How to use a grad ND filter?

I just ordered a Singh Ray 3 stop soft graduated ND filter. I heard that there is a certain technique to using it properly. I read where you can focus/meter and then slide the filter down into place. I heard that it can be difficult to tell where the transition is when looking through the view finder. I am sure that trial and error will be needed. But, I am going to Seward, Alaska on May 22 and just ordered the filter last night. The opportunity to go on this trip came up on me with short notice. I will have about ten days to figure it out. Would anyone be willing to share any tips on how to use graduated ND's? I have a Canon 40D with 10-22, 24-105, and 100-400. I have a Hoya Pro 1 CP. Is it common to use the CP with the graduated ND's? Any thoughts greatly appreciated.

With a soft ND grad the placement is less critical than with a hard grad - although this sometimes causes problems as the brightest part of the sky can be just above the horizon. Don't be constricted to placing the graduation parallel to the horizon - tilt it if that is necessary to balance the light properly.

As far as metering goes, if you are using TTL, then meter after the filter is in place. It is still a good idea to bracket your exposures.

As for the CP - yeah, I use it all the time with the grads. Just be aware of vignetting with the 10-22. I have the Lee wide angle setup and don't get vignetting with just the CP and 1 filter - use any more and you might.

Just play with it a bit - its not difficult.

Typically, with a GND you need to meter before putting the filter in place. Meter for the highlights and then meter for the foreground. The difference in stops tells you the strength of the filter that you'll need to use.

Depending on the time of day, it can be difficult to make out the transition line. Here's a trick that works: once you have the scene metered and the filter in place, stop the lens down to about f/16 or f/22 and depress the DOF preview button. This should allow you see the gradient line. If necessary, adjust the filter. Once you're satisfied with the filter position, re-set the aperture to the proper setting and fire away. You can use the CP in conjunction with the GND...just remember that it will subtract about 1-2 stops of light from the scene.

Great insights here. I really appreciate you taking the time to share. I had not thought of using the CP with the graduated ND's until just recently when I first read about it. Is there any difference in how I use the ND when using the CP. Or is it just the 1-2 stop difference? Thanks for any thoughts!

DANATTHEROCK wrote in post #5458805
Great insights here. I really appreciate you taking the time to share. I had not thought of using the CP with the graduated ND's until just recently when I first read about it. Is there any difference in how I use the ND when using the CP. Or is it just the 1-2 stop difference? Thanks for any thoughts!

No...once you're properly metered with the GND, your camera's TTL metering system should automatically compensate for the CPL filter, assuming that you're in Aperture priority mode. If you're in Manual mode, you'd need to make the adjustment by slowing your shutter speed in order to keep your DOF as initially set. This is assuming that your CPL is in front of the GND.

If your setup has the CPL mounted to the lens, and the GND on top of that, try this:

1.) Adjust your CPL so you get the look that you're after
2.) With the CPL in place, meter the foreground and background to determine the difference in stops
3.) Select the appropriate GND

With this setup, it may be harder to "see" the gradient line in your viewfinder since the CPL will be affecting the amount of light that's reaching the sensor. Like exile has already mentioned, its not that difficult once you've tried it a few times. Practice a bit, and it'll become second nature to you.

All that being said, its always a good practice to bracket your shots anyway, and keep an eye on the histogram.

Thanks for the info! I do shoot in Av mode and will have the Hoya Pro 1 DMC on the lens with the filter after it. I will be sure to practice what you say here. As far as exposure bracketing goes, would a +1 and -1 be about right? I have not used the exposure bracketing before but can certainly see the benefit in doing so. I just started shooting in RAW. Perhaps that will help some if I am off a bit. Any thoughts, let me know. I appreciate all the help I am getting here!

