Using a light meter on the job

tim wrote in post #5734174
I tend to use the light meter mainly in the church, I take a reading then do a test shot. Often the RGB histogram doesn't reach the right side, so I increase exposure by a stop. Later I sometimes get blown channels, but easily recoverable (especially with the 40D HTP on).

See, this is why I don't trust the histogram. Blown channels are not recoverable.

I believe you're better off shooting what the meter tells you and then leaving the exposure compensation alone in PP. Otherwise you're just throwing information - you're overexposing during the shoot, then throw information out as you post process. So you lose time and information.

That said however, if they light is ugly a creative overexposure might hide something and improve the overall picture. That's where you don't blindly trust a meter and the artist within you has to make a decision. Blown highlights can be an artistic tool as well.

DocFrankenstein wrote in post #5734210
See, this is why I don't trust the histogram. Blown channels are not recoverable.

I believe you're better off shooting what the meter tells you and then leaving the exposure compensation alone in PP. Otherwise you're just throwing information - you're overexposing during the shoot, then throw information out as you post process. So you lose time and information.

That said however, if they light is ugly a creative overexposure might hide something and improve the overall picture. That's where you don't blindly trust a meter and the artist within you has to make a decision. Blown highlights can be an artistic tool as well.

I need to do some experimentation, both in a dark church and in full sunlight, with the meter reading but bracketed, judged later on the PC not on the camera.

tim wrote in post #5734294
I need to do some experimentation, both in a dark church and in full sunlight, with the meter reading but bracketed, judged later on the PC not on the camera.

Here's two exercises I did:
1) take a bunch of pictures with the dome up and pointing straight at the camera
2) take a bunch of pictures with the dome down and pointing straight toward the light source

You'll find your colors rich and slightly different. Basically, similar to what you'll find in hollywood movies.

DocFrankenstein wrote in post #5734341
Here's two exercises I did:
1) take a bunch of pictures with the dome up and pointing straight at the camera
2) take a bunch of pictures with the dome down and pointing straight toward the light source

You'll find your colors rich and slightly different. Basically, similar to what you'll find in hollywood movies.

You mean meter for both situations rather than shoot with the dome up/down?

tim wrote in post #5734542
You mean meter for both situations rather than shoot with the dome up/down?

What?

1) Dome up, meter toward the camera and shoot for the whole day like that
2) Dome down, meter toward the key light and shoot for another day

Compare the results. Over time you'll be able to tell where to point the meter and the highlights will fall exactly where you want them to.

DocFrankenstein wrote in post #5734558
What?

1) Dome up, meter toward the camera and shoot for the whole day like that
2) Dome down, meter toward the key light and shoot for another day

Compare the results. Over time you'll be able to tell where to point the meter and the highlights will fall exactly where you want them to.

I knew what you meant, but you said take a picture with the dome up and the dome down. It'd be more precise to say meter with the dome up, and dome down, then take the picture with both settings. I'm just being a pain in the butt