I wouldn't glue a nut in there because steel to plastic bonds don't really hold well and you would just pull the nut out of the adapter from continually tightening on the threads.
I researched for my own education and find your adapter mount is plastic, seems simple enough fix, refill and recut the threads.
If you are not comfortable with repairing it find a friend who is comfortable with this kind of thing or walk it into a local machine shop and ask them to drill and cut the threads after you have filled the hole.
Heres a list of items needed. The Local hardware store should have these on the shelf, maybe you have a friend who does alot of do it yurself projects and may already have alot of these things on hand;
Hand drill
Center punch
Small hammer
#7 twist drill (to drill a .201 diameter hole)
1 each starting tap and bottoming tap, size: 1/4-20 UNC (Unified National Course)
Denatured alcohol
A commercial plastic resin filler.
A smooth single cut (that is the grade of the file) 6" file.
A stripped threaded hole in a plastic part can often be repaired to be "good as new" by pouring a little plastic resin, such as Alumilite, into the hole and letting it set. Then the newly plugged hole is drilled out with a small (#7) bit and the old screw threads recut back in with a 1/4-20 bottoming tap. This patch should provide good results allowing the screw can be torqued very tightly and hold well.
Using denatured alcohol clean the repair area throughly and let air dry.
Fill the old thread hole completely with the plastic resin enough that when it is dry there is just enough excess for you to file the filler flush to the original adapter mounting surface. You want to be carefull with the filing to preserve as much of the original mounting surface in its flatest state so that when the camera is mounted to the adapter plate it won't be susceptable to rocking due to high spots or low voids.
Being as accurate as possible try to mark the center point of the original hole by scratching an "X" over the point of center. Using a center punch with a sharp point and your hammer, lightly tap the center punch to mark that point. This is an important step as the center punch will keep the drill from drifting off center until it gets enough of a hole to guide itself. Drill your tap hole to the depth of the original thread.
Use your starting tap to cut starting threads first. Keeping tap perpindicular to the mounting adapter turn it carefully to get a bite then each 1/4 of a turn screwing the tap in, reverse the tap 1/16th of a turn to clear the cut plastic from cutting surfaces of the tap. Once you have screwed the starting tap in as far as it will go, repeat this step using the bottoming tap. Your using two different types of taps because bottoming taps aren't the best thread starters and starting taps will not give you a full thread to the bottom of a blind hole.
That should be it.
v/r Omd @ Canon S5-IS with a large wish list.
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"Keep shooting with the lenses you have. When you reach a point where your lens no longer keeps up with your abilities buy a better one."- SlowBlink, POTN