-=1D Mk II and Mk IIn Owners Unite!

hpulley wrote in post #10617171
All EF lenses will mount, EF-S will not. EF-S is a Canon proprietary mount so for third party lenses meant for crop cameras they will mount but may vignette.

How much vignetting are you getting on the 12-24mm? My 11-16mm Tokina works perfectly to 14mm, has a little vignetting at 13mm and worse but still usable at 12mm while 11mm is not really usable except for a panorama.

Cool thanks for the info. regarding vignetting, at 16mm theres non anything wider it just gets bigger.

cb1 wrote in post #10621593
Cool thanks for the info. regarding vignetting, at 16mm theres non anything wider it just gets bigger.

Interesting, the 11-16mm does better then. 14mm is perfect, 13mm is usable and in dark rooms even 11mm is not bad, actually in dark rooms it is hard to notice if you compose correctly.

Here are some shots I took today for fun with my kids at indoor black light mini putt. Sorry, hand held and I was looking at the barrel to choose the focal length each time so the vantage point is not identical on each shot. No peripheral illumination or distortion adjustment was done to these, just some NR since they were shot at 3200 ISO in extremely low light.

Perfect as far as I can tell at 14mm, posted two because the better one for comparison doesn't show the corners as well as this first one:
http://www.flickr.com/​photos/hpulley/4839751​858/

tfd888 wrote in post #10615827
........Only a Canon center can read the actual shutter count which has been likely done by Adorama which is why they quoted the 120k clicks.

.....

We have the software to read the actuations on the following:

CANON EOS-1D DIGITAL SLR
CANON EOS-1D MARK-II DIGITAL SLR
CANON EOS-1D MARK-II N DIGITAL SLR
CANON EOS-1DS DIGITAL SLR
CANON EOS-1DS MARK II DIGTAL SLR

btmlinedan wrote in post #10618492
love it! 100-400?

sigma 120-300 + 1.4 converter

@ 20Dnewbie, I'm sure you will get another chance, but I was very lucky to have good weather in Scotland (lol)

hpulley wrote in post #10621969
Interesting, the 11-16mm does better then. 14mm is perfect, 13mm is usable and in dark rooms even 11mm is not bad, actually in dark rooms it is hard to notice if you compose correctly.

A touch of vignetting at 13mm:
http://www.flickr.com/​photos/hpulley/4839137​379/

I'll post some more controlled shots taken in more normal lighting tomorrow.

Thanks for taking the time! I have a very hard time seeing the vignetting in the 13 mm shot (even the full size), but it may be more obvious in normal light.

I've got another problem - this time with AF confirmation chips for manual focus lenses.
There was an older type of chips that back- or front-focused on Canon 50D. Later this bug was fixed, and newer type has no problem with 50D. When I am trying to use this newer version on 1D mk2, the camera recognizes that there is a lens (AF microswitch on bayonet is enabled by the adapter), but doesn't indicate the F number and of course it doesn't confirm AF. The body can take pictures, while without chip it says Error99 and wouldn't shoot.
The older chips work just fine, but I am afraid they will be hard to find or indetify.

Has anyone here used most up-to-date EMF chips? Any problems May be I should try one of these?

kdarling wrote in post #10637826
Thanks for taking the time! I have a very hard time seeing the vignetting in the 13 mm shot (even the full size), but it may be more obvious in normal light.

Here are some indoor shots that show it more though really, 13mm is still quite usable. I've got a corrected shot here as well to show how just DPP's illumination and distortion correction fix it right up though you lose a few degrees too from the distortion correction but at least the shelf is flat again...

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Replying to my own post here... You can just use the peripheral illumination correction if you don't want to lose the extra degrees of angular view. As long as there aren't straight lines near the edge of the frame you don't notice the barrel distortion. On a 1.6x crop you don't see the barrel distortion normally as they're hidden off the frame but 1.3x shows you the 'bad' parts of the lens you don't normally see.

hpulley wrote in post #10637885
On a 1.6x crop you don't see the barrel distortion normally as they're hidden off the frame

Of course wide angle lenses show distortion on 1.6 crop (I've been there lately ) - though they are not as pronounced (e.g. for 24-105L at 24mm it's 1.8% on a 1.6 crop and 4.3% on FF - I suppose 1.3 crop will be somewhere in between)

kissel wrote in post #10637943
Of course wide angle lenses show distortion on 1.6 crop (I've been there lately ).

True but wide angle lenses meant for crop show even worse distortion when you show the part you don't normally see on crop body...

Barrel is normal on the short end of zooms too. Usually pincushion on the long end. Always fun to correct...

hpulley wrote in post #10637878
Here are some indoor shots that show it more though really, 13mm is still quite usable. I've got a corrected shot here as well to show how just DPP's illumination and distortion correction fix it right up though you lose a few degrees too from the distortion correction but at least the shelf is flat again...

Many thanks for your help! May I ask why you chose the 11-16 instead of the Tokina or Sigma 12-24?

Best regards,
Kenneth

I'm still in Vietnam right now...for another week to be exact.

I took this pic while in Ho Chi Minh:

SOOC.

Nice! ^

From today...

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kdarling wrote in post #10640427
Many thanks for your help! May I ask why you chose the 11-16 instead of the Tokina or Sigma 12-24?

At the time I just had 1.6x crop bodies so the FF Sigma 12-24 wasn't on my radar and it is about $1100 here so compared to all the other $500-800 lenses I probably crossed it off my list early. I had an 18-55IS kit lens so I didn't think I needed 18-24mm coverage. The Tokina was the sharpest out of the Canon 10-22, Sigma 10-20 and Tamron 10-24 that I compared at the time. f/2.8 appealed to me for indoor use.

Now that I have my 1D Mark II's, constant f/2.8 Means I can use 7 AF sensors for better focusing on the 1D Mark II which is very nice. The Tokina 12-24mm f/4 would be cross-type at the center at least. The Sigma is tempting as 12mm would work properly but f/4.5-5.6 isn't so good as the 1D Mark II doesn't have any cross type AF sensors for lower than f/4; plus its kind of slow for indoor hand held work which is why I got the f/2.8 Tokina in the first place. Really, on the 1D f/2.8 or faster lenses are best for the AF system.

Usually either 16mm or 24mm are fine even though that is a big gap at the wide end but most days when I need ultrawide I go as wide as I can and the usable 13-16mm range is almost a prime but that's OK, it is much cheaper than the 14mm f/2.8L. For people I find 24mm is fine, anything wider and I get distorted faces and bodies if the angles don't line up right but I may need to get the 16-35L II at some point... does it ever end, the gear acquisition? The day I die probably...