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Thread started 17 Dec 2004 (Friday) 17:36
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Shooting in poorly lit areas...

 
Zamora3
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Location: Albuquerque, New Mexico (well close by)
     
Dec 17, 2004 17:36 |  #1

First off I'd like to say hi to evryone, now I'll get to my prolem. I have a Canon Digital Rebel with a Cannon EF Unltrasonic 70-300 lens and Cannon EFS 18-55 lene. I have no extra flash or anything extra. I have a really hard time shooting in poorly lit areas. If I use a slow shutter speed the lighting is very good but the picture is really blurry (I'm shooting indoor basketball games). On the other hand if I use a fast shutter speed and flash the movement is caught great but the picture is really dark and I get lots of red eye. And if I turn the ISO speed up, the picture comes out brighter but there is alot of noise in the picture. I have no problems getting good action shots in daylight its just the low lit areas that give me a hard time. So if you could give me any advice on extras that I could buy to make the pictures come out better or any help/tips would be greatly appriciated. Thanks.


My Gear List:
Canon 20D w/BG-E2
Canon Digital Rebel
Canon 580 EX Speedlite
Sigma 70-200 f2.8
Sigma 1.4x TC
Canon 50 f/1.8 II
Canon 75-300 IS f/4-5.6
Canon 18-55 f/3.5-5.6

  
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tim
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Dec 17, 2004 17:56 |  #2

Shooting in the dark's hard. Your choices are:
- Use a tripod and a show shutter speed. Not good for people or things that move.
- Use a tripod and show shutter speed with flash. Works ok.
- Use a big external flash
- Turn the ISO up as far as you need to, and use noise reduction software (eg neat image, but there are heaps). ISO 400's good, 800's ok. Above that you need noise reduction software.
- Get a lens with a large aperture. The 50mm F1.8 lens is about $70, which is great for low light.

There are most likely more options, but they're the main ones I use.


Professional wedding photographer, solution architect and general technical guy with multiple Amazon Web Services certifications.
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Zamora3
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Location: Albuquerque, New Mexico (well close by)
     
Dec 17, 2004 18:22 as a reply to  @ tim's post |  #3

#1

IMAGE NOT FOUND
Byte size: ZERO | Content warning: NOT AN IMAGE

I shot # 1 @
Tv( Shutter Speed )
1/60
Av( Aperture Value )
5.6
ISO Speed
400
Flash
On
Color Space
sRGB
Noise reduction
Off

#2
IMAGE NOT FOUND
Byte size: ZERO | Content warning: NOT AN IMAGE


I shot #2 @
Tv( Shutter Speed )
1/60
Av( Aperture Value )
4.0
ISO Speed
800
Flash
Off
Color Space
sRGB
Noise reduction
Off

1st off how do I turn on noise reduction? I like both pics I just wish # 1 was brighter and the red eye is really bad. on #2 i like the brightness I just wish the movement was caught better. I would like to shoot at 1/125. Is there anything else I could do to make the pictures come out brighter and not blurred ar all?

My Gear List:
Canon 20D w/BG-E2
Canon Digital Rebel
Canon 580 EX Speedlite
Sigma 70-200 f2.8
Sigma 1.4x TC
Canon 50 f/1.8 II
Canon 75-300 IS f/4-5.6
Canon 18-55 f/3.5-5.6

  
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drisley
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Dec 17, 2004 20:16 as a reply to  @ Zamora3's post |  #4

I agree with Tim about the 50F1.8II lens. It's great for low light shooting, but sometimes may be a little short (if you are not allowed on the court).
For a little more length, and a little more money, get the 85F1.8. This lens is affordable, and practically made for this exact purpose. (basketball in a gym).
I would definately shoot at ISO800 or ISO1600, just make sure you don't underexpose. A properly exposed image on the Drebel at ISO800 definately needs no noise reduction (sample (external link)). Even ISO1600 will look pretty darn good without noise reduction in prints up to 8x10".
Try to shoot in AV mode, with the aperture wide open if you have to, although F2.0-F2.8 is ideal if you can get shutter speeds of about 1/200s or faster.
For example, this was shot (external link)in a gymnasium at F2, 1/400s, ISO1600 without noise reduction. Granted, it was with a 20D, but the difference in noise between the 20D and Drebel isn't as huge imho as some people think. Just make sure NOT to underexpose at all.

