How do I use the panning base of the Markins Q3?

So I got the ballhead, but I don't know how to use the panning base. Can someone please explain to me how to use it? For example, let's say that each picture will have a 33% overlap and I want to use 5 pictures to form a panorama. How would I proceed to do it with the panning base?

From my research, parallax would be a problem with using the panning base of the ballhead. However, I've been told that as long as there are no foreground objects and that all of the sceneries are in the background then parallax wouldn't be a problem. In other words, landscape panoramas or anything that doesn't have foreground objects would be perfectly fine with using the ballhead's panning base right? Will the results look similar to one produce by a dedicated panorama ballhead?

Thanks!

About panoramas.

Foreground will be a problem, but CS3 does a preety good job stitching panos, so you can get away with it.

If you have an L plate, mount the camera in portrait orientation.
Level the tripod. Level the ballhead (camera). Set the exposure to manual. Shoot left to right. (easier, since that's how the software will show them).

The first thing you need to do is make sure that you're tripod has been leveled...otherwise, the orientation of each image will vary as you turn the panning base.

True about the parallax...if you don't have any close foreground objects, finding the lens' nodal point wouldn't apply, so there'd be no need for special pano brackets. As far as the overlap goes, I just eyeball mine through the viewfinder...I don't worry about the tick marks on the panning base. Once I make sure that my base is level, I just loosen the panning lock, rotate the head a bit until I 'see' my overlap, then tighten it back down and shoot. Repeat for each frame.

One thing to consider is the RRS panning clamp, PCL-1 with the mating dovetail. Rather than fuss with tripod legs, etc. to make sure the rig is level, you simply mount the PCL-1 into the ballhead clamp, loosen the head, and adjust the level/secure the ballhead. Then, mount the camera to the PCL-1 and you're set to go...using the PCL-1, I can level my rig in a matter of seconds without having to mess with tripod legs and leg locks. The PCL-1 also has panning ability...once your camera is mounted and ready to go, just loosen the panning lock on the PCL-1 and rotate through the shots. Like other RRS gear, its beautifully made and a bit pricey, but the time savings out in the field are worth the price.

For a very good stitching software package, PTGUI is one of the best and is available via download.

René Damkot wrote in post #5566671
About panoramas.

Foreground will be a problem, but CS3 does a preety good job stitching panos, so you can get away with it.

If you have an L plate, mount the camera in portrait orientation.
Level the tripod. Level the ballhead (camera). Set the exposure to manual. Shoot left to right. (easier, since that's how the software will show them).

Thanks for the information, but how should I turn the panning base as I shoot? There are reference marks on the panning base. I'm not quite sure how to use that to my advantage.

argyle wrote in post #5566703
The first thing you need to do is make sure that you're tripod has been leveled...otherwise, the orientation of each image will vary as you turn the panning base.

True about the parallax...if you don't have any close foreground objects, finding the lens' nodal point wouldn't apply, so there'd be no need for special pano brackets. As far as the overlap goes, I just eyeball mine through the viewfinder...I don't worry about the tick marks on the panning base. Once I make sure that my base is level, I just loosen the panning lock, rotate the head a bit until I 'see' my overlap, then tighten it back down and shoot. Repeat for each frame.

One thing to consider is the RRS panning clamp, PCL-1 with the mating dovetail. Rather than fuss with tripod legs, etc. to make sure the rig is level, you simply mount the PCL-1 into the ballhead clamp, loosen the head, and adjust the level/secure the ballhead. Then, mount the camera to the PCL-1 and you're set to go...using the PCL-1, I can level my rig in a matter of seconds without having to mess with tripod legs and leg locks. The PCL-1 also has panning ability...once your camera is mounted and ready to go, just loosen the panning lock on the PCL-1 and rotate through the shots. Like other RRS gear, its beautifully made and a bit pricey, but the time savings out in the field are worth the price.

For a very good stitching software package, PTGUI is one of the best and is available via download.

I'm leaving for Hong Kong tomorrow night so there's no time to order any additional gear. Thanks for the information.

Sgt_Strider wrote in post #5567939
Thanks for the information, but how should I turn the panning base as I shoot? There are reference marks on the panning base. I'm not quite sure how to use that to my advantage.

The tick marks on the panning base are set at every 10-degrees. TBH, I never use them when shooting a pano. I can easily estimate the needed overlap when looking through the viewfinder...I'm sure that you'll be able to also. The overlap doesn't have to be precise (which is why I think you're overly concerned about the reference marks engraved on the head)...the stitching software will account for minor variances in overlap. This is why some folks are able to shoot single row panos handheld, without the benefit of a tripod...

The most inportant aspects to panos are proper level (if using a tripod) and exposure from one frame to the next. Also, avoid the use of a polarizer...you may get variations across the images. Once you frame and shoot the first image, simply loosen the panning lockscrew, rotate the head to give you sufficient overlap, secure the lockscrew, and take the next image. Don't be too worried about the tick marks. If you have some time, practice in your yard or at a nearby park before leaving on your trip.

IF you're not able to buy anything or make anything before you leave; TRY to avoid patterns in the foreground.

Water/grass (Natural objects) will blend well in a stitching program; things like wood planks on a deck/pier or bricks (Manmade oblects with hard lines) don't blend as easily.

When I have any large object (rocks or trees for example), I either try to keep them on one frame, or seperately stitch them and reapply them manually to the rest of the image later. It's more work though.

I used this technique on a pano of the Grande Canal in Venice taken during a busy period. Loads of work, but I got there eventually.

Richard