Thanks alot for the replies. I was trying to get the background to blur hence why I used 1/60 - 1/80s. I did bump up ISO to aid the shots getting blurred. I also shot in Tv Mode and AI servo. I Think overall, the shots COULD be sharper. Thanks alot for the input, it will be next time!
Yes, I will get them to wear some helmets. Very dangerous.
SilverHCIC wrote:="SilverHCIC"]Your shutter speed should be much higher for cycling. Two of your shots are at 1/80 and one is at 1/60. This is generally too slow to freeze a cycling shot for a crisp image. If necessary, push ISO higher, but I think you had room.
Higher shutter speeds will help quite a bit with your panning shots.
Your sharpest in the series was taken at 1/320, which is much slower than I usually shoot for cycling. I generally do not fall below 1/500, especially if panning. Try pushing your shutter speed next time, and I'm sure you'll like the results.

This is one I got at 1/400. The background doesn't blur with this kind of shutter speed, this is what you get as well?
1/400 F8 ISO320 70mm
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3turner wrote:="3turner"]CTM, great effort on these shots you posted. I actually like that you used the slower shutter speed as the spokes of the wheels show motion as does the background. I think all you need to do is practice your panning technique so that you can have the cyclist in focus with blur in all the right places

. The shot with a shutter speed of 1/320 is still a bit fast IMO since the spokes on the wheel look to be frozen...you can see distinct lines.
Thank you for your comments. The toss up I had was, completely sharp shot at like 1/800 or the 'in motion blurred background' shot. The problem with the bicycles were, they were going slower than a car / motorbike. To me, i found it more difficult with a slower subject than a fast one. I think I need to work on the panning.
Here are a few more, these were taken from a car.
1/80s F10 ISO320 24mm
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1/60s F16 ISO320 58mm
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1/125 F14 ISO160 58mm
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I know this doesn't count.... just thought would throw it in
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