The Cn-4.x for AF/AE "*" button awkward

Karl C wrote in post #5720663
In C.Fn 4.3, by continuously holding down * to focus in AI Servo, I don't have to release shutter to refocus the shot. Even in C.Fn 4.1, having the * for focusing is better than relying on the shutter to handle focusing.

Try it for a month before making a decision.

I did try it and didn't like it. I couldn't use it for anything critical because it would just make me miss shots until I got used to it.

I don't use AI Servo.

I still don't see how using the * button is any better than the shutter button.

OdiN1701 wrote in post #5720931
I did try it and didn't like it. I couldn't use it for anything critical because it would just make me miss shots until I got used to it.

I don't use AI Servo.

I still don't see how using the * button is any better than the shutter button.

No worries - to each their own.

Hermeto wrote in post #5720488
With C.Fn. 4-x and FTM focusing lens, in AI Servo photographer has 3 focusing modes in one: AI Servo, if pressing * button continuously, One Shot if * is pressed and released and Manual.
All in one, with no need to change any camera setting.

Never thought of that, makes sense now that you bring it up. When shooting birds / wildlife I was always switching back and forth between shooting modes, looks like I don't have to. Thanks for the tip!

OdiN1701 wrote in post #5720619
So you're saying if I have burst on, and hold down the shutter for several shots, it's trying to autofocus on each shot, even when I have it set to one shot?

Or that by half pressing to autofocus, then fully depressing to take a shot, then half raising and then fully depressing again will autofocus between that? Because my camera doesn't do that.

I think I have total control of when I use autofocus. If I want to focus again or differently, I can fully raise the shutter button, then half depress to autofocus. Or I can half press it and then manually ajdust focus, then take the shot. Then I could half raise it and manually focus elsewhere and take another shot - all without autofocus engaging.

So I'm not understanding where this is coming from that I don't have control? It seems to work fine to me - am I not understanding something you're trying to tell me?

Most of these references are to AI Servo mode. Many prefer to use a back button to control AI Servo focus (holding the button down allows continual focus, letting up locks focus). That way the focus is independant of the shutter button. For single shot, it is just like pressing the shutter button halfway, so some who use only single shot like you are implying may not find it as useful.

SkipD wrote in post #5716833
If you favor letting the camera make decisions for you, then keep the camera set the way it came from the factory.

However, if you want the maximum control possible over the camera, the Custom Function 4 set to 1 is one of the tools you'd need. I use it all the time and will not switch.

This is um, bullsh!t. I use AI Servo quite a bit and have fewer problems using the shutter button "as designed" than when it's switched. While CF 4-1 works for you and some others, to me and some others it's unnatural to treat the camera like a game controller. That in no way means I'm letting the camera make any decisions for me.

cdifoto wrote in post #5726767
This is um, bullsh!t. I use AI Servo quite a bit and have fewer problems using the shutter button "as designed" than when it's switched. While CF 4-1 works for you and some others, to me and some others it's unnatural to treat the camera like a game controller. That in no way means I'm letting the camera make any decisions for me.

Each photographer can choose his/her own method, of course.

Because I choose to have mostly manual control of my camera - and occasionally, but not always, trigger autofocus on for a shot - the CF4=1 works best for me. I don't have to ever turn AF off at the lens, either. All of my lenses have full-time manual capability.

Whatever method you use I think it is very usefull to seperate the focus from the AE. Whichever one you remove from the shutter button doesn't matter as long as you are comfortable with it.

Diesel_Dog wrote in post #5726408
When shooting birds / wildlife I was always switching back and forth between shooting modes, looks like I don't have to.

My biggest problem was convincing my thumb that it didn't need to press the * button before every shot when I had manually focused previously EXACTLY where I wanted to. I'm getting better, but that * is such a reflex for sports shooting.

bohdank wrote in post #5727567
Whatever method you use I think it is very usefull to seperate the focus from the AE. Whichever one you remove from the shutter button doesn't matter as long as you are comfortable with it.

I never even use the * button at all, since I shoot in manual. There is no need for locking exposure.

But even in Manual mode, doesn't Exposure Lock happen when you 1/2 depress the shutter release?

Whether you need it or not?

There's no exposure lock in Manual mode...
I'm with bohdank on this one: Even in Manual, if you use CFn4-1 you can seperate focus from exposure: You can pre-focus for instance, and then making an exposure without the camera wanting to AF again...

WaltA wrote in post #5746737
But even in Manual mode, doesn't Exposure Lock happen when you 1/2 depress the shutter release?

Whether you need it or not?

No. Exposure is set by me. It's "locked" to whatever I tell it to be.

Exposure lock is only useful for Av/Tv modes, because you are not in complete control in those modes.

Say you want a faster shutter in order not to blow out a bright background - lock exposure on the background, then focus/recompose and shoot.

If you didn't lock exposure on the background - as soon as you filled the frame with your subject, the exposure would change and then if you were in Av mode the shutter speed would go down and blow out the background even though that's not what you wanted. That's all exposure lock is for.

SkipD wrote in post #5720023
snip ....... With the right lenses, you can even focus manually without having to switch autofocus off.snip ......

I have a Canon 28-135mm IS ... Does this lens allow me to manually focus without having to switch autofocus(on the lens) to OFF?? I mean, I see the 'ring' that allows me to change focus, but when I press the shutter (AF-on), it refocuses on the subject ...

So I guess my question is twofold - does that lens support what you're saying, and how do i do that? (thanks)

OdiN1701 wrote in post #5747256
No. Exposure is set by me. It's "locked" to whatever I tell it to be.

Exposure lock is only useful for Av/Tv modes, because you are not in complete control in those modes.

Say you want a faster shutter in order not to blow out a bright background - lock exposure on the background, then focus/recompose and shoot.

If you didn't lock exposure on the background - as soon as you filled the frame with your subject, the exposure would change and then if you were in Av mode the shutter speed would go down and blow out the background even though that's not what you wanted. That's all exposure lock is for.

Right, switching between AV/TV and Manual makes me schizophrenic.
Thanks for explaining.

Cody21 wrote in post #5747272
I have a Canon 28-135mm IS ... Does this lens allow me to manually focus without having to switch autofocus(on the lens) to OFF?? I mean, I see the 'ring' that allows me to change focus, but when I press the shutter (AF-on), it refocuses on the subject ...

So I guess my question is twofold - does that lens support what you're saying, and how do i do that? (thanks)

From Canon's web site:

Standard zoom lens with an Image Stabilizer and high zoom ratio. With the Image Stabilizer turned on, you can obtain sharp, natural-looking pictures in dim lighting without using flash or a tripod. Very handy for places where flash is prohibited. Uses ring-type USM for swift, silent autofocus and full-time manual focus. Closest focusing distance is 20 in. (50cm).

The "full-time manual focus" means that you can crank on the focusing ring anytime and not hurt the lens. However, if you have the AF switch turned on and do not set Custom Function 4 to move AF actuation to the * button, you will find the camera messing up your manual focus when you press the shutter release button. This is why I use CF4=1 on my 20D ALL the time.