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Thread started 31 May 2008 (Saturday) 04:02
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Using ND grad filters

 
Vendee
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May 31, 2008 04:02 |  #1

I'm just about to buy a Cokin p system holder, adapter and one or two ND grad filters but I'm a bit confused about how to use them in relation to the correct exposure. Do I slide the filter in to its correct position and take the shot or do I have to lock the exposure before sliding the filter in? Thanks in advance.


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Rankinia
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May 31, 2008 04:14 |  #2

Slide it in before. The aim of the filter is to try and get the dynamic range less so that there is no blown highlights or under exposed areas so that you can take photos as usual but not have to do a lot of post work.

I find that the ND filters often give a purple colour. Im not sure im sold on my kit. Need to use it more. I also think you should buy the Z kit as you have the 10-22. But that call is yours.

Adam


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Nick_C
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May 31, 2008 04:28 |  #3

When I use mine I have actually had better results by doing the following:

#1 Meter anywhere but the sky, still being careful not to blow highlights (a little wont hurt)
#2 Slide down the ND grad.
#3 Take the shot ;-)a

You can slide it down to start with but like I say ive had much better results doing it the other way, it really works well.




  
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ckgowens
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May 31, 2008 09:00 |  #4

Rankinia wrote in post #5629668 (external link)
I find that the ND filters often give a purple colour. Im not sure im sold on my kit. Need to use it more. I also think you should buy the Z kit as you have the 10-22. But that call is yours.

You must be using the Cokin brand filters. Cokin's filters are NOT neutral density. They don't even purport to be. They label them "gray" because they know they aren't true neutral density. They have a color cast and it is often in the blue/violet range. Spend the few extra dollars and get the HiTech filters if you can't afford the Singh-Ray, Tiffen or Lee filters. They are true neutral density and you will get better results.


As for use, typically you slide the filter into place and meter with the filter in place to set the exposure. Alternatively, without the filter, find a neutral midtone and meter to that, calculating the strength of the filter by metering the highlights and shadows of the scene and subtracting to determine how many stops there are between them. Us a filer of that strengh, align it and expose to the previous midtone.


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dbdors
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May 31, 2008 09:40 |  #5

DAGS on "using ND grad filters". There is lots of info out there.

Here are a couple of good links.
http://www.great-landscape-photography.com/gradua​ted-filters.html (external link)
http://www.bryanhansel​.com/?p=1029 (external link)
http://singhray.blogsp​ot.com …xplores-how-nd-grads.html (external link)

As mentioned stay away from the Cokin brand filters. The holders are just fine, but their ND grads are not ND, they are gray filters. In fact they mix the terms and are confusing if you ask me. If you go to the Cokin site and look up the ND filters, you will ultimately notice that they label them Gradual Grey G1, for example, not ND!!!

I like the HiTech, many love the Singh-Rays. You will pay more for both with the Singh-Rays being most expensive.

Edit: This is a good link as well: http://singhray.blogsp​ot.com …ng-graduated-neutral.html (external link)
and this previous thread discussed the same: https://photography-on-the.net …t=501375&highli​ght=dbdors


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May 31, 2008 14:50 |  #6

Thanks to everyone who replied. Rankinia, yes I know the Z system would be better with my 10-22 but its so much more expensive. I will be buying the "wide" single slot P filter holder and from reading old threads here, I'll only get a bit of vignetting at 10mm and I can live with that.

As for the Cokin ND grads, or lack of them, I'll probabaly go with Hitech ND grads although I'm a bit worried after reading that the Hitech 85mm filters are sometimes a very tight fit in the Cokin holders


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dbdors
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May 31, 2008 21:27 |  #7

Vendee wrote in post #5631879 (external link)
Thanks to everyone who replied. Rankinia, yes I know the Z system would be better with my 10-22 but its so much more expensive. I will be buying the "wide" single slot P filter holder and from reading old threads here, I'll only get a bit of vignetting at 10mm and I can live with that.

