Strobe & Flash Comparison Testing: Part I (Output)

Hi Wilt,

I know, I know... it's very unlike me but I've been pushing the shutter button much more than measurebating these days.

I expect to be publishing those results within a week or so.

Delays, delays.. sorry folks, it happens.

I did have the opportunity to test the much talked about Calumet Genesis 200's and those pop consistency tests will be added to the tables in post #1 of this thread within a few days.

This is not a comprehensive review of all apsects of the Genesis strobes but I'll give a quickie review since I did have the opportunity to handle, test and work with them a bit.

For anyone that is considering them and is 'on the fence' about it, I'll tell you right now there is no reason to wait for the results to be published. They are exceptional and just about as consistent as the Elinchrom D-Lite's are over 4 stops. They aren't as good at the lowest power level (-5 stops) but that's not uncommon and they didn't show bad results... just not as consistent as the other power levels.

I looked quickly at color temperature and they appear to be quite good and again, not quite as good as the D-Lite's.

One thing to note on these strobes is that although they do have digital controls, you are still adjust analog circuitry and what you'll find is that when you adjust the power level by 10 clicks (10 tenths, or 1 full stop) the power does not change by 1 whole stop. At the top end of its range, there is actually about 1/2 stop (yes, you read it right) from full power to half power (-1 stop based on clicks). As you drop the power you get closer to 1 stop but it's never quite 1 stop and the full range is only about 4.1 stops, not the specified 5 stops.

BUT, the good news is that wherever you set the power, you get consistent output. You just can't adjust by 1 or 2 clicks and know for sure that you're adjusted the power by 1/10 or 2/10. Not a big deal. Just might require some additional metering.

Build is very good and the rubberized case gives it a nice look and feel. All controls work well and are well placed for convenience of operation. The swivel mount is also very good and does not feel cheap at all.

The mount for modifiers and reflectors is the same as Elinchrom (not sure if there is any connection at all) and I did test to make sure that my Elinchrom reflectors fit as well as testing to see if the Calumet reflector fit the Elinchrom. In both cases there was compatibility.

The units I tested had the replacement covers that covered the entire modeling lamp for protection.

All in all, if you're looking for excellent quality strobes on a budget, the Calumet Genesis strobes are an outstanding product and they perform very, very well.

I'll post back when I've published the results to the tables.

TMR Design wrote in post #5548566
As you drop the power you get closer to 1 stop but it's never quite 1 stop and the full range is only about 4.1 stops, not the specified 5 stops.

I can confirm that this is *exactly* what I found with my Genesis 200's. Full power metered at 10', ISO 100 gave f/8.1 while at minimum power I metered f/2.0.

TMR Design wrote in post #5548566
The swivel mount is also very good and does not feel cheap at all.

A caveat here: I found the swivel mount to be marginal with a large (48" x 36") softbox mounted. Unless the clamp is *really* tight, the light has a tendency to flop forward. I'm thinking of adding a counterweight using the umbrella shaft mounting hole.

Dave F.

Hi Dave,

I didn't put any weight or modifiers on it but upon initial inspection it appeared to be solid. Many of the lesser expensive strobes use a plastic mount that is just not meant to have large and heavy modifiers mounted.

This is also easily remedied by using speedrings like the Photoflex that have 1/4"-20 and 3/8" threads for mounting to the light stand or umbrella bracket. This takes the weight off the swivel mount and really works well. If you use a good umbrella bracket like a Bogen or one that is made of aluminum and steel rather than plastic then you're in good shape.

If anyone wants to see what this looks like I can post an image.

I figured I would post these images anyway just in case some people don't know what I'm describing or that this can be done.

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Robert;

I'm curious what that black screen-like object is inside the softbox in the photos you posted.

Thanks for the tip on the Photoflex ring. Are you using Photoflex soft-/Octaboxes?

Dave F.

tetrode wrote in post #5550152
Robert;

I'm curious what that black screen-like object is inside the softbox in the photos you posted.

Thanks for the tip on the Photoflex ring. Are you using Photoflex soft-/Octaboxes?

Dave F.

Looks like a gel holder.
Mike

tetrode wrote in post #5550152
Robert;

I'm curious what that black screen-like object is inside the softbox in the photos you posted.