One other thing to note: shoot RAW if you can. That will allow you to correct white balance later. Getting the right white balance in some gymnasiums can be a real task.


EOS R6 Mark II - Sigma 50/1.4 Art - Sigma 14-24/2.8 Art - Canon EF 70-200/2.8L Mark III - Godox Xpro-C - Godox TT685C x2

  
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Zamora3
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Location: Albuquerque, New Mexico (well close by)
     
Dec 17, 2004 22:31 as a reply to  @ drisley's post |  #5

thanks, also, how do you turn on the noise reduction and how can you prevent red eye?


My Gear List:
Canon 20D w/BG-E2
Canon Digital Rebel
Canon 580 EX Speedlite
Sigma 70-200 f2.8
Sigma 1.4x TC
Canon 50 f/1.8 II
Canon 75-300 IS f/4-5.6
Canon 18-55 f/3.5-5.6

  
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drisley
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Dec 17, 2004 22:51 |  #6

You don't turn on noise reduction in camera. There is no such feature.
You can buy noise reduction software, or download free nr software on the internet.
Using the settings I mentioned above, you don't use a flash at all, therefore there will be no redeye. I've never used a flash for indoor sports. In fact, most sports won't allow it anyway.


EOS R6 Mark II - Sigma 50/1.4 Art - Sigma 14-24/2.8 Art - Canon EF 70-200/2.8L Mark III - Godox Xpro-C - Godox TT685C x2

  
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Zamora3
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Location: Albuquerque, New Mexico (well close by)
     
Dec 17, 2004 22:58 as a reply to  @ drisley's post |  #7

where I got those pics I get to sit on the floor underneath the basket and use my flash. Why does it say Noise Reduction: Off when I look at my pics through zoombrowserEx ? I talked to another semi-pro photgrapher and he suggested a Canon 550ex flash, what do you guys think aout that flash?


My Gear List:
Canon 20D w/BG-E2
Canon Digital Rebel
Canon 580 EX Speedlite
Sigma 70-200 f2.8
Sigma 1.4x TC
Canon 50 f/1.8 II
Canon 75-300 IS f/4-5.6
Canon 18-55 f/3.5-5.6

  
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tim
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Dec 17, 2004 23:02 |  #8

The 550EX is a good mid range flash. The 420EX is cheap and it's what a few of my friends use and they like it (we're all hobbyist photographers). The 580EX is the newest and most expensive, had a few extra features, but it's really expensive.

I got the 550EX myself, I figure it'll be useful if I ever want to control a wireless slave. It's really easy to overexpose with such a big flash.


Professional wedding photographer, solution architect and general technical guy with multiple Amazon Web Services certifications.
Read all my FAQs (wedding, printing, lighting, books, etc)

  
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Zamora3
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129 posts
Joined Dec 2004
Location: Albuquerque, New Mexico (well close by)
     
Dec 17, 2004 23:11 |  #9

whenever I try to get my aperure to the lowest point it will only go to 3.5 not anything lower. I dont know why mabye you do ?


My Gear List:
Canon 20D w/BG-E2
Canon Digital Rebel
Canon 580 EX Speedlite
Sigma 70-200 f2.8
Sigma 1.4x TC
Canon 50 f/1.8 II
Canon 75-300 IS f/4-5.6
Canon 18-55 f/3.5-5.6

  
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drisley
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Dec 17, 2004 23:19 |  #10

Noise Reduction can not be turned on or off with the DRebel. It has automatic noise reduction on long exposures (longer than 1 second).
Personally, I would never use a flash for a sporting event. I just don't like how it looks.
I also have never found a situation, no matter how dim the gym, that I've needed a flash.
I would spend the money on the 85F1.8 before getting an external flash for this sort of shooting.
Your images will look better than using a flash and 70-300mm lens. Another added benefit is that the 85F1.8 will focus MUCH faster than a zoom lens because it is a prime. This is definately a much coveted feature for this type of action.

