Highlight Tone Priority would be helpful if you're shooting in Jpeg. From what I've seen, HTP works by lowering the ISO by a stop (e.g. from the 200 baseline to 100) and then, in processing, applies a curve to boost the darker tones up a stop but not boost the highlights.
If you're shooting in RAW, the HTP function passes a flag to a RAW processor to apply the curve to the (1 stop underexposed) RAW data, but your RAW converter may handle this in different ways.
If you're shooting in RAW, you may be best served by leaving HTP off and setting up your exposure to handle highlights properly before the shoot. You'll be able to process the image in your RAW software to get the same or better results as HTP gives.
If your shooting RAW+Jpeg, turning it on would give the benefit of an instant jpeg for viewing at the event, while in your RAW converter you can still fine-tune the image to taste.
Thanks, tonylong. That is really useful feedback. I usually shoot RAW+smallest JPEG, but I use the JPEG only for quick viewing and sorting. I'll have to brush up my Photoshop skills now and figure out how to best do what you described (bring the shadows up while leaving highlights alone). I really appreciate you taking the time to explain the options.
Definately 2 5D's. If you want something fast to back it up then look at a 1dmk2 over the 40D?
Could you please elaborate a bit on the "Definitely 2 5D's"?
You're overthinking it.
Guilty as charged.
I'm accused of that all the time whether for good or bad.
Two 5D bodies

Having a 1.3x and a 1.6x, I naturally put the longer lens on the 1.6x, but I'd rather they were both 1.3x or FF.