Thanks for the tip on the Photoflex ring. Are you using Photoflex soft-/Octaboxes?

Dave F.

Hi Dave,

It is a custom filter holder mounted to the speed ring so I can use ND gels inside the softbox. Yes, I do use Photoflex Q39 softboxes.

TMR Design wrote in post #5550195
Hi Dave,

It is a custom filter holder mounted to the speed ring so I can use ND gels inside the softbox.

Not to hijack the thread Robert but, I have to ask: Do you find that a 200WS strobe (your D-lite2) dialed down 5 stops (its minimum power setting) still puts out too much light for some subjects and requires an ND filter in the soft box?

Dave F.

tetrode wrote in post #5550279
Not to hijack the thread Robert but, I have to ask: Do you find that a 200WS strobe (your D-lite2) dialed down 5 stops (its minimum power setting) still puts out too much light for some subjects and requires an ND filter in the soft box?

Dave F.

Hi Dave,

Yes, at times. If I'm doing a portrait and I want to work at wide apertures then I absolutely still need to drop the power by about 2 stops, sometimes more. If I placed my modifier 10 feet from the subject I can get the power down but if I want to create a large soft light source that wraps around the subject then I need to being it in close and even with 200ws it can be too much.

TMR Design wrote in post #5550299
Hi Dave,

Yes, at times. If I'm doing a portrait and I want to work at wide apertures then I absolutely still need to drop the power by about 2 stops, sometimes more. If I placed my modifier 10 feet from the subject I can get the power down but if I want to create a large soft light source that wraps around the subject then I need to being it in close and even with 200ws it can be too much.

Thanks, Robert. That makes perfect sense. My Genesis 200, set to minimum output, in a 48" x 36" soft box, 3' from the subject gives a meter reading of f/4+.6 at ISO 100. But, as our tests have shown, the Genesis really only offers a 4.1 stop range of adjustment. If your D-lite2 offers a true 5-stop range, you would probably be able to achieve f/2.8 given the same conditions outlined above.

I wonder what a 580EX II or SB-800 would do in a large soft box.

Dave F.

tetrode wrote in post #5550452
Thanks, Robert. That makes perfect sense. My Genesis 200, set to minimum output, in a 48" x 36" soft box, 3' from the subject gives a meter reading of f/4+.6 at ISO 100. But, as our tests have shown, the Genesis really only offers a 4.1 stop range of adjustment. If your D-lite2 offers a true 5-stop range, you would probably be able to achieve f/2.8 given the same conditions outlined above.

I wonder what a 580EX II or SB-800 would do in a large soft box.

Dave F.

Dave,

Keep in mind that I shoot Nikon and the 'base ISO' is 200, so my exposures and results reflect that. I can drop down to ISO 100 (not a true 100) to achieve wider apertures but I generally work at ISO 200. As you see, at 3 feet you're still getting f/4 + .6 using minimum power. At ISO 200 that becomes f/5.6 + .6 so when I use a 2 stop ND gel (which is not really 2 stops and turns out to be more like 1.5 stops) it drops me down to about f/4, which is where I want to be when shooting portraits with very shallow depth of field.

tetrode wrote in post #5550452
I wonder what a 580EX II or SB-800 would do in a large soft box.

Dave F.

I use an SB-800 in a 24" x 32" Photoflex Q39 softbox. I'll do some test as well as firing the SB-800 into the 36" x 48" box.

TMR Design wrote in post #5550613
Dave,

Keep in mind that I shoot Nikon

Don't tell anyone but I shoot Nikon as well (D3, D300). That ISO 200 base can be a nuisance sometimes. I like your creative solution.

Dave F.

Hi Robert,

Off topic a bit, but I was wondering if you could give me some idea of a typical power setting for a full length portrait, F8, ISO100 using a 39"x39" softbox on D-Lite2s. I guess the softbox would be 6-8 feet from the subject? I am also curious to get an idea of how you calculate it. Obviously I understand normal (ambient light) exposure on the drop off rate for distance (i.e squared rule). But I am a bit lost when calculating for flashes and light modifiers. I have to say I have been guilty of relying on ETTL-II up til now.

Thanks,
Jason.