danielyamseng wrote in post #5477297
let say if I used Manual output flash, then I've have to do few times preshoots 'coze now the compensation is manually done ,right?
If yes is there anyway to calculate the right amount of flash output?
What camera are you using? If you have a 1D series camera, you can use the built-in meter to determine what to set your flash to manually.
If not, and this will work with any camera, if you have the flash mounted on the camera and pointed straight ahead (not in bounce position), the flash will indicate the optimal distance of the flash, displayed on the flash LCD, for the power level set on the flash and the ISO and aperture set on the camera (you'll need to half press the shutter button to get the distance to display). You can use this distance compared to the actual flash-to-subject distance to determine how much more or less power you'll need to set the flash at or what ISO and/or aperture to set the camera at. What you would do is adjust the power level, ISO and/or the aperture until the distance displayed matches the flash-to-subject distance.
Once you get the setting into the ballpark, you can then take a test shot and look at your histogram and the picture to see if you need to make further adjustments.
If you want to use the flash off-camera or in the bounce position, you can use the above to get to a starting point and then work it from there.
danielyamseng wrote in post #5477297
If I lock the exposure (FEL) then the shoot will be a bit overexpose.
Is this effect is due to the 580EX tried to compensate the subject unless we lock the exposure?
The result you get by using the FEL will depend on what or where you point the circle in the middle of the viewfinder. If whatever is there is very dark, your picture will be overexposed. If it is very bright, the picture will be underexposed. The idea is to point the circle at an area which is neutral in tone (near mid-gray) to get a good flash exposure.