Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8

If you were to view @ 100% crop at the blades of grass on the foreground... how do they look? They seem rather sharp-ish resized. If the foreground grass is sharp, then that means the camera was focusing on the foreground. And if that's the case and if you expect 100 yds worth of DoF @ f/2.8, you have a gross misunderstanding of optics and exposure setting.

I want to say this in the least offensive way possible... but "you've got a pixel-peeping problem."

here is another set. by the way, my kit lens 18-135, performed much, much better at 18mm, i understand that there is a big difference between tokinas 11mm and 18 mm, but still, i'm concerned. please help me out.

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jwcdds wrote in post #12912636
If you were to view @ 100% crop at the blades of grass on the foreground... how do they look? They seem rather sharp-ish resized. If the foreground grass is sharp, then that means the camera was focusing on the foreground. And if that's the case and if you expect 100 yds worth of DoF @ f/2.8, you have a gross misunderstanding of optics and exposure setting.

I want to say this in the least offensive way possible... but "you've got a pixel-peeping problem."

forgot to mention. both photos are shot at f8. the focus was on the boat. used tripod and manual focus point election. plus took care to check the focus distance on the lens focus distance screen

How are you ensuring focus was on the boat? That little kayak is so tiny and doesn't provide sufficient contrast at all to focus on. Were you using live view and manual focusing at 10x zoom?

2nd photo, again, looks like the blades of grass in the foreground are sharper than anything beyond. And since you've "attached" the photo onto POTN, there are no EXIF for me to read off of so I can't see where the lens focused (distance wise).

I agree with jwcdds, it's too hard to tell what the problem is, if any, with those shots.

damn, i need to use mine a bit more

jwcdds wrote in post #12912932
How are you ensuring focus was on the boat? That little kayak is so tiny and doesn't provide sufficient contrast at all to focus on. Were you using live view and manual focusing at 10x zoom?

2nd photo, again, looks like the blades of grass in the foreground are sharper than anything beyond. And since you've "attached" the photo onto POTN, there are no EXIF for me to read off of so I can't see where the lens focused (distance wise).

the info of the second photo:
Camera Canon 60D
f8@ 1/80
Iso-200
Exp +1.3
Focal length 11mm
Focus - manual point selection
Subject Distance - 600mm (60 CM)
Program - Aperture priority
White balance - Auto

I tried to use my kit lens with the same settings and composition of the first example. Came out much better even when i shot it handheld. Grass looked much sharper and the light house in the back was more vivid.
Thanks for your reply, hope this will help you helping me

vanvar07 wrote in post #12914426
the info of the second photo:
Camera Canon 60D
f8@ 1/80
Iso-200
Exp +1.3
Focal length 11mm
Focus - manual point selection
Subject Distance - 600mm (60 CM)
Program - Aperture priority
White balance - Auto

I tried to use my kit lens with the same settings and composition of the first example. Came out much better even when i shot it handheld. Grass looked much sharper and the light house in the back was more vivid.
Thanks for your reply, hope this will help you helping me

I bolded part of your response. You do realize, subject distance @ 60cm... is... like... 2.5 feet in front of the camera?

Anything beyond 2.5 feet, (which is everything else in your landscape photo), will be out of focus.

jwcdds wrote in post #12914440
I bolded part of your response. You do realize, subject distance @ 60cm... is... like... 2.5 feet in front of the camera?

Anything beyond 2.5 feet, (which is everything else in your landscape photo), will be out of focus.

Actually 11mm @f/8 and focus point at 60 cm will translate to about 2.3m (7 feet) far limit and about 0.35m (1.15 feet) near limit. So no surprise that most of the picture is out of focus. You should select a focus point (or manually focus) at 1m, which will give you DoF from 0.45m to infinity. On top of that you should use a higher shutter speed to freeze any motion of the yellow flowers caused by wind. They were quite close, so even a slight shake caused by the air movement will blur them at 1/80s.

the focus was intentionally on the flowers, to show how bad they came out. but maybe it is the fault of 1/80. dont know.

vanvar07 wrote in post #12916463
the focus was intentionally on the flowers, to show how bad they came out. but maybe it is the fault of 1/80. dont know.

So how are you focusing on the flower? You're not using the center AF point since the flower is not dead center in the image. Are you selecting the AF point yourself?

I think you may have mentioned that you manual focused instead. If that's the case, were you in live-view and zoomed in to manual focus?

If you're getting absolutely zero sharp photos/keepers (with reasonable shutterspeeds like 1/250 or faster), then sure, you might have a lemon of a lens. But at this time, it doesn't seem like everything is adding up.

Scapevision wrote in post #12914219
damn, i need to use mine a bit more

True.

vanvar07 wrote in post #12914426
the info of the second photo:
Camera Canon 60D
f8@ 1/80
Iso-200
Exp +1.3
Focal length 11mm
Focus - manual point selection
Subject Distance - 600mm (60 CM)
Program - Aperture priority
White balance - Auto

I tried to use my kit lens with the same settings and composition of the first example. Came out much better even when i shot it handheld. Grass looked much sharper and the light house in the back was more vivid.
Thanks for your reply, hope this will help you helping me

Do you have any filter on the lens?