Hobbyist needs help on a cheap home studio set up

Stefan A wrote in post #5569072
OK - so how do those little ebay recievers connect to the strobe? I have a pair for my hotshoe flash, but I don't imagine it would connect the same way with a monolight.

Stefan

I think this is where Flashzebra comes in. The site sells all sorts of PC sync cords that should work with you ebay receivers. I have a relatively cheap Smith-Victor that has a PC sync cord connector and I have used it with my Cactus triggers. I'm assuming the Calumets have something similar. The trick is getting the right cord to work with the receiver and the appropriate strobe.

Lon, the owner of Flashzebra, posts in these forums and if he stumbles across this post he might respond. Otherwise seek him out and PM him or just go to his site.

You can either send Lon a PM through POTN or email him at:

sales@flashzebra.com

Cheap flashes work well for hairlights, background lights & head & shoulders shots:
Simple 2 Light Portrait Set-up

May I ask why you chose the Calumet kit? I'm also looking for something similar and trying to learn the positives and negatives to kits such as the ones you were looking at.

philmar wrote in post #5568007
Ive decided to go with the Calumet Genesis 200 kit. I suspect it is worth the extra expense over the Interfit kit.
Any advice on a decent softbox to go with the kit?
It looks like my Sekonic Studio Deluxe II light meter will not be up to the task.
Also what is the best way to trigger the strobes wirelessly? I own a 430Ex if that is of any importance.

If you take a look at some of the recent threads on Calumet Genesis as an inexpensive alternative for entry level strobes, and look at the results of the tests performed by myself and others you'd quickly see why the Calumet Genesis strobes are a fantastic value.

Not only are they "good for the money" but they're quite good, regardless of cost.

RacingMoose wrote in post #5574271
May I ask why you chose the Calumet kit? I'm also looking for something similar and trying to learn the positives and negatives to kits such as the ones you were looking at.

initially I was recommended the Interfit kit, on sale for $225 and with free shipping.
http://web1.adorama.co​m …ce=t&sid=121099​0708374285
It is a decent starter kit for someone interested in exploring studio photography and doesn't want to commit to a large capital outlay. I then came across this more expensive kit
http://www.calumetphot​o.com/item/CF0502K1/
That also is receiving rave reviews. I decided upon the Genesis because I am not detered by the extra cost (I am fortunate not to be a starving student or emerging photographer). This is my hobby and passion and I have disposable income for it. So for a couple hundred bucks I get a better set of lights.
i don't think the Interfits are user changable lights. they're very good for the money and are targeted for the small home studio. But they could always be used as "secondary" lighting (backdrops etc) if you get into studio photography. It's a perfect dirt cheap kit to test the waters and see if studio photography is for you.

FOR ME, I prefer the Calumet route as a better option for entry level. For a few hundred bucks more you get digital display/controls, built in fan, autodump, higher watt modeling lamp, plus you can get free shipping (google coupon)...I am pretty sure I'll get a lot of use out oif these. i live in Canada where the weather reduces the outdoor photographic oprtunities. I'll need a home studio to satisfy my photographic hunger.
For a hobbyist on a budget who is unsure if they will enjoy studio photography the Interfit kit is a better fit.

I would chime in (too late, of course) and suggest continuous lights. Studio stuff rarely needs the stopping power of a strobe, and you can set yourself up with a powerful daylight balanced fluorescent (NOT HOT LIGHTS) kit for less than $200.

c71clark wrote in post #5577225
Studio stuff rarely needs the stopping power of a strobe,....

I strongly disagree with this statement. Can you please explain how you've made this determination?

If that were worded, "Studio product stuff... ", I would tend to agree. I'll usually only use strobes for people, but prefer hot lights for product so I can see what's happening. Strobe modeling lights just aren't accurate enough for me.

Yeah, maybe that was too vague. How about: Studio work that does not involve fast action rarely *needs* the stopping power of strobes. I try hard not to use strobes on anything. I means I have to open the lens, of course, but I *like* open lenses.

My dog setup

I use a pair of old White Lightning studio strobes. They are WL5000 models often called coffee can units because of their distinctive shape. I strongly advise using a setup with studio type strobes rather than trying to limp along in the "Strobist mode" by trying to modify hotshoe strobes into pseudo studio lights.

Any studio strobe will be better than any hotshoe strobe as a studio light because:

1. Studio strobes have modeling lights which will allow you to visualize the effect of your lighting.

2. Studio strobes are made to be used on stands and can accept modifiers such as umbrellas without any extra equipment.

3. Studio strobes have built-in optical slaves which allow you to trigger your lights with inexpensive but very reliable infrared triggers.

4. Studio strobes use A/C current and don't rely on anemic AA batteries. The recycle time with studio strobes is always constant.

