Focus with Shutter or * [AF ON] button? -READ ME-

I'm with CDS on this one. For shooting in a variety of circumstances, having separate AF and exposure locks is very useful.

No, it's crucial.

let me ask you this....

I get that it puts the focus lock onto the * button... does that mean, though, that since exposure is still set when the picture is taken that you have to still hold the shutter halfway to lock exposure, or can you just lock exposure with the separate button and then fully press the shutter?

Also, would you really say that having it separate is better for a casual day of walking around and photographing things with no real set goal in mind of what type of shots you want to get at that given time? It seems like it's just an added step (by having to use a separate button altogether) that really isn't necessary.

For me, having it separate is valuable, no matter what I'm doing. I think there is a misconception that this is just one more thing to keep track of when shooting, but it really isn't. After a short time, this becomes second nature, and you'll find yourself doing it without thinking. You will automatically set your focus with your thumb and be confident of where the focus zones are. Then you can half-press the shutter, check exposure, and take the shot. These are things that most photographers would agree should be done separately.

Interesting... I'll mess around with it when I get my 20D, and see if I can do so with a completely unbiased outlook on it and see how it works out.


But to get back to the main topic... any other suggestions for good custom functions?

I didnt like this at first but now its what I use

I suppose it is unusual at first .. especially if you are used to doing it with the shutter button.. but if you look at the advantages.. then you may see it is worth getting used to..

You really can't try it for a day.. you need to leave it that way for a few weeks before you have retrained yourself to take 100% advantage.

I made the switch when I purchased the 1D (old one.. not the recent MkII)

In the end.. the thumb becomes second nature.. and you can recompose and re-meter at will and only worry about AF re-focusing when and where you want it too...

It offers MUCH more flexibility and cotrol over the three independant actions that are by default tied to the shutter button alone (Shutter release, Metering and/or metering lock, and AutoFocus)

By seperating the AF from the shutter button equation.. in the end you have far more controll.

P.S. the BOLD RED ASAP type was to stesss the importance of getting used to doing this as early as possible.. so as to avoid the hassle of "not being used to it"

In many photogs opinions it is the single most important switch you can make with a CF towards taking full advantage of your cameras flexibility and control. (check Sports illustrated's recomendations or Chuck Westfall of Canon)

I beleive Nikon's are set up this way to begin with.. either that .. or every Nikon I have ever handled was allready set to a rear focus button by there owners. IMHO this SHOULD be the default. Having all these functions including AF tied to the shutter release is soooo point and shoot

Yes.. it takes getting used to.

But for any type of action shooting where you actually want control of what you are focusing on.. and when,.. this is the only way to fly.

I set both my 10Ds to work this way, and it didn't really take that long to get used to it. Once I did, the advantage to the setup became obvious. It was the first thing I did with both the Mk II and the 20D, before I took a single photo (not counting the perfunctory filing cabinet shot that always seems to happen when I get a new camera.)
You will find that being able lock your exposure and focus independently is incredibly useful when setting up your shots. IMHO, this should be the default setting on new cameras.

I tried CF#4 and didn't like it at first. After awhile though it starts to feel natural. Especially when in situations when it is hard to get the focus to lock. Once locked let go of the button and that part of taking the picture is taken care of. Then you are free to point around for your exposure. It works for me now. I was in a situation last night where I thought I'd be better off going back to the default setting. I was back to using the * for focus real quick.

Guess I have to practise!
I have far too many slightly off shots not to try this (CF4).
I wonder if this will help in extreme low-light situations.

Thanks for the input. You people are as convincing as always.

J.
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I have to agree with CDS on Cfn 4 option 1. I have been set up this way since day 1 and I cannot envisage using the 10d any other way. Pressing the * button when required becomes second nature after very little practice.

How does this help in sport shooting when your "window-of-opportunity" is in less than a second ?

Cannot see the advantage, maybe I still do not understand.

I shoot bursts at horse shows and car track races.

Then you should have the focus set to AF-Servo mode and it will continuously track the focus as you hold the * button.

So you'll ask, why can't I just hold the shutter half way to track focus? For two reasons:

First, the exposure will lock as well, and as you follow your subect the exposure may change. Separating the AF from the exposure prevents this.

Secondly (and more important if you're shooting bursts, IMO), the camera slows WAY down in flushing the buffer when you keep the shutter half pressed. So by moving the AF to the * button you can track in AF-Servo mode and the buffer will run at full speed. If you had the AF still controlled by the shutter button you'd have to have it half-pressed and you'd find you'd be filling the buffer all the time.

It does not take any longer, just press the buttons at the same times.

I'm a bit skeptical but I will give it a go.

I find that as I get older - I offer as many thanks as apologies !!

Let me go out on a small limb here and say that CF 4-1 (or CF 4-3) is highly overrated. Why split AF/AE between two buttons when it is so easily and intuitively accomplished with one?

This is a setting primarily for sportshooters and action (e.g. wildlife) photography. As best I can tell (and I've tried it), it is most useful when you have the camera in AI Servo mode. Then you can press and hold the * button to use AI Servo continuous focus _OR_ you can press and release * to focus/recompose as if you were in One Shot mode. So you get finer control over how you engage and lock focusing.

The other advantage is that you can lock exposure with the shutter button (CF4-1), since normally exposure is continuously adjusted until the shutter is fully depressed (which is what happens with the CF4-3 setting).

It's not particularly hard to adapt to using CF4-1 or CF4-3. I just don't see the point except under situations when want to switch (in effect) between AI Servo and AI Focus easily.

My other major complaint is that since I shoot with my left eye and with glasses, my thumb doesn't quite find the * button target easily and comfortably. But I'd live with that if I felt that adapting to CF4 shooting was a significant advantage.

I'm still open more arguments in favor of CF4 -- but I've read quite a few.