Are These Good Flash Shots, Exposure Wise?

The major failing in my recent event shoot (a piano master class session that I was asked to shoot) was that majority of photos had the face decently exposed while the students' dresses -- typically white or light for such events -- were really blown, to my absolute frustration!!

That's natural though, if you have a perfectly exposed face then chances are that if they're wearing a white dress then it'll blow too. I would spot meter off the dress, adjust the Exposure to be all the way to the right (without blowing) - make a note of the positive EC you add - as later-on you cxan use the dress exposure + the EC to gauge your metering. Later, in Photoshop, you can edit it.

sando wrote in post #5517244
That's natural though, if you have a perfectly exposed face then chances are that if they're wearing a white dress then it'll blow too. I would spot meter off the dress, adjust the Exposure to be all the way to the right (without blowing) - make a note of the positive EC you add - as later-on you cxan use the dress exposure + the EC to gauge your metering. Later, in Photoshop, you can edit it.

Thanks for the tip. Knowing that I had no time to fool around with the light meter, I decided to rely on the histogram. If my memory serves me right, I remember I used somewhat on the underexposed side.

Just because it looks good on the histogram doesn't mean it looks good to you or the client. I NEVER, EVER use the histogram for anything, too misleading.

Shooting wrote in post #5526201
Just because it looks good on the histogram doesn't mean it looks good to you or the client. I NEVER, EVER use the histogram for anything, too misleading.

Oh, come on... "NEVER EVER" is too strong...

Next to light meter, histogram is my second best friend.... I just don't rely on it EXCLUSIVELY.

Those look pretty good & you use M which is key to get the right exposure every time. Another key is to test as you did & settle on a some "good" distances to shoot from. Then use those distances as much as you can & use the zoom to frame the shots at those "known" distances.

Read through post #6 & see if it helps: Flash at events

Things I might do differently: Use RAW & darken the sheet music, or better, replace the music with some that's not white. And angle it so it's not so prominent in the shot.
Not focus on the one in yellow. Move them so they're both in the same plane of focus. Then you can use a wider lens opening to further throw the music out of focus.
Put them farther from the background so it's a bit darker & not fighting them for attention.

PhotosGuy wrote in post #5529649
Those look pretty good & you use M which is key to get the right exposure every time. Another key is to test as you did & settle on a some "good" distances to shoot from. Then use those distances as much as you can & use the zoom to frame the shots at those "known" distances.

Read through post #6 & see if it helps: Flash at events

Things I might do differently: Use RAW & darken the sheet music, or better, replace the music with some that's not white. And angle it so it's not so prominent in the shot.
Not focus on the one in yellow. Move them so they're both in the same plane of focus. Then you can use a wider lens opening to further throw the music out of focus.
Put them farther from the background so it's a bit darker & not fighting them for attention.

Thanks, Frank, for the link and the suggestions.

I like these. They feel stylized.

On the second one, the background, being white, its a little overpowering, but thats a location issue.

Nice work. I see a whole new "on camera" flash movement starting, with you as the leader!

mattograph wrote in post #5530315
I see a whole new "on camera" flash movement starting, with you as the leader!

Oh NO!!