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Thread started 14 Nov 2004 (Sunday) 15:51
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Is the 100-400L good for action shots?

 
lensmen
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Nov 15, 2004 05:56 |  #16

Well brother, I would like to thank you for the praises.... Really make my week....

Yes, I am indeed eyeing on the 100-400L IS...though I will be a bit out of pocket..

an alternative would be
http://www.fredmiranda​.com …duct=105&sort=7​&thecat=29 (external link)

Have held someone's during completion, and he was using the 300D on handheld. Did not get his name or see his works either but I am sure they will work out fine...

FlipsidE wrote:
Though, this thread was my inspiration for getting into action shots in the first place. If you look at the info posted a couple of posts down into that thread, you'll notice that all shots were taken with the 300D + 70-300 USM. I think they turned out VERY well. They are a little noisy because ISO 1600 was used, but that's not so bad considering that it did truly "stop the action." And, I like his composition also.

Maybe that thread and a conversation with lensmen can give you a better idea of what the Dreb can do with action shots.

FlipsidE

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lensmen
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Nov 15, 2004 06:04 |  #17

Did you have the IS mode ON while panning ?

RFMSports wrote:

commando wrote:
How did you guys get the cars so crisp and clear given they were probably moving pretty damned quickly? Especially you RFMSports. Did you just use a high shutter speed, or are there other tricks?

Panning. Practice, practice and much more practice.

The shutter speed was 1/250 on the top photo and I have shot much slower. It's awesome when you get it right on.


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lensmen
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Nov 15, 2004 06:05 |  #18

If you notice, all the shots are at 1/1000 and above....

izzypizzy wrote:
Hey, I was searching around on yahoo, and found this site, thought maybe it would be helpful for ya

http://www.wakeboarder​.com/display.phtml?id=​553 (external link)

It gives tips on wakeboard photography.


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FlipsidE
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Nov 15, 2004 06:09 |  #19

izzypizzy wrote:
Hey, I was searching around on yahoo, and found this site, thought maybe it would be helpful for ya

http://www.wakeboarder​.com/display.phtml?id=​553 (external link)

It gives tips on wakeboard photography.

WOW!! Thanks for the link!

FlipsidE


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FlipsidE
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Nov 15, 2004 06:14 |  #20

Hmmm...looks like they are using apertures in the range of 2.8 to 4.5...somewhat outside the range of the 100-400L at higher focal lengths. It also looks as they they are using the 70-200/2.8.

FlipsidE


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lensmen
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Nov 15, 2004 06:21 |  #21

He was using these lenses and shot from the chase boat or tow boat...ie following the actions. not from shore...

with this advantage, the subject's distance from camera are generally constant, unlike shooting from shore where one has to pan...

Yes, our 300D do not have AI servo, ie continuous focus... irrating to keep 1/2 pressing the button all the time....

16-35mm f2.8 – this is a wide-angle lens. I use it for tube shots, when I’m floating in the water, or on land up close to an obstacle like a slider.

28-70mm f2.8 – this is a midrange lens. I don’t use it as much as my others, but I do use it when doing extremely close chase boat shots (i.e. 6-10 feet from the rider).

70-200mm f2.8 – this zoom lens is the workhorse of most pros. It can be used from chase boats at all angles, from within the towboat, or pretty much anywhere else.

300mm f2.8 – this is probably the least needed out of everything in a pros bag, and isn’t found in everybody’s (including mine). It is great for shooting from land, or if you want to shoot really tight from a chase boat or in the towboat.


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Nov 15, 2004 06:24 |  #22

lensmen wrote:
70-200mm f2.8 – this zoom lens is the workhorse of most pros. It can be used from chase boats at all angles, from within the towboat, or pretty much anywhere else.

- Yeah, this is what I was lookin at. Seems to me, though, that 70-200mm would be great for someone who had an "in" into that particular tournament and could be guaranteed a spot on the towboat or on a dock/bank right beside the action.

For those of us that will be on a bank or on a dock with a restricted spot to snap shots, I think the extra 200mm given by the 100-400 would almost be a necessity...even though it is a good bit slower.

FlipsidE


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Nov 15, 2004 07:04 |  #23

RFMSports wrote:
Yes it can get into search mode from time to time on the 10D in reduced light. I did notice that too, but it recovers pretty quick and I didn't seem to have that problem with it on the MKII. I have not even tried it on the 20D yet. That's why I also have the 400 f/5.6. AF is faster and it never searches.

Ah... so I'm not the only one that happens to then. I tend get out the Sigma 120-300mm f/2.8 when that starts happening. That will AF quite happily in all sorts of horrid light levels.


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skiphoto
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Nov 15, 2004 16:05 |  #24

100 400 L Wakeboarding

Howdy,

I mainly shoot watersports (Including wakeboarding) for a living and use the 100 400 to the exclusion (almost) of all else. Check the website for shots http://www.memoriesink​.net (external link)

Watch out for the water drops from the board if you are close..it can confuse the heck out of the camera.

Good luck and feel free to email with any questions




  
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MarkH
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Nov 15, 2004 16:23 |  #25

If wider aperture is needed then a good choice is probably the Sigma 120-300 f2.8 EX, but you couldn't use it on anything that gets too close, and it is bigger and heavier, and it costs more. But goddamn I want one!


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defordphoto
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Nov 15, 2004 16:35 |  #26

lensmen wrote:
Did you have the IS mode ON while panning ?

RFMSports wrote:
commando wrote:
How did you guys get the cars so crisp and clear given they were probably moving pretty damned quickly? Especially you RFMSports. Did you just use a high shutter speed, or are there other tricks?

Panning. Practice, practice and much more practice.

The shutter speed was 1/250 on the top photo and I have shot much slower. It's awesome when you get it right on.

No. I rarely use IS.


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lensmen
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Nov 20, 2004 09:25 |  #27

That brings me to the IS thingy, now that my deal with the seller of the 100-400L has gone sour...

(he changed his mind last min and sell it to someone higher, without giving me the right of 1st refusal - afterall, I tested the lens and he wanted to think about selling)

Is the IS really that important.... granted that I had my fair share of mildly OOF pitures as a digi-newbie, would the IS resolved it ? Would having more practice reduce the chances of using IS.

Why am I asking it now ? Coz there are 2 choices available here, the 35-350L & the 100-400L. Ok, they are not fair apples vs orange thing, but if I had to priortize between an IS lens and non IS, with both about the same price...(used).... what should I really be thinging about ?

RFMSports wrote:
No. I rarely use IS.


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FlipsidE
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Nov 20, 2004 09:35 |  #28

I can't back this up with absolute fact, but I've read on the forums that IS really only makes a difference in low light situations. If you are taking pictures at mid day on a bright sunny day, I doubt IS would do anything for you.

But, at the same time I have heard that the 35-350L isn't as good of a lens as the 100-400L.

FlipsidE


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lensmen
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Nov 20, 2004 09:50 |  #29

Well, I am still trying to find out more about this L lens.

With the L mark, I supposed that it will deliver it's punch......

I am still sore about losing that 100-400L deal.... but that is just me....

have a nice weekend.


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Nov 20, 2004 09:52 |  #30

Forgot to add

As I have tested the 100-400 IS that eveing and true to what I was told to expect, activating the IS will eat 2 stops !!

The viewfinder will have the "drunken feeling" as you are aiming the lens... Just like after a few rounds to vodka neat.... Not complaining about this - just a curious observation....


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Is the 100-400L good for action shots?
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