STROBES...Max Shutter Sync

What is the Max shutter sync for studio strobes???

Depends on camera, strobe and triggering method used.
Mostly somewhere in the 1/60 to 1/250s range.

I am using the 30D in Manual triggering with the 580EX...also in manual.

Matt30D wrote in post #5515602
I am using the 30D in Manual triggering with the 580EX...also in manual.

max sync for the 30D is 1/250. using wireless triggers you can still get 1/250, but it could be sketchy at times.... I usually shoot @ 1/160 just to be on the safe side, unless I need the extra SS to stop down the ambient light.

Matt30D wrote in post #5515602
I am using the 30D in Manual triggering with the 580EX...also in manual.

By that I'm assuming you're triggering the strobes via their built-in optical slaves, using the 580EX as the master/triggering device. Usually you won't have a problem at 1/250.

But some strobes such as the Elinchrom D-Lites have a relatively long flash duration, which will require you to slow down the shutter a little bit, to make sure the strobe is done firing before the second shutter curtain begins to close.

With studio strobes, the flash duration is actually longer at low power settings (the opposite of hotshoe flash units). So a shutter speed that works ok at full power may be a bit too fast at 1/32 power.

Curtis N wrote in post #5515742
With studio strobes, the flash duration is actually longer at low power settings (the opposite of hotshoe flash units). So a shutter speed that works ok at full power may be a bit too fast at 1/32 power.

Eeehm.. What?
Not any studio strobe I've used... Lower power setting = shorter flash duration.

From here: "Even at full power (1200J) the flash discharge lasts no longer than 1/500 second at t.0.1, 1/1500s when measured at t.0.5. When set to 300J the flash duration drops to 1/1200s when measured at t.0.1 and 1/3500s at t 0.5"

René Damkot wrote in post #5515831
Eeehm.. What?
Not any studio strobe I've used... Lower power setting = shorter flash duration.

Yes, I agree. It depends on the design of the strobes. Some have longer flash durations at full power and other at minimum power.

Flash duration explained:
http://www.paulcbuff.c​om/forums/viewtopic.ph​p?t=59

Info on Alienbees flash duration (second table down):
http://alienbees.com/s​pecs.html

White Lightning:
http://www.white-lightning.com/specs.ht​ml

Curtis N wrote in post #5515939
Flash duration explained:
http://www.paulcbuff.c​om/forums/viewtopic.ph​p?t=59

Info on Alienbees flash duration (second table down):
http://alienbees.com/s​pecs.html

White Lightning:
http://www.white-lightning.com/specs.ht​ml

Hehehe. Never used those brands...

I do know that Broncolor and ProPhoto work different

René Damkot wrote in post #5516025
I do know that Broncolor and ProPhoto work different.

They work differently on your wallet, too.

My original statement may have been a bit too generalized, but I think it's valid for entry-level or mid-priced strobes.

Curtis N wrote in post #5516049
They work differently on your wallet, too.

True

From the first link you gave, I'd say the actual flash duration would stay the same with those units though, and only the t 0,5 would change, (voltage lower, so the "peak" gets lower, but not longer in total) would you agree?

I'd suppose the more expensive units I mentioned use capacitor switching.
(I do know that the *real* expensive Broncolor Graphite series also have the ability to alter the flash duration. No idea how they do that )

With a Rebel 300D and a pair of SP Excalibur 3200 monolights, the bottom edge of the frame is starting to go slightly dark at 1/250. Of course, that's no reason to toss out the lights.

The Dyna-lite Uni250R ($515.00) has full power duration of 1/1800 and 1/8 power duration of 1/6250. The Uni400JR ($638.00), FP duration = 1/675, 1/8 P duration = 1/2200. Both of these models would not be what I consider high end models.