Getting white balance right to start

The value of having the Black White and Gray is to see 3 properly developed peaks in your histogram indicating that your exposure is not blowing out the white and also not losing the detail in the shadows (black being clipped).

That's one of the benefits of this tool. It's both in one and very handy. And, the DVD that comes with it has several good lessons on it.

Charles, I am finding this very Interesting
My question is, do you have to use a incident meter to start?
Why not just use the in camera meter with ETTL II flash?

It's amazing how reading different views help me focus on the problem I'm having. I went back to the original post, again watched the short video provided on the link (not the one that comes with the product), and this time my question is pretty much answered. The first step is to set the initial basic exposure and the video suggests that with only the momentary illumination provided by flash, the incident meter is a necessity to measure the light hitting the subject. If I'm interpreting correctly -- set the initial exposure based on this reading -- then using the black, gray, and white card ajust the exposure to make sure all three values are included in the histogram and the white is not blown out -- then use the pure white card to set the white balance without further adjusting the exposure.
If I am right, I'd like to immediately move to the head of the class. If that isn't possible I'll settle for taking better photos and thank everyone for contributing to this.
Jim

boomer1959 wrote:
Charles, I am finding this very Interesting
My question is, do you have to use a incident meter to start?
Why not just use the in camera meter with ETTL II flash?

If you are using ETTL flash (Canon dedicated) your WB should be pretty darn close. Given that they flash is a Canon, you should just set the camera to flash.

However, not every situation is ETTL with Canon flash. Sometimes you have a mix of ambient and flash light. Sometimes you might use studio strobes with different modifiers. Etc. There are many possibilities.

If you are using ETTL, then you are relying on the camer and flash (computers therein) to get the exposure right. Incident metering doesn't really make sense because each time you take the pic, the camera and flash are going to re-evaluate.

Make sense?

I think you're right on. After you get the exposure dead on, shoot the white target (2 stops tighter) for your WB.

Go to the head of the class. Take $200. Pass go, etc!!

Anyway, my main point in posting this is that I see so many people struggle. I know there are homemade solutions and cheaper solutions and more expensive solutions. There are many solutions. But, I KNOW this one works. And if your pics of Uncle Frank and aunt Sally are as important to you as mine are to me, it's worth taking the time and trouble to NAIL it.