Max Sync Speed of d-lite 2 & 4?

gabivali wrote in post #6096629
btw your D70 will go as fast as 1/500 if I well remember

That's a very moot point considering he can't even sync his strobe at 1/250!

gabivali, you're confusing max sync speed with flash duration. They call it SYNC speed for a reason, it's the shortest shutter speed that will SYNCHRONIZE with the flash to properly expose the whole frame. Flash duration has nothing to do with it. Yes, you can leave the shutter open and the flash will expose the picture at whatever the flash duration is, you're correct about that. But that has nothing to do with sync speed! The two are completely different things.

and never mind experimenting better just read forums

Lets not confuse the issue. The D70 has an electronic shutter and is not subject to any of the variables and mechanics that a standard shutter mechanism uses.

Again, you are misleading others and trying to skew things you way.

gabivali wrote in post #6096648
and never mind experimenting better just read forums

I've DONE the experiments, and I have been shooting for nearly 30 years. Read my post above or choose to believe whatever you want, but don't spread misinformation just because you choose to stay ignorant of the facts!

gabivali wrote in post #6096648
and never mind experimenting better just read forums

You still won't tell us the source of your information and if you're going to be so bold and insistent then prove your point with some facts and evidence.

TMR Design wrote in post #5481736
As many of us have tested and discovered, regardless of the max sync speed of your camera or radio triggers, the Elinchrom D-Lites will not sync faster than 1/160s without showing the first signs of shutter curtain in the frame.

is not a synchronization problem when you get the curtain in the shot but the speed of the curtains themselves witch is the x-sync speed so no matter what lights units you'll have the curtain will still be there IF you shoot faster then the x-sync speed and of course as long as you have the mechanical shutter as most dslr have

as far as me doing test for you I don't see the point but ....I can make you as many shots you want by tomorrow. I'm curios thou how would you know what studio strobe's I used? and btw my x-sync wold be 1/250 so I can squeeze in shots with 1/320 and not really see the curtain in the shots... any way if you want more opinions :

http://forums.dpreview​.com …rum=1021&messag​e=28467008

good night

No thanks man. You're alone on this one. I'm not going to play along but one thing to know about this forum.. if you're going to profess to know something and you want others to believe you or take you seriously then back it up and demonstrate. Many people here like myself always make a point to demonstrate ideas and conclusions. I never just take someone at their word and I encourage others not to do so.

I will not continue this absurd discussion with you. Don't you find it strange that everyone chiming in on this one disagrees with you. I guess we are all wrong and need to go back and relearn how all our gear really works.

I encourage others to ignore the misinformation given here by gabivali. He has distorted and confused fact and is trying to introduce a concept that no one else on the planet recognizes.

Good night gabivali.

I'd leave it alone now, Robert. The guy sounds like a troll...

gabivali wrote in post #6096760
is not a synchronization problem when you get the curtain in the shot but the speed of the curtains themselves witch is the x-sync speed so no matter what lights units you'll have the curtain will still be there IF you shoot faster then the x-sync speed and of course as long as you have the mechanical shutter as most dslr have

as far as me doing test for you I don't see the point but ....I can make you as many shots you want by tomorrow. I'm curios thou how would you know what studio strobe's I used? and btw my x-sync wold be 1/250 so I can squeeze in shots with 1/320 and not really see the curtain in the shots... any way if you want more opinions :

http://forums.dpreview​.com …rum=1021&messag​e=28467008

good night

That's the whole point of this thread, isn't it. We're talking about the max sync speed of D-Lite strobe, not just any strobe you happen to have. I personally have no issue syncing at any shutter speed at or below max sync speed of my camera with my strobes. But they're not D-Lites strobes. Do you have a D-Lite strobe?

Rudi wrote in post #6096836
I'd leave it alone now, Robert. The guy sounds like a troll...

I could be wrong but I won't say he's a troll, not just yet. Maybe just someone who's not fully informed. I can see where he's coming from with what hes' saying but he needs to look passed that and open his mind to what the others have been trying to tell him. Hopefully, then a light bulb will go off in his head.

gabivali wrote in post #6096595
ok. try this.
set your camera at the same f stop and change just the shutter speed and you'll see that the actual images will be the same as long as the shutter is not faster then the x-sync speed.

why? Because the light source will still be the same so that is why the "shutter speed" in this case is = with the flash duration ...

I see what he's saying here and if I'm interperating correctly, he's saying the the flash duration is what freezes the action and that as long as the camera's shutter speed is lower that the x sync, that the shutter speed won't determine how the subject is "frozen".

My biggest concern though was not of flash duration, but of being able to at least sync with the camera's rated x sync to kill as much ambient as possible, especially when shooting outside. That's something that people were claiming to have problems with.

Village_Idiot wrote in post #6106560
I see what he's saying here and if I'm interperating correctly, he's saying the the flash duration is what freezes the action and that as long as the camera's shutter speed is lower that the x sync, that the shutter speed won't determine how the subject is "frozen".

I don't think anybody was disputing this point.

Village_Idiot wrote in post #6106560
My biggest concern though was not of flash duration, but of being able to at least sync with the camera's rated x sync to kill as much ambient as possible, especially when shooting outside. That's something that people were claiming to have problems with.

This is the point Gabivali was not quite getting no matter how many people tried to point that out to him.

Mm-ok, let me try to explain it to gabivali in his terms.

You're right that average flash duration on D-lites is 1/800th. So in total darkness and shutter of 1/30+ you'll see 1/800th exposure. Good.

Now, the root question here is - how long does it take for a flash to start firing flash from the time it receives the signal from cable/radio? If it's less than 1/375 then you can sync at 1/250 shutter (meaning 1/375+1/750 < 1/250, so you get full falsh exposure before shutter starts closing), if it's say 1/300, you're screwed, as your flash will still not be at peak, but shutter will start closing.

I don't have any experience with the D-lite, so correct me if I am wrong. From reading the responces on this thread, seems to me that the D-lite's internal digital control and sync circuits adds delay on top of the max camera sync speed. Do doesn't matter if the D-lite's flash duration is 1/2000, if it's own circuit adds 1/500 delay to the sync speed, we will not be able to get to the max 1/250. (I don't know how to do the math to get that 1/160.)