5. Studio strobes are generally more powerful than hotshoe strobes but can usually be used at less powerful settings.

6. Studio strobes can be less expensive than hotshoe units because they don't need a lot of extra equipment.

My setup cost less about $250. Each White Lightning cost me $50 about 17 years ago when I bought them used. Pro-rated, the cost of each unit has been in the area of 25 cents per month.

The boom (I strongly recommend using a boom) cost about $75. The umbrellas cost somewhere in the neighborhood of $15 each. I use one strobe bounced into a 42" white umbrella from above and one strobe bounced into a 36" silver umbrella from near the camera position. The silver umbrella will give specular highlights to the coat.

The light stand for the camera light is an eBay model which cost about $20 and I trigger the strobes with an infrared trigger purchased on eBay for about $20.

The background material is black velvet from a fabric store which I got with a 50% off coupon my wife had. The BG stand is fabricated from scrap PVC. The dog stands on a coffee table.

I use a stuffed animal to tweak my lights and get my exposure down. I recommend using a stuffed animal rather than trying to keep a dog still while you adjust your lights. I have an exposure meter but don't usually use it because my exposure is 1/60 second @ f/8 using the lights at 1/3 power. I can tweak the lights a bit or tweak the exposure a bit using the stuffed animal model and viewing the image on a computer monitor. I can also see my lighting as I setup the lights. The modeling light is invaluable to me.

My wife stands behind the BG and holds the dog over the BG stand with a thin show lead. This will be close to the color of the BG and can easily be erased in PS post processing. My wife has a long wand with a feather attractor (actually it is a cat's toy) to get the dog's attention. I shoot with a squeeker between my teeth which also gets the dog looking into the camera.

I shoot hand-held and usually sit on a roller office chair so I am near the level of the dog but can position myself easily.

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I just purchaesed the Calumet 200 light set after much research and I must say I am very pleased! Mind you, this is my first set of powered strobes (I've been using hotshoe off camera for a while...) I was impressed by the feel and quality of the build and the umbrellas that came with it are very nice!

Took me longer to unpack everything than it did to start taking photos with them. Very easy to use. My Cactus V2 works like a charm (attaches to strobe via sync cord that is included with the kit).

Here's a few of my first shots with them..

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nice set-up!

what brand is your boom arm and where did you get it? did you buy it as a kit with a boom stand?

RPCrowe wrote in post #5595360
I use a pair of old White Lightning studio strobes. They are WL5000 models often called coffee can units because of their distinctive shape. I strongly advise using a setup with studio type strobes rather than trying to limp along in the "Strobist mode" by trying to modify hotshoe strobes into pseudo studio lights.

Any studio strobe will be better than any hotshoe strobe as a studio light because:

1. Studio strobes have modeling lights which will allow you to visualize the effect of your lighting.

2. Studio strobes are made to be used on stands and can accept modifiers such as umbrellas without any extra equipment.

3. Studio strobes have built-in optical slaves which allow you to trigger your lights with inexpensive but very reliable infrared triggers.

4. Studio strobes use A/C current and don't rely on anemic AA batteries. The recycle time with studio strobes is always constant.

5. Studio strobes are generally more powerful than hotshoe strobes but can usually be used at less powerful settings.

6. Studio strobes can be less expensive than hotshoe units because they don't need a lot of extra equipment.

My setup cost less about $250. Each White Lightning cost me $50 about 17 years ago when I bought them used. Pro-rated, the cost of each unit has been in the area of 25 cents per month.

The boom (I strongly recommend using a boom) cost about $75. The umbrellas cost somewhere in the neighborhood of $15 each. I use one strobe bounced into a 42" white umbrella from above and one strobe bounced into a 36" silver umbrella from near the camera position. The silver umbrella will give specular highlights to the coat.

The light stand for the camera light is an eBay model which cost about $20 and I trigger the strobes with an infrared trigger purchased on eBay for about $20.

The background material is black velvet from a fabric store which I got with a 50% off coupon my wife had. The BG stand is fabricated from scrap PVC. The dog stands on a coffee table.

I use a stuffed animal to tweak my lights and get my exposure down. I recommend using a stuffed animal rather than trying to keep a dog still while you adjust your lights. I have an exposure meter but don't usually use it because my exposure is 1/60 second @ f/8 using the lights at 1/3 power. I can tweak the lights a bit or tweak the exposure a bit using the stuffed animal model and viewing the image on a computer monitor. I can also see my lighting as I setup the lights. The modeling light is invaluable to me.

My wife stands behind the BG and holds the dog over the BG stand with a thin show lead. This will be close to the color of the BG and can easily be erased in PS post processing. My wife has a long wand with a feather attractor (actually it is a cat's toy) to get the dog's attention. I shoot with a squeeker between my teeth which also gets the dog looking into the camera.

I shoot hand-held and usually sit on a roller office chair so I am near the level of the dog but can position myself easily.

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