Studio Lighting for kids - ADVICE!!

Guys, I need a bit of advice please.

I have attached a picture of my current studio setup! Its about 3m x 6.5m with high ceilings.

Typically my lights are set at the position they are at in the picture, but lower when I am shooting kids!

The problem I am having is with metering. I shoot mostly kids (i.e. toddlers). Typically kids do not sit still so I would like to know what is the best way to take a metering reading for these two lights and how do I translate the results of the meter reading to put into my camera? If I take a reading from one light and its saying F8 @ 1/125 @ ISO100 whereas the other light is saying F5.6 @ 1/125 @ ISO100, which of these (if any) do I use as the aperture setting on my camera?

At what height (off the ground) and angle to the floor should I have the lights for shooting kids?

I am also finding that the white balance is off sometimes! I am using "Auto White Balance" on my Canon 20D.

I appreciate any advice.

Thanks

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Hey, nice clean setup you got there

I would meter individual light for the ratio, then take a final read with both lights on. F8 main and f5.6 fill would give you about f9 for the combine exposure read.

For shooting kids, I set my main light (the strobe head) about 6-12" higher than the subject's eyes as a general rule, so I would set the lightstand height accordingly. If I could, I would sit the kids on a chair or stood, much easier if I don't have to shoot at ground level, and they don't run away often as they are standing.

With my 20D, I shoot RAW and set to CB to Daylight, but you could do a custom white balance if the setting is way off.

Lotto!

Thanks for the reply! Makes sense! Unfortuantely its not always easy to get kids to stay stil! In fact, in my experience its nearly impossible!

I am buying a 5D at the start of April, so I am looking forward to the full frame experience as well!

Is there any way that you can cater for when the kids run around a little! Obviously (if using the example you mentioned) if a child moves from where the average reading is F9 the image will then be either over or underexposed!! I am assuming there is no one F setting suits all approach??

Thanks

I shoot kids a lot and know the "impossible" feeling. Few times, really SHOOTING them cross my mind Have the parents bring their favorite toys seems to keep them accupied for a little while. When the kids are in bad moods, I alway give them a break and move them out of the camera room, then have the moms to bring them back where I have the lights and camera ready in position, squeeze 5 to 10 quick shots while the moms standing behind me, either call their names or make some noise with some squeaky toys to get thier attentions. For the super cranky ones, I would have some candies or icecream nearby, with the parents permission, we would tell them they can eat it only after the shoot, that seems to work most of the time.

From the look of your room, you have plenty of 'free' fill lights from the while walls and ceiling. I would move the lights back a bit, like about 6-8 ft, you should have quite a bit space at the center that within 1/2 of the stop. Do some meter reads to see what you get. If more even coverage still needed, try bouncing the strobes off the walls and ceiling.

Lotto wrote in post #5051739
I shoot kids a lot and know the "impossible" feeling. Few times, really SHOOTING them cross my mind

Nice home studio Geoff, wish I had a spare room like that.

Lotto!

Thanks again for the advice! I pretty much use the same tecniques that you use!! Its all about patience!! i will try moving the lights back a bit and see what difference that makes!!

Thanks for your time!!

lowcrust wrote in post #5051854


Nice home studio Geoff, wish I had a spare room like that.

Thanks!! Its just my garage (that I wasnt really using so I bought a garden shed instead) that I renovated last summer!! Its perfect for what i do!!!

I'm not sure what equipment you have, but one thing that helps me is to use my giant softbox when shooting the little one's. Gives a little more room for movement before the light falls off dramatically. I find this especially useful for the crawlers, who seem to move randomly...and surprisingly quick!

dragulaz wrote in post #5052084
I'm not sure what equipment you have, but one thing that helps me is to use my giant softbox when shooting the little one's. Gives a little more room for movement before the light falls off dramatically. I find this especially useful for the crawlers, who seem to move randomly...and surprisingly quick!

Mmmmm, interesting tip! Makes sense! Must look into that!

Thanks

Dragulaz

Just on a different topic, I am assuming you are using the 24-105mm mainly for studio work with 5D? If so, how do you find this combo? I am buying a 5D and 24-105 at the start of April and am interested in your opinion!!

geofftelforduk wrote in post #5052234
Dragulaz

Just on a different topic, I am assuming you are using the 24-105mm mainly for studio work with 5D? If so, how do you find this combo? I am buying a 5D and 24-105 at the start of April and am interested in your opinion!!

Love it!! It's a great combo. I actually also use the 70-200 f/2.8 in the studio, depending on what I'm shooting. But probably 70-80% of the time I'm using the 24-105, very versatile all around portrait lens in my opinion. Paired with the 5D, the combo is just plain yummy.

Nice set-up.

If you are going to get really serious with portrait work I would suggest painting the side walls black (or hanging black curtains/drapes) That way you have far greater control over the lighting direction as it prevents unwanted light bounce off the white walls.

It would also be worth taping along the front edge of your background paper - not only does it ruin several feet of paper when someones foot gets stuck and tears it, but it also saves you from an insurance claim (you are insured aren't you) if someone trips over the edge of the paper and smacks into a light stand, bringing it all down on top of them!

TJ

dragulaz wrote in post #5052836
Love it!! It's a great combo. I actually also use the 70-200 f/2.8 in the studio, depending on what I'm shooting. But probably 70-80% of the time I'm using the 24-105, very versatile all around portrait lens in my opinion. Paired with the 5D, the combo is just plain yummy.

Excellent! Thats good to hear!! Thanks again!!

TeeJay wrote in post #5052945
Nice set-up.

If you are going to get really serious with portrait work I would suggest painting the side walls black (or hanging black curtains/drapes) That way you have far greater control over the lighting direction as it prevents unwanted light bounce off the white walls.

It would also be worth taping along the front edge of your background paper - not only does it ruin several feet of paper when someones foot gets stuck and tears it, but it also saves you from an insurance claim (you are insured aren't you) if someone trips over the edge of the paper and smacks into a light stand, bringing it all down on top of them!

TJ

Yeah I had often thought of that!!! Then I thought it might make the studio look very dull and dreary!!!

Yeah I do have black gaffer tape along the front of the background! Makes such a difference!!

My problem is stoppin the Manfrotto Expan background holding system from rolling out when people walk on the background! Its a real nuisance! I am sure there is a way to lock it in place, but I cant find it!!