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Thread started 22 Dec 2004 (Wednesday) 01:57
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300d/550ex combo

 
mapollo
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Dec 22, 2004 01:57 |  #1

I've been lucky enough to borrow a 550ex to "try out" on my 300d for Xmas day. This is the first time I've used a flash gun. On the day I will have to think quickly in order to catch that moment so after testing this a little it seems that P mode will probably be my best option.

Right. So now the question. I set the camera to P and the 550 to ETTL. I take a photo with looks bright enough on the LCD but I check the histogram and it shows the photo to be a little dark. Does it matter how I expose to the right? for example I could use FEC (I have the hack) or I could use EC. I'm not sure which method of correction to use.

Also what about ISO setting? Do I leave that at 100???

TIA David....


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tim
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Dec 22, 2004 02:00 |  #2

IMHO it takes lots of practice to use an external flash well. I'm still learning, i've used mine on a few occasions.

I'm still not sure I know how to use FEC. I just hit "set" on the flash then hit the + and - buttons, which seems to help.

I use ISO 100 and manual mode. Someone recommended F8 and 1/60th of a second, which you tweak as you need too. If you run in P/Av mode the shutter stays open much longer than necessary, blurring things that the flash caught nice and sharp.


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jgbeam
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Dec 22, 2004 06:23 as a reply to  @ tim's post |  #3

FEC controls flash exposure of your main subject. AE (camera) EC controls the exposure of the background if you are shooting in a manual mode. You need to spend a little time with the 550EX manual and experiment a little. You will also need to play around with bounce flash. Keep ISO at 100.
Happy shooting!

Jim




  
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scottbergerphoto
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Dec 22, 2004 07:05 as a reply to  @ jgbeam's post |  #4

The easiest way for a newbie to get great shots with flash is to put the camera in P mode, the 550EX in ETTL. Then take a couple of test shots and review the histogram. If you are more then a tiny bit away from the Rt side of the histogram, just add a small amount of FEC (+1/3) and try again. Keep adding FEC untill you get close to the right. As long as you stay in the same general lighting conditions and room, those settings will be ok. If you change rooms, different walls/ceiling, you need to readjust. Some cameras have FEC on the camera body as well. The FEC set on the 550EX will override the camera.
As already stated, EC only affects the ambient light exposure.
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Hellashot
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Dec 22, 2004 10:20 as a reply to  @ scottbergerphoto's post |  #5
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You can either use a flash exposure of + 1/3 or 2/3 using ETTL, or use manual zoom to put the flash into the proper focal length. The flash will read the focal length the lens is at and does not compensate for the 1.6x factor. If you use auto and no flash exposure your flash will fall short and images come out dark. The 580EX is supposed to automatically account for the 1.6x factor.


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tim
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Dec 22, 2004 12:36 |  #6

Check for blown highlights in your LCD too - they flash when you have the histogram showing (which you should have it always show).


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rkoshy
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Dec 22, 2004 18:05 |  #7

mapollo wrote:
I set the camera to P and the 550 to ETTL. I take a photo with looks bright enough on the LCD but I check the histogram and it shows the photo to be a little dark. Does it matter how I expose to the right? for example I could use FEC (I have the hack) or I could use EC. I'm not sure which method of correction to use.

David...

After quite a few hair-pulling sessions, I've learned to get pretty good shots w/ the 550EX & my 300D.

#1 - If you don't want REALLY bright pictures in close quarters, bounce it off the ceiling, works great, and captures the mood well in most "family gathering" type scenarios. Another advantage is that you will get more of the backgrounds, instead of the picture looking like the subjects were standing in a DARK room.

#2 - In most modes, a FEC (dialed up on the 550) of 2/3 or 1 will help QUITE A BIT. I've noticed that the flash gets the "center" of the picture better than the sides/edges... once the FEC is there, I have not had that problem. I have in some cases used FEC's of 1 to 2... though anything over 1 is likely to get blown highlights.

#3 - If you're doing candid shots & shuch... get used to Av mode, as you can control the aperture to get a good bokeh (assuming you have a nice lens)... I generally prefer 'M' mode (because I'm kind of AR I guess).


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tim
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Dec 22, 2004 18:11 as a reply to  @ Hellashot's post |  #8

Hellashot wrote:
You can either use a flash exposure of + 1/3 or 2/3 using ETTL, or use manual zoom to put the flash into the proper focal length. The flash will read the focal length the lens is at and does not compensate for the 1.6x factor. If you use auto and no flash exposure your flash will fall short and images come out dark. The 580EX is supposed to automatically account for the 1.6x factor.

Because of the 1.6 crop factor the flash will illuminate more area than it needs to, the only problem with that is it uses a little more battery. It's not like it puts out too much/little light.

rkoshy wrote:
David...

After quite a few hair-pulling sessions, I've learned to get pretty good shots w/ the 550EX & my 300D.

#1 - If you don't want REALLY bright pictures in close quarters, bounce it off the ceiling, works great, and captures the mood well in most "family gathering" type scenarios. Another advantage is that you will get more of the backgrounds, instead of the picture looking like the subjects were standing in a DARK room.

#2 - In most modes, a FEC (dialed up on the 550) of 2/3 or 1 will help QUITE A BIT. I've noticed that the flash gets the "center" of the picture better than the sides/edges... once the FEC is there, I have not had that problem. I have in some cases used FEC's of 1 to 2... though anything over 1 is likely to get blown highlights.

#3 - If you're doing candid shots & shuch... get used to Av mode, as you can control the aperture to get a good bokeh (assuming you have a nice lens)... I generally prefer 'M' mode (because I'm kind of AR I guess).

#1 The flip down diffuser can be handy for close up shots, as well as ceiling bounce.

#3 I prefer M mode if I have time to set it up, because Av automatically exposes for the background sans flash. That's handy if you want the background and you're using a tripod, not so much if you just want to capture a person or two in a dark place.


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rkoshy
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Dec 22, 2004 18:52 as a reply to  @ tim's post |  #9

tim wrote:
#1 The flip down diffuser can be handy for close up shots, as well as ceiling bounce.

#3 I prefer M mode if I have time to set it up, because Av automatically exposes for the background sans flash. That's handy if you want the background and you're using a tripod, not so much if you just want to capture a person or two in a dark place.

Tim,

#1 -> I've always found the flip down diffuser to end up making the shot quite a bit too dark, and almost provides a fill-flash at that point. Maybe it's just the settings I'm using, but I'm not sure.

# 3 -> When I say Manual... I should have clarified: I most always leave it with the exposure between 1/40-1/60 and mostly play with the aperture. I think the hack has a way to automagically do this w/o going into M.


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tim
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Dec 22, 2004 18:55 as a reply to  @ rkoshy's post |  #10

rkoshy wrote:
Tim,

#1 -> I've always found the flip down diffuser to end up making the shot quite a bit too dark, and almost provides a fill-flash at that point. Maybe it's just the settings I'm using, but I'm not sure.

# 3 -> When I say Manual... I should have clarified: I most always leave it with the exposure between 1/40-1/60 and mostly play with the aperture. I think the hack has a way to automagically do this w/o going into M.

I'm not an expert by any means, I just said what i'd found with experimentation. Give it a go and see what you rekon... I think the diffuser makes it work better at close range, but i've not played very much with that. The Omnibounce works pretty well too.

If the hack can help out great! Someone just needs to tell us how :)


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300d/550ex combo
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