Not that I would normally get exposures that underexposed. This is only a test!

#1

just thought i'd throw in a photo to show off this fine camera...

Although i'm constantly taunted with the idea of upgrading to Mark III's.... it's hard to when i see some of the photos out of this thing...

No sharpening done in post, just very basic color corrections.

ISO 1600 | 400mm f/2.8 | 1/200th

Byte size: ZERO | Content warning: NOT AN IMAGE

Hey guys i'm considering selling my 40D and getting a 1dii. I shoot mostly motorsport and was wondering if anyone has any opinions on whether it would be a worthwhile upgrade?

Of course! You're not losing much going from a 40D to a 1D Mark II but you're gaining a lot.