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Thread started 12 May 2008 (Monday) 20:33
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Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8

 
azpix
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Nov 20, 2009 23:24 |  #961

joosay........great lighting on those.


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joosay
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Nov 20, 2009 23:43 |  #962

thanks :) finally experimenting with OCF ...and it's addicting!


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ride5000
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Nov 21, 2009 07:18 |  #963

yes. well done! particularly blending the ambient vs. flash light..


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p4olom
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Nov 25, 2009 11:50 |  #964

IMAGE: http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2535/4132215345_ec7e0a3018_b.jpg
:)

7D

  
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303villain
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Nov 25, 2009 22:22 |  #965

sweet fixie! Black on white is such a good combo.


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p4olom
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Nov 26, 2009 02:31 |  #966

Thank you! :D


7D

  
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FrostQ
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Nov 30, 2009 20:44 as a reply to  @ p4olom's post |  #967

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ckfishel2001
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Nov 30, 2009 21:02 |  #968

FrostQ wrote in post #9111406 (external link)
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Those shots are dare I say...magical:)


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TreInJapan
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Dec 01, 2009 21:33 |  #969

Hey guys! I got an 11-16 the other day and have been playing around with it a bit. I haven't had a good chance to play with it outside or with big scenery (which is probably the best place for this lens), but I'm having trouble really capturing things well. If I have it on 2.8, it usually is only focused on one point or a couple of points, and can't capture the whole picture sharply. I've toyed with single-point or auto-point selection, but I can't seem to get it right. I've also played with OneShot and Servo and stuff, but I think it has more to do with the single-point/auto-point thing. How do I capture a big subject, wide-open and have it all in focus?




  
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FrostQ
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Dec 02, 2009 07:37 |  #970

TreInJapan wrote in post #9118314 (external link)
Hey guys! I got an 11-16 the other day and have been playing around with it a bit. I haven't had a good chance to play with it outside or with big scenery (which is probably the best place for this lens), but I'm having trouble really capturing things well. If I have it on 2.8, it usually is only focused on one point or a couple of points, and can't capture the whole picture sharply. I've toyed with single-point or auto-point selection, but I can't seem to get it right. I've also played with OneShot and Servo and stuff, but I think it has more to do with the single-point/auto-point thing. How do I capture a big subject, wide-open and have it all in focus?

stop it down at f/4.0 or higher if you want a deeper DOF


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TreInJapan
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Dec 02, 2009 07:41 |  #971

FrostQ wrote in post #9120172 (external link)
stop it down at f/4.0 or higher if you want a deeper DOF

But so many of these pictures were taken at 2.8 and they're all in focus@!

A sample from another member (at 2.8 ) for example:

IMAGE: http://www.lastshotphotography.com/img/v3/p890154705-4.jpg



  
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msowsun
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Dec 02, 2009 08:15 |  #972

TreInJapan wrote in post #9118314 (external link)
I'm having trouble really capturing things well. If I have it on 2.8, it usually is only focused on one point or a couple of points, and can't capture the whole picture sharply.

I think I read somewhere that Ultra Wide Angle lenses are more prone to focus problems due to "Curvature of Field". This is more pronounced at closer focus distances and with faster apertures like f/2.8 due to less depth of field.

An example would be a flat surface like a wall. It is impossible to have the entire wall in focus.

But at longer focus distances the extra depth of field of the wide angle makes up for it.

Is that not correct?

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SMP_Homer
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Dec 02, 2009 10:24 |  #973

FrostQ wrote in post #9120172 (external link)
stop it down at f/4.0 or higher if you want a deeper DOF

LOL
you don't really have to worry about DOF when you're shooting this wide!

rough calculations/memory stuff, so I may be off a little, but I'm sure I'm close:

If you're at 11mm/2.8, focused on something that's 6 feet away from you, your DOF starts around 3 feet from your sensor, to somewhere just shy of 30 feet from your sensor
Same scenario, but add 2 feet (8 feet sensor to subject), then everything from 4 feet out to infinity is your DOF

DOF on a wide lens can almost be forgotten about - it can be really difficult to blur out the background, even at 2.8!


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FrostQ
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Dec 02, 2009 12:48 |  #974

I guess you learn something new everyday...thanks for clarifying:p

SMP_Homer wrote in post #9120895 (external link)
LOL
you don't really have to worry about DOF when you're shooting this wide!

rough calculations/memory stuff, so I may be off a little, but I'm sure I'm close:

If you're at 11mm/2.8, focused on something that's 6 feet away from you, your DOF starts around 3 feet from your sensor, to somewhere just shy of 30 feet from your sensor
Same scenario, but add 2 feet (8 feet sensor to subject), then everything from 4 feet out to infinity is your DOF

DOF on a wide lens can almost be forgotten about - it can be really difficult to blur out the background, even at 2.8!


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TreInJapan
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Dec 02, 2009 17:48 |  #975

SMP_Homer wrote in post #9120895 (external link)
LOL
you don't really have to worry about DOF when you're shooting this wide!

rough calculations/memory stuff, so I may be off a little, but I'm sure I'm close:

If you're at 11mm/2.8, focused on something that's 6 feet away from you, your DOF starts around 3 feet from your sensor, to somewhere just shy of 30 feet from your sensor
Same scenario, but add 2 feet (8 feet sensor to subject), then everything from 4 feet out to infinity is your DOF

DOF on a wide lens can almost be forgotten about - it can be really difficult to blur out the background, even at 2.8!

Homer, thanks for the input. BTW, that's a huge list of nice lenses you have :D

So in the example posted above, if the photographer was far enough away, it wouldn't matter where he was focusing, right? Because the whole object is within that depth of field/focus?




  
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Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8
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