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Thread started 21 Jun 2008 (Saturday) 03:41
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MTB shoot tips

 
vodkatart
Hatchling
9 posts
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Jun 21, 2008 03:41 |  #1

I've picked up a few tips about shooting biking (panning etc) but i could do with some more. I understand my camera pretty well but shooting MTB and riders in action is new to me. I at the moment tend to use a high iso and high shutter speed, but this gives the image a flat feel and does not shoot images of MTB that seems to be currenly in fashion. I understand that quite alot of photographer's use flash to fill in the shadows, but im unsure if to use 2nd curtain or not plus what shutter speed and iso do they use? is thier a general rule or is it to take each situation at its own merits. Any pointers would be appriciated.

Thanks




  
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maxwolfie
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Jun 21, 2008 04:06 |  #2

I need some help too.. I only have a G9 though. I had a go at panning today, but didn't have much luck. As above, my photos come out a little flat and grainy (understandably) at anything above ISO 200.

vodka: What's the 1st/2nd curtain flash thing anyways? I don't know what it does.

Here's a pic from today:

IMAGE NOT FOUND
HTTP response: NOT FOUND | MIME changed to 'image/gif' | Redirected to error image by FLICKR

http://www.redbubble.c​om/people/goclifford13​/art (external link)Greg Clifford Design (external link)

  
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vodkatart
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Hatchling
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Jun 21, 2008 05:05 as a reply to  @ maxwolfie's post |  #3

see here https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=52630
it explains it better than i can.




  
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|Sam|
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Location: Wollongong, Australia
     
Jun 21, 2008 05:19 as a reply to  @ vodkatart's post |  #4

6 quick tips:

  • Try to shoot in even light, either full shade or full light.
  • Try to make sure that there are no branches that seem to be comingout of a rider's head, that can ruin a perfect image.
  • Purchase some flashes, this allows slower shutter speed but still freezes the rider.
  • Learn panning technique, this adds a improvement to your photos, gives a feel of speed.
  • One rule you should know is that you should be able to see where the rider is coming from, and where he is going. Its harder, but it looks better when the rider is entering the shot than exiting, centring the rider isnt usually the best option.
  • Always practice, techniques, composition and lighting, just like any photography it is the only way to improve:).


Have fun with it, these are the 6 things I always try to remember when shooting mtb:)

flickr (external link)

  
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nick400d
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Location: Croydon, Sydney, Aus FPS: 6.5
     
Jun 21, 2008 05:24 as a reply to  @ vodkatart's post |  #5

1: Get your lighting dialed! if you can light the riders eyes/face well it will add so much to your photo and it will also create a strong focus point in your photo.

IMAGE: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3089/2583030933_75a0b7f295.jpg?v=0

2: Have the rider seperated from the background, and keep your background simple.
IMAGE: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3276/2563476299_d0d794587c.jpg?v=0

3: I think this is most important. Capture somthing interesting, somthing exciting. Stacks work the best:lol:
IMAGE: http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2129/1962889545_fdea865f8b.jpg?v=0

Canon 7D - Tokina 10-17mm Fisheye - SIGMA 24-70 2.8 ex - Canon 70-200mm F/4L - 50mm f1.8 - 430ex flash - 2 Vivitar 285hv's
Nicholas Bucher - 17y/o - Sydney, Australia

  
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khall
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Location: Wollongong Australia.
     
Jun 21, 2008 05:29 |  #6

|Sam| wrote in post #5763382 (external link)
  • Always practice, techniques, composition and lighting, just like any photography it is the only way to improve:).

Have fun with it, these are the 6 things I always try to remember when shooting mtb:)

Sam. Excellent advice. It really is all about "Practice, Practice and more Practice"


YNWA.

  
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vodkatart
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Hatchling
9 posts
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Jun 21, 2008 05:41 as a reply to  @ khall's post |  #7

cheers guys for the tips, but technically is their a spacfic iso and shutter speed setting or is it a case just try something and see of it works.




  
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nick400d
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Location: Croydon, Sydney, Aus FPS: 6.5
     
Jun 21, 2008 05:46 as a reply to  @ vodkatart's post |  #8

Just see what works for each situation.
When using flash try, try under-expose the ambient light by about -1stop. This should make the rider brighter (but not too much) than the background, making it sort of 'pop' or 'stick out'


Canon 7D - Tokina 10-17mm Fisheye - SIGMA 24-70 2.8 ex - Canon 70-200mm F/4L - 50mm f1.8 - 430ex flash - 2 Vivitar 285hv's
Nicholas Bucher - 17y/o - Sydney, Australia

  
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mikeb540
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Jun 21, 2008 21:04 as a reply to  @ nick400d's post |  #9

ill be testing my skills on this soon, i did my first trail ride in a long time today so i can scout out some shot for the bike shop i work at, found a few cool photospots, so i hope to test those soon,, that endo shot is nutz,, im guessing he earned a ' over the bar scar club' shirt from that one, ouch!
mike


Canon Rebel XTi
Canon 28-105mm USM
Sigma 10-20mm
my Work: http://www.outdoorvent​uresschwinn.com/ (external link)
Photo Gallery: www.mbphotos.exposurem​anager.com (external link)

  
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