Got my Singh Ray "P" size three stop soft grad nd today. I ordered the Cokin holder. At $20, I could not help myself. I was amazed at the difference the filter made. I am still not sure I am doing it correctly, so I will have to try some trial and error. Not sure about "metering the foreground, then the highlights" part earlier. When I meter the foreground, do I need to hold the shutter half way down to keep that metering? Then slide the filter down where I want it. Seems hard to hold the button down, then recompose back up, and slide the filter down. Perhaps I have taken something out of context. Anyway, below are two images from a beach here on Nantucket, Mass. The first shot is RAW captured straight from the camera. No filter used, no pp. The second image was using the grad nd and was pp in Photoshop Elements 6.0. Taken only seconds apart, it is hard to believe by looking at the end result. While I have lots to learn, I am amazed at what the grad nd (along with some brief processing) did to the image. The below Flickr link is of the "Before and after".

http://www.flickr.com …2/sets/72157604​922316549/

I forgot to say, if you are not familiar with Flickr, when the link opens, select "slideshow" in the upper right and you can toggle between the two images easily.

In your flickr shot I think the sky is too dark, maybe underexpose the foreground a little, maybe by 1 or 2 stops.

Take a read through here also, the last few posts at the end, #127 and on, have some better samples in them:

https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=315987

Rammy,

Thanks for the great info. Lots of insight in that link.

I still am unsure of how to properly meter the foreground. I shoot in Av mode. Do I need to meter the foreground and continue to hold the shutter half way down to keep the settings? It seems hard to do that and then recompose (aim up higher) and then slide the grad in place. I am new to photography, so if this sounds stupid I apologize. I am just not sure how this is done. Yesterday (my first try with grad nd) I composed the way I wanted with the tripod, then slid the grad nd down where I could see it have an effect, then shot. I can see now that I was most likely not metering the foreground in doing so. I would appreciate any info on how to do this (talk to me like a child so I will get it). Ha ha.

Do I use "Exposure lock". Just read about it in a tutorial here. Not sure how to use it, but is this how I meter the foreground, then recompose and keep those readings? I am sure that I am making this more complicated than it should be. But I am going to Alaska (Kenai Peninsula) in less than two weeks. Help!

DANATTHEROCK wrote in post #5477805
I still am unsure of how to properly meter the foreground.

I shoot in Av mode.

First of all metering, use spot metering if you want, I do. If your camera does not have that then try partial. Aim down and point the centre of the viewer at the most "average area" of the scene. If there is no average area then meter the brightest and darkest part, see how much the shutter speed changes and then average it yourself. You can average the shutter speed or the number of stops if you know how. Then use the dial near the shutter button to apply Exposure Compensation, if you need to.

Alternatively, and probably easier try M (manual) mode: What is the aperture you are setting it to and what is the shutter speed the camera is picking? Lets say the aperture you choose is F/8 and the shutter speed settles at 1/125. Well, now move the command dial to M for manual and preset the aperture to F/8 and the shutter speed to 1/125. Then, when you move, the settings remain as they are.

It is quite a simple step from AV to manual. For Depth Of Field on landscapes (front to back sharpness) you want F/8 or F/11, then you just need to change the shutter speed until the meter in the viewfinder places the mark in the middle of the grid:

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DANATTHEROCK wrote in post #5477874
Do I use "Exposure lock". Just read about it in a tutorial here. Not sure how to use it, but is this how I meter the foreground, then recompose and keep those readings? I am sure that I am making this more complicated than it should be. But I am going to Alaska (Kenai Peninsula) in less than two weeks. Help!

Yes, you can use this too. Point the camera down to get it to meter then press the exposure lock button, recompose and you can then place the filter and shoot. The exposure resets when you trip the shutter so you have to lock it each time. Manual is easier

Trying using Manual for your landscape shots and AV for all your other shots, You'll soon learn and get comfortable with M mode.

Thank you so much for the descriptive explanation. It makes much more sense now. I will get out tomorrow and apply some of what you have told me here. Thanks for your time.

DANATTHEROCK wrote in post #5480865
Thank you so much for the descriptive explanation. It makes much more sense now. I will get out tomorrow and apply some of what you have told me here. Thanks for your time.

You're very much welcome. If you can't get the shutter speed for hand holding then don't worry about bumping up the ISO if you need to. Tripod for landscapes is best but can't do that all the time, as you may not have it with you.

In darker areas, such as woodland or places in shadow, you may want to compromise with the GND. Personally, I would push the ISO to 400, maybe 800 and do a burst set of shots trying to keep myself stable. Noise reduction in PP can then be applied if needs be.

Once you get a hang of the GND and getting to grips to the technical parts of photography, you can look to move on to even more such as hyperfocal distance

Have fun!