Max Sync Speed of d-lite 2 & 4?

bobbyz wrote in post #5493054
Just for reference, I have no problem using 1/320 with my ABs. I have tried both 30d and 1dmk2 and I don't get any black bars. Anything higher and the black bars start appearing at the bottom of the frame.

Since I don't shoot my ABs at very low powers, I don't see color variations from shot to shot.

In the end I think both are nice starting lights, just buy what you feel comfortable with it.

Hi bobby. For some reason, when I had Bees and was shooting a Canon 30D I could never get higher than 1/200 with consistency. That was wired or using Pocket Wizards. I wish I understood why there is so much variation.

TMR Design wrote in post #5493075
Hi bobby. For some reason, when I had Bees and was shooting a Canon 30D I could never get higher than 1/200 with consistency. That was wired or using Pocket Wizards. I wish I understood why there is so much variation.

Robert, I was using the regular sync cord. I did the test after hearing from another member on FM board (I think) that his bees would work fine at 1/320. I use 1/250 all the time, never had any issues. When I tried 1/320, it worked all the time on both 30d and 1dmk2.

I did a shoot on Saturday using D Lite 4s, triggered by Skyports on my 400D and no sign of problems at 1/200. The power settings were below half at all times.

martinsmith wrote in post #5640975
I did a shoot on Saturday using D Lite 4s, triggered by Skyports on my 400D and no sign of problems at 1/200. The power settings were below half at all times.

Yes but what was your background like? At 1/200 you can generally get a way with it because only the slightest hint of shutter curtain is in frame and unless you're shooting on a light and solid color you'll almost never see it. I do believe that if you tested it in a controlled situation with a gray or white background you would see the hint of curtain at 1/200.

I'm kinda amused that everyone is so surprised that the sync speed is somewhat slower with studio strobes! That has been the case with studio strobes ever since I started using them (ahemm... a few years ago ). Run-of-the-mill studio strobes do not NEED to sync at high speeds, and if you do need to sync at your highest camera sync speed, you have to pay for better strobes. It is very hard to synchronize strobes with a camera shutter (mainly because the differences between cameras, even if it is the exact same model, are quite large - the tolerances are somewhat "loose" when put into context of the extreme accuracy that you have to achieve to actually sync the strobes to the miniscule amount of time that the shutter is actually open).

Anyway, not an issue IMO...

We were using a white background. Would the 1.6 crop be the reason I'm not seeing it?

I'll get hold of the lights again and do a test at the weekend to see exactly when it appears.

Martin,
The shots in this thread should give you an idea what to look for.

The darker area at the bottom of the frame shows up best when the background is bright but not blown out.

It will be a gradually shaded area, not a definite black line unless you go past your camera's X-sync speed. This is because the flash is still firing when the shutter begins to close.

Rudi wrote in post #5641028
Anyway, not an issue IMO...

yeah not an issue

Thanks Curtis

The background was blown out on the shoot so that may be why I'm not seeing it. I was also looking for a black bar, but I see that it's just a slight shading.

I shall test and see where I can safely shoot.

I shoot at 1/160th so I don't ever have to worry about it.

I don't believe that anyone had made it an issue but depending on what you're shooting and in what light it certainly could be.

I think there are many (like myself) that like to know the specifications and test for limitations in any piece of gear and strobe lighting is no different. If we understand the gear, how it performs and where the limitations lie, it gives us information and insight so we're able to better use or appropriately replace the tools we use.

I fully agree with you, Robert. What I was referring to were all the people that seemed really surprised that a studio strobe wouldn't sync at their camera's highest sync speed. That has always been the case with most studio strobes, and if you read your camera's Owner's Manual, it may even state a lower sync speed for studio flashes. That's just the way it is, and you either work around that limitation or buy stuff that does what you want (or buy a flux capacitor, I hear they can do amazing things! ).

Rudi wrote in post #5650039
I fully agree with you, Robert. What I was referring to were all the people that seemed really surprised that a studio strobe wouldn't sync at their camera's highest sync speed. That has always been the case with most studio strobes, and if you read your camera's Owner's Manual, it may even state a lower sync speed for studio flashes. That's just the way it is, and you either work around that limitation or buy stuff that does what you want (or buy a flux capacitor, I hear they can do amazing things! ).

Canon's manual says 1/60, but that's not acceptable.

Village_Idiot wrote in post #5657278
Canon's manual says 1/60, but that's not acceptable.

Yes, but that is WITHOUT the flux capacitor!

Village_Idiot wrote in post #5657278
Canon's manual says 1/60, but that's not acceptable.

Which manual? The 20D and 30D manuals say 1/125 with "large studio flash".