10D pre-flash for exposure.....

Yes for sure, the only drawback is you have to set all the light levels manually. Get a flash meter and off you go.

I never used a light meter, and these pics of mine have been coming out perfect. All I do is look at the overall exposure and the histogram, and go from there. As you can see in the last picture, I do pretty good without a light meter.

I also like using the 10D in manual mode. It makes it more fun that way!

chops wrote:
I never used a light meter, and these pics of mine have been coming out perfect. All I do is look at the overall exposure and the histogram, and go from there. As you can see in the last picture, I do pretty good without a light meter.

I also like using the 10D in manual mode. It makes it more fun that way!

Actually, none of the pictures show up for me.

vfilby wrote:

chops wrote:
I never used a light meter, and these pics of mine have been coming out perfect. All I do is look at the overall exposure and the histogram, and go from there. As you can see in the last picture, I do pretty good without a light meter.

I also like using the 10D in manual mode. It makes it more fun that way!

Actually, none of the pictures show up for me.

They show up perfectly fine for me.

Operation times out while contacting chops.tzo.com every time.

Sorry. How about now? Can you see the pics?

As stated, Manual on the camera and Manual on the flash. Once you get the hang of it, you get pretty good at predicting camera settings.

Ovi

Hey Chops,

I see them now, nice rig. I would like to see how these work in more standard portrait work, think you could do a test shot with them? Here is the low down: the two main flashes are going to act as main and fill. Put the fill light alittle to your right but on the same plane as the camera, about 3 feet away I think should do it. The fill will be half as bright as the main or 1 stop less. The main will be setup about 8-10 feet ti your left, and is one stop brighter than the fill. With this the light ration should be 3:1. Both lights pointing at the subject.

Now just drop the on camera flash as low as possible by using FEC, find a model and snap. The only purpose of the in camera flash is to trigger the slaves.

If you could do that it would be much apperciated, if not no worries.

Ceers,

Well, like I said in my first post, I can't use the on-board flash because of the pre-flash.

Sorry dude, from the pictures I assumed you found away around it.

Cheers,

Nah, it's cool. I just use one of the Vivitar flashes on the 10D, and slave the other two. It actually works out very good. However, I am going to buy another Vivitar flash just so I can have a total of three to move around seperately. I'm happy so far with the results I'm getting.

What vivitar flashes are you using .. and what were the settings used for all 3 (the 2 side and the on-board) ?? What was the camera setting ??
I have yet to retry this sort of setup (I used to use an Epson camera and 3 x 285HV guns set to low power .. using a flash meter) .. I want to compare the histogram with the flash meter readout.