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FORUMS Photo Sharing & Discussion Motorsports 
Thread started 18 Jun 2008 (Wednesday) 13:25
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"Late Model" racing photo. How does this look on your screen?

 
tkoutdoor
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Jun 18, 2008 13:25 |  #1

Here's a "Late Model" stock car racing at the South Sound Speedway in Rochester, WA. My monitor at work seems dark and this was a pic that was a struggle to nail down the dark versus light tones since it was backlit. How does it look on your monitor. Here's a link:

http://farm3.static.fl​ickr.com …89870881_15bd6f​128a_o.jpg (external link)

This was shot with the 100-400L IS and a 20D. The rest of the exif data is intact. Thanks for looking.


Canon ~ 7D, 1D MkIIn, 5D, 20D, 10D, 100-400L IS, 70-200 2.8L IS, 24-105 f4L IS, 17-40 f4L, 135mm f2L, 85mm 1.8, 50mm 1.4, 50mm 2.5 macro, Ext. tubes, TC's 1.4 & 2.0, Feisol 3441-S CF Tpod, Gitzo Traveler Mpod, Acratech ballhead, 550EX, 200EG bag, Epson Pro 3800 printer.

  
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dunganick
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Jun 18, 2008 14:22 |  #2

looks like you were shooting with the sun behind the subject, i would have tried to move to another position to avoid this tbh.

Does look slightly dark, but equally the highlights look quite bright.


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DC ­ Fan
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Jun 18, 2008 14:29 |  #3

Looks okay from here.




  
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tkoutdoor
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Jun 18, 2008 15:48 |  #4

dunganick wrote in post #5746619 (external link)
looks like you were shooting with the sun behind the subject, i would have tried to move to another position to avoid this tbh.

Does look slightly dark, but equally the highlights look quite bright.

Yes, I've said the same thing under my breath many times. This is shot from spectator side of the track. The rest of the track doesn't accommodate people and is off limits. Even with my pit passes it doesn't get any better. GRRR I keep telling my buddy who races there that they put the stands on the wrong side of the track. Even the track photogs can't get good pics here in the daytime. I've thought about using my Better Beamer with High Speed sync on my 550EX. I might do that one of these days. Also the fences are high enough it's hard to find any place to shoot over them so you're shooting between poles in short spaces already. They also block people from getting any closer than about 15 or 20 feet from the fence. On that account you can't shoot through the fence either. If the fence were lower or I could get closer I would have lots of options. I bought a one step fold up stool this week that I'm gonna try to get in with to maybe help with the fence height, but the day shots are still backlit unfortunately.

Thx for the input. :-) Nice photos on your site. I might end up looking for another track that my friend races at if there's one somewhat close.


Canon ~ 7D, 1D MkIIn, 5D, 20D, 10D, 100-400L IS, 70-200 2.8L IS, 24-105 f4L IS, 17-40 f4L, 135mm f2L, 85mm 1.8, 50mm 1.4, 50mm 2.5 macro, Ext. tubes, TC's 1.4 & 2.0, Feisol 3441-S CF Tpod, Gitzo Traveler Mpod, Acratech ballhead, 550EX, 200EG bag, Epson Pro 3800 printer.

  
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tkoutdoor
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Jun 18, 2008 15:50 |  #5

DC Fan wrote in post #5746667 (external link)
Looks okay from here.

Thanks


Canon ~ 7D, 1D MkIIn, 5D, 20D, 10D, 100-400L IS, 70-200 2.8L IS, 24-105 f4L IS, 17-40 f4L, 135mm f2L, 85mm 1.8, 50mm 1.4, 50mm 2.5 macro, Ext. tubes, TC's 1.4 & 2.0, Feisol 3441-S CF Tpod, Gitzo Traveler Mpod, Acratech ballhead, 550EX, 200EG bag, Epson Pro 3800 printer.

  
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Cadwell
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Jun 19, 2008 07:12 as a reply to  @ tkoutdoor's post |  #6

It really only takes a couple of clicks to lighten those shadows up.


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tkoutdoor
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Jun 19, 2008 10:11 as a reply to  @ Cadwell's post |  #7

Thanks for the reply. By the look of your editing adjustments it looks like you used the shadow/highlight command from Photoshop. Is that what you did or something else?

I wasn't really sure that the image was actually dark. Since your edit looks reasonable on the monitor that I thought may have been dark I think the monitor I questioned might be right and the machine that I did the editing on didn't respond properly to the Eye One color calibration. The processed file on my editing machine looks lighter still than that. I've been questioning it's output. I think I'll have to start debugging it. I now have my desktop (machine 2) upgraded to take Lightroom and CS3 (had Win2k on it) and there is a difference between the two machines when calibrated with the same tool. I didn't know which to trust. My printer is hooked to that machine and so far seems to print properly in the few photos I've tested since it's new configuration.

EDIT: Actually no HSS would be necessary here as I'm already typically under 1/250th. Using it might be a recognizable issue for the drivers to whereas a single flash in their peripheral vision should go unnoticed. Could have just as easily been the glint of the sun off of a windshield.


Canon ~ 7D, 1D MkIIn, 5D, 20D, 10D, 100-400L IS, 70-200 2.8L IS, 24-105 f4L IS, 17-40 f4L, 135mm f2L, 85mm 1.8, 50mm 1.4, 50mm 2.5 macro, Ext. tubes, TC's 1.4 & 2.0, Feisol 3441-S CF Tpod, Gitzo Traveler Mpod, Acratech ballhead, 550EX, 200EG bag, Epson Pro 3800 printer.

  
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"Late Model" racing photo. How does this look on your screen?
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