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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 29 Jun 2008 (Sunday) 15:18
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580ex II broken or me very stupid?!

 
meady100
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Jun 29, 2008 15:18 |  #1

Hi!

I have a new 580ex II and it's been great fun up until two days ago. Now it just won't seem to trigger in *any* camera mode, auto, TV, AV or M, even in very low light conditions. Neither does changing the camera mode from Multi, M or ETTL help (I have noticed that this sometimes changes to read TTL, but I don't know if this is normal behaviour). I know the bulb isn't broken, because pressing the Pilot light *will* pop the flash. It's the only thing that does. I have put in brand new batteries also to no avail. I have tried starving both the camera and flash of power for 30 minutes to reset any settings I may have inadvertently put in.

Anyone have any ideas? I'm meant to be shooting a portrait of a client tomorrow. I'm going to look like a right idiot!!

Thanks for any help :-)

Steve M.




  
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lmulderi
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Jun 29, 2008 16:00 |  #2

I think there is a custom function to let the AF assist beam go and not pop the flash so check that.

I've heard that when you tighten down the flash it can push the contacts off the camera too sometimes.




  
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jmb4370
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Jun 29, 2008 17:22 |  #3

If the "Test" button will pop the flash, then try bending a paper clip to touch the center pin to the side pin of the flast foot to see if possibly there is an issure with how the flash is getting contact to the camera hot shoe. If the bent paper clip will fire the flash, but it will not then fire in the camera hot shoe, then the issue is with the camera hot shoe. Is the shoe itself loose, and the screws need to be tightened?

Do you have any other camera with any kind of hot shoe you can put the flash into to see if it can be triggered?

When the flash changes from eTTl to TTL in the display it usually is something to do with a pin not making proper contact.


Michael
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meady100
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Jun 29, 2008 18:11 as a reply to  @ jmb4370's post |  #4

ah this sounds highly likely. Wobbling the flash in it's mount seems to cause a change between ettl and ttl. Confession: I did drop the whole damn thing, but caught it on my foot! Would be very surprised if this damaged anything though? Very minor shock... Even so, please keep giving feedback, its so frustrating! Maybe there is a shoe issue. Seemed to work so well last week, now nothing...




  
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jmb4370
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Jun 29, 2008 19:00 |  #5

Try sliding the flash in the camera hot shoe, but don't lock it in place. Press down on the flash with the camera on a hard flat surfaceto effectively press the flash into the hot shoe WITHOUT locking it in, and then fire the camera, and I am sure the flash will fire.

If indeed so, it is a contact issue, most likely of the camera hot shoe.


Michael
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DDCSD
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Jun 29, 2008 19:26 as a reply to  @ jmb4370's post |  #6

lmulderi wrote in post #5815896 (external link)
I think there is a custom function to let the AF assist beam go and not pop the flash so check that.

I've heard that when you tighten down the flash it can push the contacts off the camera too sometimes.


Did you check your custom functions like above poster suggested? The CF is set in the camera for this.

Also, just a wild guess, but have you tried fresh batteries? What type of batteries do you use?


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ZGMF-X20A
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Jun 29, 2008 22:46 |  #7

check if the pilot button turns red. If it's red and not firing, but will fire when pressing the button then it should be contact.


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Sydney2K
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Jun 29, 2008 22:57 |  #8

I would say the problems is in the contact points since you mentioned that it changes from ETTL to TTL.




  
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Mark ­ Vuleta
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Jun 30, 2008 01:34 |  #9

What camera are you using?

I and a few other people have had issues with the 350D & Canons new off shoe cord, which uses the same pin type & tensioning system as the 580EX Mk2. It was resolved by fileing (carefully) the top of the hot shoe on the camera.

It doesn't take much to stuff up a connection. The plastic surrounding the hot shoe connections appeared to be sticking up above the metal connection pins (minute amount). Take the plastic down to the pin level.

If it is a 350D (its the only camera that I know that has this issue), take your batteries out of the camera before proceeding to file & make sure that you clean up any debris before re-powering the camera.

Cheers

Mark




  
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gofer
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Jun 30, 2008 02:23 as a reply to  @ Mark Vuleta's post |  #10

You haven't simply 'disabled' the flash from the Flash Control menu have you? (assuming 40D here)


Steve.

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meady100
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Jun 30, 2008 03:22 |  #11

Thanks for the replies and suggestions while I've been asleep, everyone! Just got the camera out and tried shooting and had the same problem, then unlocked the mount, pushed down firmly and took a pic - Flash! And it's a 400d. This is good news in many ways. I'll just have to really examine what is going on I guess, maybe the lock where it forces down the weatherproofing is levering the contacts up slightly.




  
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Mark ­ Vuleta
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Jun 30, 2008 03:41 |  #12

Sounds like the same issue with the 350D & the newer style pins. If your game, have a go with a fine file or some sandpaper.




  
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meady100
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Jun 30, 2008 04:15 as a reply to  @ Mark Vuleta's post |  #13

Which bits did you mean? The plastic to the left and right of the contacts on the camera seem to be metal with a very thin layer of plastic. Or did you mean the plastic which is in the middle of the contacts, and makes a sort of mini 'spanner' shape?




  
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Mark ­ Vuleta
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Jun 30, 2008 04:20 |  #14

meady100 wrote in post #5819115 (external link)
Which bits did you mean? did you mean the plastic which is in the middle of the contacts, and makes a sort of mini 'spanner' shape?

Yep, thats the area.




  
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meady100
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Jun 30, 2008 07:21 |  #15

Almost worked. It now just needs the most fractional pressure pulling the unit backward to make it pop. For now I have just wedged a small piece of folded cardboard under the protruding flash front. Doesn't look very professional though! Thanks very much for solving my problem.




  
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580ex II broken or me very stupid?!
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