Full exposure

I have noticed some very useful sticky tutorials on this forum but nothing that really covers exposure in it's entirity.

I could write an advanced ambient light meter/exposure understanding article that would explain how to expose properly and give an understanding of how the different metering modes produce the results they do.

Exposure knowledge that would allow you to pick up any film camera (including any format be it 35mm or large format) and expose correctly first time. The ability to pre-visualise how the camera will expose a scene without having the advantage of chimping and studying the result of a histogram that digital gives you.

I understand exactly how Ansel adam's zone system works. His book "the negative" made the understanding exposure click for me.

So anyway the reason I am asking is because to write this article could be a lot of work for me and I want to know if many of you really would appreciate it.

So should I do it? Do you really want the knowledge and understanding that would allow you to come out of AV/TV/Auto mode to manual and spot meter and never want to go back?

Give me a reason to put the effort in

Oh and admin if I do decide to do it which forum would it be most appropriate to post it in?

I for one love reading about metering situations/techniques.​.. I still have to resort to the "trial and error" method of exposure sometimes. Any effort you put forth will be greatly appreciated.

If you could teach me that which you have in mind, I would be eternally grateful.

My being a neophyte at photography, 2 things have eluded me, exposure and composition.
Exposure is somewhat resolved by chimping and attention to the histogram display.

Sounds like it would be a positive addition to this forum. Many people would appreciate and gain knowledge from this article. If it gets stickied is up to the mods.

One thing you may want to look at is Ben's Newbie Guide. I don't think Ben is around much anymore (he has not added the third installment). You may be able to build upon what he has started.

This one & put a link in the Ben's Newbie Guide to Digital SLR Photography & -=Photography Tips and Tutorials List=- Stickys.

This might help:
Need an exposure crutch?
More on how the subject affects the exposure & why manual keeps me worry free: Post #47

PhotosGuy wrote in post #5455159
This one & put a link in the Ben's Newbie Guide to Digital SLR Photography & -=Photography Tips and Tutorials List=- Stickys.

Thanks I will start work on it when I can. Although I won't be covering the basic's such as Aperture/Shutter speed/ISO and the reader will need a good understanding of these and what dynamic range means (all of which have already been perfectly explained on here already) before hand. In other words this will be an advanced users guide and won't fit under the catagory of "beginners".

Of all the books and articles I have read I have never really seen any of them attempt to properly explain how metering works (apart from one ansel adam's book) probably because it's a real toughy to explain. I will really have to think about how to explain it myself. I will probably try to use the basic's of the zone system modified for media with much less dynaimc range. Most people are on the edge of understanding it but not quite there and hopefully I would be able to push them that last final step and make it all click into place.

Let's put it this way. No matter which metering mode I choose I can now truly say the camera will hold no suprises for me. I can now control the camera exactly how I choose and not vice versa

Now it's just finding the time

siejones wrote in post #5456734
Thanks I will start work on it when I can. Although I won't be covering the basic's such as Aperture/Shutter speed/ISO and the reader will need a good understanding of these and what dynamic range means (all of which have already been perfectly explained on here already) before hand. In other words this will be an advanced users guide and won't fit under the catagory of "beginners".

Of all the books and articles I have read I have never really seen any of them attempt to properly explain how metering works (apart from one ansel adam's book) probably because it's a real toughy to explain. I will really have to think about how to explain it myself. I will probably try to use the basic's of the zone system modified for media with much less dynaimc range. Most people are on the edge of understanding it but not quite there and hopefully I would be able to push them that last final step and make it all click into place.

Let's put it this way. No matter which metering mode I choose I can now truly say the camera will hold no suprises for me. I can now control the camera exactly how I choose and not vice versa

Now it's just finding the time

siejones,,,camera exposure meters measure what is called 18% Reflectance Grey..18% Reflectance Grey is a tone of grey that is reflected off the subject while 82% is absorbed..

Exposure is a reciprocal E = intensity X time where intensity is the aperture and time is the shutterspeed..If you change one value you must change the other to get the same value for E (exposure)

For example - 1/125th @ F/8 is the same as 1/250th @ F/5.6 or 1/60th @ F/11

A camera's TTL meter is a reflectance meter meaning it measures the light reflecting off the subject..Reflective meters can easily be fooled by backlighting, white or dark backgrounds and even strong coloured light sources ( a red spotlight for example )..For the most accurate metering meter with what is called an incident meter which measures the light falling on the subject..Most flash meters are incident meters..You have probably seen the photographer or assistant hold a handheld meter very near the subject,,this will most probably be an incident meter..

It all comes to experience when metering and I stress when you are metering a subject in difficult circumstances like backlighting use your camera on Manual..Fill the frame with the subject, meter the subject and take an exposure reading..Skin tones are pretty much in the ball park but naturally will vary, grass is also good.. Bracket your exposure either side is a good idea if you want that "perfect" exposure..

That was very useful for sheet film, but now we have RAW which works pretty well and eliminates the need for "measurebating", doesn't it?

What I, as a neophyte, would like to see, is a downloadable calculator (like DOF Master).
Ya plug in a couple of values and it coughs out the appropriate numbers.

Once you get a starting point your brain can do that.

Example once you have starting point say 1/125 at f8 you know that you will get the same exposure at 1/60 at f11, 1/30 f16, 1/250 at 5.6 1/500 at 5.6 etc.

Now its up to you to decide what DoF and shutter speeds are important to your visual statement.

When you expose what is important (high light or shadow)

The basics of the zone system and a good working knowledge of those basics can be very useful because just like in the days of film you can do SO much more with a properly exposed image.

siejones wrote in post #5454831
Exposure knowledge that would allow you to pick up any film camera (including any format be it 35mm or large format) and expose correctly first time. The ability to pre-visualise how the camera will expose a scene without having the advantage of chimping and studying the result of a histogram that digital gives you.

I'm curious as to why you say "...allow you to pick up any film camera..." If your tutorial actually only relates to film, it may have limited value here?

Dave

If you can expose film properly and can pre visualize a scene you can surely do it with digital because its the same principles. Why do you think most college photography programs start you with film? It is relevant. Good exposure is good exposure.

airfrogusmc wrote in post #5458302
If you can expose film properly and can pre visualize a scene you can surely do it with digital because its the same principles. Why do you think most college photography programs start you with film? It is relevant. Good exposure is good exposure.

Exactly my thought, which is why I asked the question...

Dave

airfrogusmc wrote in post #5458302
If you can expose film properly and can pre visualize a scene you can surely do it with digital because its the same principles. Why do you think most college photography programs start you with film? It is relevant. Good exposure is good exposure.

.... and when working with film, you don't have the opportunity to "cheat". You are stuck with your results, making the first shot count much more than with digital.

SkipD wrote in post #5458379
.... and when working with film, you don't have the opportunity to "cheat". You are stuck with your results, making the first shot count much more than with digital.

Exactly. And then you have to put the time in to process the film you are INVESTED. Now if you've make a mistake you will be able to see how it effects the end result and because of the investment it means something to you and if you have made a mistake or if you've done things right you will remember it more than if you would have just pushed delete or protect.