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Thread started 04 Jun 2008 (Wednesday) 18:23
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Sigma APO 150-500mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM - Bigmos

 
zooxanthellae
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Apr 01, 2011 19:43 |  #2431

The focus points do actually cover a little more than the area that is shown in the viewfinder so if another element in the scene has slightly more contrast than the subject and is on the edge of the focus point the focus maybe pulled there.
try using the high sensitivity spot if you feel the subject sits at the edge of the focus point.Either that or move the focus point to get it bang on the subject or do a quick focus and recompose.
Shots look nice and sharp now though so you know the lens is up to the job.


Canon 5D MK II,7d,70-200 L F2.8,24-70L,100mm Macro usm F2.8,sigma 150-500 OS,50mm 1.8 mk II,580 ex II. :D

  
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Inspeqtor
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Apr 01, 2011 23:48 |  #2432

Inspeqtor wrote in post #12137640 (external link)
What is back button focus? How does it work on the XSi?

Allan.L wrote in post #12137709 (external link)
On my t2i its in custom functions, and i set it to "AE/AF, no AE lock". On the back of the camera you use the * button to focus. It allows you to focus independently of pressing the shutter. IE without it, if you fully release the shutter button and depress it again, it will re-focus which can be a big hindrance to getting the shot.

At one time I knew about the back button focus, but I never used it and forgot about it. Thank you for reminding me.

If I understand this correctly, for instances like BIF once you have the bird in focus it will stay in focus as long as the bird does not go a long distance away, thus allowing more chances of getting a good shot.

A few weeks ago I was on an eagle watch where 2 eagles were flying overhead. When I tried taking pictures with the focus being on the shutter button, many times the camera tried to focus on open sky so I switched to MF and got a couple of fair shots with my 70-300 lens. I am hoping to do better once I get the Bigmos and try the back button focus!

Thank you!


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Allan.L
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Apr 02, 2011 00:40 |  #2433

malndobe wrote in post #12140924 (external link)
MUCH happier with the results, thank you AllanL, DreDaze and everyone else who gave tips. I upped my shutter speed, set F-stop to f8, and also after reading a number of threads on Focus in the 7D changed the Al Servo tracking sensitivity, putting it 1 notch to the slow side.

No processing done except to crop and resize to meet the 1024 rule. These were "average" for what I got, only a few had that soft look the right side bird had in my previous post.

One thing I did notice, the second shot turned out to be good positioning for multiple things. Specifically having a branch going right "through" the birds head. Sometimes, even though the focal point was right on the eye of the bird, the branch behind it's head was actually what was in focus. Most of the time (9 out of 10 or better) the focal point was right where I wanted it. I already did an AF Microadjustment, should I tweak it a little more or just expect this to sometimes happen?

Looking much better. I know for instance there are several people who find they get 'softer' images even below 1/3000! (hand held) Keep at it, if it were easy everyone would be doing it ;) I'm glad we could help a little bit, my copy of this lens isnt coming until tuesday/wednesday, i'm very excited to say the least.


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Allan.L
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Apr 02, 2011 00:45 |  #2434

Inspeqtor wrote in post #12142177 (external link)
At one time I knew about the back button focus, but I never used it and forgot about it. Thank you for reminding me.

If I understand this correctly, for instances like BIF once you have the bird in focus it will stay in focus as long as the bird does not go a long distance away, thus allowing more chances of getting a good shot.

A few weeks ago I was on an eagle watch where 2 eagles were flying overhead. When I tried taking pictures with the focus being on the shutter button, many times the camera tried to focus on open sky so I switched to MF and got a couple of fair shots with my 70-300 lens. I am hoping to do better once I get the Bigmos and try the back button focus!

Thank you!

