IR Test with new Photoshop steps

I am testing out some new steps in photshop... would love to hear some CC.

Here is the original out of the camera (sharpen, watermark and reduce only):

HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'text/html' | Byte size: ZERO

HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'text/html' | Byte size: ZERO

Hi Aram,
I do a lot of IR photography I hope I can help you.
What kind of filter did you use?
I think your pic might be a little overexposed.
The WB seems to be wrong, did you shoot in raw right? If so then white balance selecting the trees/foliage to be white. You might also try to invert the red and blue channels.


Luigi

I'm no IR expert, but they look to be about 2 stops overexposed to me.

luigis wrote in post #5759909
Hi Aram,
I do a lot of IR photography I hope I can help you.
What kind of filter did you use?
I think your pic might be a little overexposed.
The WB seems to be wrong, did you shoot in raw right? If so then white balance selecting the trees/foliage to be white. You might also try to invert the red and blue channels.


Luigi

I am using a 58mm Hoya R72 0.75 pitch filter.

The EXIF should be in tact but here it is:

XTi
30.0 secs at f/5.6
28mm focal length (28-80mm f/3.5-5.6) (its the only semi-decent lens I have that is 58mm)
0 EV
ISO equiv 400
Manual exposure
RAW

I actually was doing the timing manually but none of mine were coming out the way I thought they should so I set the shutter to 30 seconds to see what would happen.

I am unsure on how to "flip" the channels. Can you clarify?

Thanks.

I would start by trying to bring the exposure down from the RAW file, try 1 or 2 stops down, next time you will be able to calculate the exposure time better
Then correct the white balance manually the picture you posted has the color temperature too high for infrared.
Sometimes the result is good enough after correcting the exposure and WB, sometimes you want to invert the red and blue channels.
To swap the blue and redchannels from the channels tool in PS bring red to 0% and blue to 100% in the red output and red to 100% and blue to 0% in the blue output.

Luigi

Ok reduced exposure by -1 (3 stops). Swapped the Red and Blue, but now its way too blue.

HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'text/html' | Byte size: ZERO

New test image. Just to complicate things a little more for myself I added a polarization filter to the mix.

This is the post PP shot, with just a level change.

HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'text/html' | Byte size: ZERO

I think it is still overexposed, the whites in the foliage are clipped.
The second one looks better. It will probably be better with a shorter exposure with less blur from movement.
One thing you can do is to configure the histogram to be RGB (default is luminance) and check the RGB histogram after you take the picture, when shooting IR the important thing is to check that the red channel is not overexposed/clipped. That can help you adjust the exposure properly. With some practice you will develop an IR meter on your eye and you will be able to say "17 seconds" from the scene and ambient light and get it right.

I know this isn't critique, but the original reminds me of cotton candy... yum.

luigis wrote in post #5764909
I think it is still overexposed, the whites in the foliage are clipped.
The second one looks better. It will probably be better with a shorter exposure with less blur from movement.
One thing you can do is to configure the histogram to be RGB (default is luminance) and check the RGB histogram after you take the picture, when shooting IR the important thing is to check that the red channel is not overexposed/clipped. That can help you adjust the exposure properly. With some practice you will develop an IR meter on your eye and you will be able to say "17 seconds" from the scene and ambient light and get it right.

Wow, I think this was only a 10 second exposure. I think I did a 7 seconds and it didn't capture much. Even this was too dark to me before I brought it into Photoshop. I must be over doing the levels. I'll try again.