From what it looks like, youve overdone the shadow/highlights command a bit. One good way of doing things Ive found is to get the picture looking 'nice' (noise, basic exposure, etc), then duplicate that layer and do all my local adjustments (changes that dont effect the entire picture) on that layer. I slightly overdo it, and then simply drop the opacity of that layer and everything looks good.
The whitewater in your shots is way too dark to be realistic, and the surfer is slightly to light where shadows should be.
But that stuff is all PP. In your actual shooting, youve done an awesome job. Good framing, great timing. And at the end of it, thats all that really matters.