The lowest aperture you can set is a limit of your lens.


EOS R6 Mark II - Sigma 50/1.4 Art - Sigma 14-24/2.8 Art - Canon EF 70-200/2.8L Mark III - Godox Xpro-C - Godox TT685C x2

  
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toddb
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Location: Seattle Washington
     
Dec 17, 2004 23:26 as a reply to  @ drisley's post |  #11

I'd pick up that 50mm F1.8. I got it just to see what "speed" was in a lens and I wasn't disapointed. For $75 new it's quite a bargin. I got it to decide if I wanted to wait a very long time until I had enough money to by the 70-200L 2.8 over the F4 version and after seeing how useful it is I think I'll keep saving for that faster lens. Just think, your shooting at F5.6....slow, just imagine if you could go to F1.8!!


10D, EF17-40L, EF50F1.4, EF28-135IS, 550EX [AlienBees 2xB800 and 1xB400 with large softbox and reversible umbrella] Sekonic L-358

  
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tim
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Dec 17, 2004 23:42 |  #12

Lenses have a maximum aperture. If you're talking about the kit lens, it has a max apertuere of F3.5 at it's widest angle, and F5.6 at it's narrowist angle. If you need wider you need to get a different lens. For low light the 50mm F1.8's great value at about $75.


Professional wedding photographer, solution architect and general technical guy with multiple Amazon Web Services certifications.
Read all my FAQs (wedding, printing, lighting, books, etc)

  
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triangle
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Location: Texas, U.S.A.
     
Dec 17, 2004 23:44 as a reply to  @ toddb's post |  #13

Hi, I was about to purchase an external speed flash soon for this same purpose. I am shooting basketball with the Drebel as well. I am using a Tamron 75-300mm lens, 1600 ISO, AV mode. Most of my pictures are turning out dark and when I use my built-on flash it is giving me too much red-eye. I am allowed to use flash at the middle school, but have been told it is not allowed at the high school. Also, I am not sure about if it is permitted at gyms we will be visiting. Another photographer I know uses the 550/EX with a 10D model and suggested that to me. However, you have caught my attention and I am weighing my options. I am interested in knowing more about the 85F1.8 lens that you are discussing. Is this a Cannon lens? Does it matter?

This is what I found after reading :
Canon Telephoto EF 85mm f/1.8 USM Autofocus Lens
Mfr # 2519A003


I looked for that lens in the Tokina brand but could not find it, can you clarify which you use and the price range. The Canon was listed for right at $320 which is what I was going to pay for the flash. Looking forward to your response.


Canon is Superb

  
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tim
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Dec 17, 2004 23:48 |  #14

We're talking about the Canon 50mm F1.8 lens: this one (external link). It's ok if you're close to what you're shooting, but for sports you might want something a bit longer. Either way it's a very fast lens (ie wide aperture) so you can get fast shutter speeds and hopefully use lower ISO values too.

If someone took a photo of me using a flash while I was playing a sport like basketball i'd most likely run over and kick the **** out of them. Bright lights would interfere with their ability to play the game, and i'd take offense. Use a fast lens and high ISO so as not to bother the players.


Professional wedding photographer, solution architect and general technical guy with multiple Amazon Web Services certifications.
Read all my FAQs (wedding, printing, lighting, books, etc)

  
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triangle
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Dec 18, 2004 00:00 as a reply to  @ tim's post |  #15

Hey that's where I am shopping! I corrected myself, it is the higher end 85 that I am interested in that Drisley said he uses. I have noticed that I am having too much lens when players come close with my 75-300mm. Is the 85mm/ f1.8mm what I need in your opinion? Same cost to me, I want positive results.

Is this the right one below?

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …tails&Q=&sku=12​182&is=USA (external link)

And how can I post urls?


Canon is Superb

  
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