To keep the bird in focus you must keep holding the back button focus (in AI-servo mode), unless it is tracking within the DOF of the lens/aperture combo you are shooting in. In your eagle example you are correct, if using back button focus and keeping it on track with the target it would not re-focus with each press of the shutter which is what we really want. When the focus is set to the shutter like normal, and when locked on and you press it again, the lens will hunt around which is very annoying! (lens focus chips are not as smart as us yet) haha


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Allan.L
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Apr 02, 2011 01:02 |  #2435

Hopefully i just made cents... a few deep after a night out lol, no offense intended. :)


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Inspeqtor
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Apr 02, 2011 08:27 |  #2436

Allan.L wrote in post #12142417 (external link)
To keep the bird in focus you must keep holding the back button focus (in AI-servo mode), unless it is tracking within the DOF of the lens/aperture combo you are shooting in. In your eagle example you are correct, if using back button focus and keeping it on track with the target it would not re-focus with each press of the shutter which is what we really want. When the focus is set to the shutter like normal, and when locked on and you press it again, the lens will hunt around which is very annoying! (lens focus chips are not as smart as us yet) haha

If I keep pressing the back focus button while the bird is in flight, that would seem to me to be just as difficult to keep the bird in focus as if I was using the shutter button to focus on the bird. There would again be times the lens would try to focus on open sky and hunt causing a complete out of focus to where I could not even see the bird if I were right on it (being completely out of focus)

How does a person learn to keep the bird exactly in the center of the photo at all times while the bird is flying to keep the photo in tack sharp focus?

I only get to see eagles in the cold winter months and I have to drive a couple hours away. Not that many times to practice and it will be even harder with a 500mm lens (once I get one) compared to the 300mm lens I currently have. Where I live there are not that many large birds. I do occasionally see a vulture from a distance, but do not always have the camera with me.


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Apr 02, 2011 08:36 |  #2437

Inspeqtor wrote in post #12136438 (external link)
I had another thought about this lens... I was thinking it might be a good idea to rent the lens before I commit to buying it to be sure I would be happy with it, but in my search for lens rental places none of them carry the Sigma 150-500. I found 2 or 3 that do carry the Sigma 50-500 but I just do not want to spend the extra cash to buy that lens.

Does anyone know of a reputable place that does rent the 150-500 lens?

I want to ask again if anyone knows of an online rental place that rents the 150-500 lens. If there are no places that rent that lens, if I were to rent the 50-500 would it have a near enough same feel since it only weighs 2.1 oz. lighter than the 150-500? I am pretty sure if I like the 50-500 I will wish I had the extra cash to buy that lens, but that is not gonna happen unless I win the lottery <smyle>


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MikeES
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Apr 02, 2011 08:48 |  #2438

You know what this thread could use?
More baboons ;-p
...taken with my 150-500.

IMAGE: http://www.michaelswerdlyk.com/z/MKIV9794.JPG

IMAGE: http://www.michaelswerdlyk.com/z/MKIV9780.JPG

IMAGE: http://www.michaelswerdlyk.com/z/MKIV9802.JPG

Mike (external link)
1D X | White Kiss X7 | White 40 F2.8 Pancake | 50 F1.2L | 100 F2.8L IS Macro | 300 F4L IS | 11-24 F4L | 24-70 F2.8L II | 70-200 F2.8L II IS | Σ 150-600 OS Sport
580EXII | AB1600 | ABR800 | 1.4x II | Lee SW150 II | Kenko DG Tubes

  
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DreDaze
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Apr 02, 2011 13:16 |  #2439

Inspeqtor wrote in post #12143396 (external link)
I want to ask again if anyone knows of an online rental place that rents the 150-500 lens. If there are no places that rent that lens, if I were to rent the 50-500 would it have a near enough same feel since it only weighs 2.1 oz. lighter than the 150-500? I am pretty sure if I like the 50-500 I will wish I had the extra cash to buy that lens, but that is not gonna happen unless I win the lottery <smyle>

as far as i know there isn't a place that rents the lens out...you could try to find one in person to test in the store/get a feel for it...or you could rent the 50-500mm if you're just interested in seeing what it does for you...

or you could buy a used copy....if you don't like it you can probably sell it for close to what you paid, and consider any loss a rental fee


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DreDaze
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Apr 02, 2011 15:53 |  #2440

IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5066/5581309816_ea3c5e4bbd_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/algregoire/5581​309816/  (external link)

IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5096/5582613755_a69f30956d_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/algregoire/5582​613755/  (external link)

IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5305/5582560013_46a13832f3_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/algregoire/5582​560013/  (external link)

IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5190/5583166358_a89112a293_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/algregoire/5583​166358/  (external link)

click for exif...all shot at 500mm though, just different degrees of cropping...

