dougsturgess wrote in post #5814842
So, when you took this picture
http://tailwind.smugmug.com …542_BPwGN#313672875_YtfFi
and you don't need the flash output, do you have to turn toe strobes off manually? Are you shooting in RAW & white balancing afterward? I noticed most of the beginning images all have a blue cast.
Thanks for sharing. I hear Ikelite is replacing the DS 125 with the DS 160 out later in July. It has an LED modeling light which I assume would save a lot of battery power at night.
If I put the strobe on the Ikelite housing with the G9, TTL means you just focus & shoot like you normally would, right? Does it use the cameras preflash to fire or do you turn the onboard flash off?
Thanks.
So many question! Where do I start?
The photo in question of the 5 tarpin was taken with the flash on. Because of the distance of the subjects, the flash had no effect on the image. As to turning them on or off, you can do that on each strobe. They have a 4 position switch, OFF/TEST/ON/ON w/ MODELING LIGHT. It is simple enough to turn them off. There is a second switch that selects the light output (1/2, 1/4, etc or TTL). I never used them in anything except TTL because the housing has a connection to the camera's hotshoe and can "talk" to the strobes to set power output.
Virtually none of those images have been manipulated, except to lighten or darken. I was shooting in RAW with the 30D, but since there is no way to know what the colors should be, there is almost no way to color balance the images after the fact. The blue cast to some images is just normal light as seen be the camera or human eye under the circumstances. Below about 10 feet, there is no more red light, and green goes pretty soon after that. The only time you see color in an underwater photograph is when you added light via a strobe. Most often, the blue cast is because either the flash didn't fire (quite rare, but possible if the batteries were getting weak and I didn't give the strobes time to recycle) or the object being photographed was too far away. One of the first things an underwater photographer has to learn is to get closer. Some of the people on this trip, who are exceptionally skilled and experienced underwater photographers, would tell me after a dive that they wanted to come up to me and just shove me in closer to whatever I was trying to capture. You just gotta get close.
I can't speak to any future offerings by Ikelite, but send an email to Bob Stubbs (he goes by Stubby) at ikelite@ikelite.com
and ask him. He is the Sales Manager for Ikelite and a really nice guy. Don't forget to report back here about what he says.
About your G9, yes, you just point and shoot. TTL means that the strobe and camera are communicating via the Ikelite sync cord. It is pretty much just set it and forget it. There is no preflash from the camera, all though you can buy a slave sensor and trigger the external stobes via the onboard flash. But if you have an Ikelite housing, it makes WAY more sense to use an Ikelite sync cord and get the most reliable triggering system you can.
Regards