Help! My eyes.

Well the studio work is getting better. But I seem to always be disappointed with the eyes. I want the pupils to be smaller.

I have AB400's which has plenty of light for my indoor studio. I use the light in track mode (meaning the lamp tracks the setting). I'm thinking that I should start setup with track then set it to max for the shoot.

I haven't tried this yet. But I am thinking maybe I am missing something else.

Example

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Perzactly.

Pupil size...another reason for using strobes with 250w modelling lights.

Wilt wrote in post #5471414
Pupil size...another reason for using strobes with 250w modelling lights.

Oh! I think mine are 100w. Didn't think of that. Does everyone use 250w?

davidfig wrote in post #5471602
Oh! I think mine are 100w. Didn't think of that. Does everyone use 250w?

No one using AB can use any more than 150w bulbs, as the units are not designed to dissipate the internal heat flowing into the flash unit from the high wattage bulb.

Strobes aimed for professionals (rather than hobbyists) generally have 250-300w modelling lamps. That way you can turn down the modelling lamp and they are still outputting a lot of light even when turned down.

i use a 7 led flashlight to shrink teh pupils lol

Wilt wrote in post #5471666
No one using AB can use any more than 150w bulbs, as the units are not designed to dissipate the internal heat flowing into the flash unit from the high wattage bulb.

I use 250w halogens in my Alienbees.

Their website says you can, as long as you're careful about heat build-up. Since I'm using umbrellas, it's not an issue. If I were using softboxes, snoots or grids, well that's another story.

But keep in mind that a 250w bulb at 1/2 power will generate less heat than a 150w bulb at full power. Common sense needs to be part of the equation.

Curtis N wrote in post #5472923
I use 250w halogens in my Alienbees.

Their website says you can, as long as you're careful about heat build-up. Since I'm using umbrellas, it's not an issue. If I were using softboxes, snoots or grids, well that's another story.

But keep in mind that a 250w bulb at 1/2 power will generate less heat than a 150w bulb at full power. Common sense needs to be part of the equation.

I hope the fire department is nearby!

Curtis N wrote in post #5472923
If I were using softboxes, snoots or grids, well that's another story.

But keep in mind that a 250w bulb at 1/2 power will generate less heat than a 150w bulb at full power. Common sense needs to be part of the equation.

I have softboxes. So I'll first try the max on and then find a way to vent the softboxes. Thanks all.

David,

Be VERY careful when doing this.

Paul Buff is very specific about how to use the higher wattage bulbs and whether you can vent a softbox (losing light as well) or not does not sound like a good idea.

As Curtis pointed out, with open umbrellas or firing behind diffusion panels you're fine with higher wattage but not in any enclosed lightbox.

I have 200 on my White Lingtning 1200s. Those are what they came with. I shoot with softboxes all the time (20 years +) and have never had any problems.

airfrogusmc wrote in post #5474639
I have 200 on my White Lingtning 1200s. Those are what they came with. I shoot with softboxes all the time (20 years +) and have never had any problems.

Yes WL is more expensive than AB for a reason!