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soleful2001
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Apr 02, 2011 19:41 |  #2441

Sparrow


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Canon 50D, Canon 80D, Rokinon 8mm f3.5 Fisheye, Tamron 10-24, Canon 100mm f2.8 Macro, Canon 28mm f1.8, Canon 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM Lens,Tamron Di VC 70-200 f2.8,Tamron 2x teleconvertor
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dcasi34
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Apr 03, 2011 13:29 |  #2442

gabebalazs wrote in post #9933959 (external link)
Some action shots from today, I like a few of them a lot.

QUOTED IMAGE

QUOTED IMAGE

QUOTED IMAGE

QUOTED IMAGE



I have to agree your shots are so much better than others with same lens...no offense! What exactly are you doing in Post Processing?


Canon T2i Gripped| Canon 50 1.4| Canon 18-55 3.5-5.6| Canon 24-70 2.8| Sigma 70-200 2.8| Sigma 150-500 5-6.3| 580 EX|

  
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condyk
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Apr 03, 2011 13:52 |  #2443

Not sure it's post-processing. I've just picked up my third copy of this lens, it's just such a good all round long lens, and am looking forward to using it again.

Based on my experience of the first two you need to be a bit of a Zen master to make best use of it. In any sharp shot the focus accuracy has been critical. You can tell a shot where critical focus hasn't been achieved and where PP has been used to try and rescue. With the 150-500 you need to be aware of shake, sharpness of the image in the view-finder and the OS. When you let the OS settle and pay attention to the image in the view-finder and take care with your shutter press then you're likely to get a critically sharp shot. if all 'ducks aren't in a row' here then the image will likely be a tad out of focus and you get the very slightly soft, smeared detail that is apparent in many shots in this thread.

The other thing to remember is that the lens tends to perform best stopped down to f8.0. You need to experiment a little as some copies will perform better than others, same with most zooms. Some will do well at 500mm and some will be better at 450mm or so.

So, you need to hand-hold in a steady, relaxed manner, watch your breathing, watch the image sharpness in the viewfinder, pay attention to the OS and stop down and avoid, in some cases, 500mm.

With modern DSLR bodies you can up the ISO to get decent shutter speeds ... and depending on the body then noise shouldn't be too much of an issue. Again, you need to practice. Listen to the shutter and if it sounds too slow then change ISO rather than open up the aperture.

In terms of image quality this lens will never compete with the likes of the 400mm 4.0 L, 300mm 2.8 VR, 200-400mm 4.0 VR and so on, but get everything right you'll get some superb images and maybe you'll even achieve enlightenment ;-)a


https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1203740

  
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DreDaze
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Apr 03, 2011 13:55 |  #2444

dcasi34 wrote in post #12149566 (external link)
I have to agree your shots are so much better than others with same lens...no offense! What exactly are you doing in Post Processing?

you might want to send him a pm, as he's since moved on to a 100-400L, so i'm not sure how often he's checking back in here

here's one of his posts where he describes a bit about his workflow:
https://photography-on-the.net …p=11246850&post​count=2102

i'm going to have to look into the reduce noise effect...

for my shots i mainly just boost the contrast a bit, because it falls a little flat when at 500mm...


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MMURAD
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Apr 03, 2011 14:08 |  #2445

IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5023/5585621874_707da539fe_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/mikemurad/55856​21874/  (external link) IMG_9821 (external link) by Mike Murad (external link), on Flickr

IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5103/5585615106_479bfc19c4_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/mikemurad/55856​15106/  (external link) IMG_9638 (external link) by Mike Murad (external link), on Flickr

IMAGE: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5025/5585617114_766cfdbd30_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/mikemurad/55856​17114/  (external link) IMG_9646 (external link) by Mike Murad (external link), on Flickr

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Sigma APO 150-500mm F5-6.3 DG OS HSM - Bigmos
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