I've not had any problems with a cut-down Cokin P with a 17-40/4L. I've not tested it with a 16mm. Save your money on buying the Cokin Wide version. Get a standard and cut off the the first two slots. The Cokin Wide is only good down to 20mm (on FF).

Vendee wrote in post #5631879 (external link)
As for the Cokin ND grads, or lack of them, I'll probably go with Hitech ND grads although I'm a bit worried after reading that the Hitech 85mm filters are sometimes a very tight fit in the Cokin holders

This has not been a problem for me. The HiTech slide in just fine. I find them to not be too tight or too loose.


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mavericksupersonic
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May 31, 2008 21:55 |  #8

I use the HiTech filters as well with a manual holder (ie. my hand). I guess I should get a holder but it's easy enough to simply hold the filter in front of the lens when they are needed.


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argyle
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Jun 01, 2008 06:32 |  #9

Vendee wrote in post #5631879 (external link)
Thanks to everyone who replied. Rankinia, yes I know the Z system would be better with my 10-22 but its so much more expensive. I will be buying the "wide" single slot P filter holder and from reading old threads here, I'll only get a bit of vignetting at 10mm and I can live with that.

As for the Cokin ND grads, or lack of them, I'll probabaly go with Hitech ND grads although I'm a bit worried after reading that the Hitech 85mm filters are sometimes a very tight fit in the Cokin holders

If you can swing it, though, you may want to go with the Cokin Z-Pro or the Lee holder. If you plan on doing a lot of landscape shooting, you will at some point in time come across the need to stack GND filters...the Cokin P wide angle holder won't let you do this since it only has a single slot. Really, if you're able, give some thought to the either of the larger holders. Its a few dollars more, but in the end, its cheaper to get it now than afterwards.


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angryhampster
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Jun 01, 2008 10:53 |  #10

mavericksupersonic wrote in post #5633779 (external link)
I use the HiTech filters as well with a manual holder (ie. my hand). I guess I should get a holder but it's easy enough to simply hold the filter in front of the lens when they are needed.


I've done this with my 24-70 since I don't have an 82mm adapter. Works just fine and actually makes the effect less obvious since there's a bit of shake to it :)


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Jun 04, 2008 14:39 as a reply to  @ angryhampster's post |  #11

Just to follow up on my original post, I bought the Cokin P wide holder. It didn't cost much more than the standard holder and I couldn't be bothered with cutting off the last two slots. I bought a set of HiTech ND grads (0.3, 0.6 & 0.9). I'd read reports about Hitech filters sometimes being a shade too wide for the Cokin holder but mine fit just right.

With some people advising to fit the filter and shoot, and others advising to lock the exposure before sliding the filter in, I went out today and tried both methods. Using the "fit and shoot" method resulted in the sky being darkened down as expected but using the "exposure lock then fit filter" method resulted in the whole shot being darkened down which isn't desirable. So it looks like the fit and shoot method is best. Thanks to everyone for their input.


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azpix
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Jun 07, 2008 01:36 |  #12

what metering mode are you all using when you meter with the gnd?


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Nick_C
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Jun 07, 2008 03:25 |  #13

azpix wrote in post #5676993 (external link)
what metering mode are you all using when you meter with the gnd?

It doesnt matter what mode, I generally use evaluative for quickness, I meter, then slide the grad down & I see the sky darken, this may or may not be the correct way of using them but it works really well.




  
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Jun 07, 2008 04:19 |  #14

azpix wrote in post #5676993 (external link)
what metering mode are you all using when you meter with the gnd?

Evaluative.


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Jun 07, 2008 04:30 |  #15

Nick_C wrote in post #5677166 (external link)
It doesnt matter what mode, I generally use evaluative for quickness, I meter, then slide the grad down & I see the sky darken, this may or may not be the correct way of using them but it works really well.

I took a shot with each of my ND grads. Using the meter first method, the foreground got darker as the filter got stronger when it should have remained constant with just the sky getting progressively darker.

When I repeated the experiment but this time metering after the filter was slid in, the foreground remained constant and the sky was progressively darkened between shots.


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