Approve the Cookies
This website uses cookies to improve your user experience. By using this site, you agree to our use of cookies and our Privacy Policy.
OK
Forums  •   • New posts  •   • RTAT  •   • 'Best of'  •   • Gallery  •   • Gear
Guest
Forums  •   • New posts  •   • RTAT  •   • 'Best of'  •   • Gallery  •   • Gear
Register to forums    Log in

 
FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 08 Jul 2008 (Tuesday) 04:27
Search threadPrev/next
sponsored links (only for non-logged)

Advice anybody?

 
fubarhouse
Senior Member
Avatar
480 posts
Joined Jun 2008
Location: Canberra, Australia
     
Jul 08, 2008 04:27 |  #1

I've been taking photos for a while now, and one issue I'm always running into is shadows.
For Example, at a Zoo, getting a photo of an animal and many shadows get in the road, making the shot useless for display purposes, would a flash fix this, or do I need to think outside the box?

Also, I've noticed in the people section there are wonderful and occasionally not so good attempts at getting a line of people at different distances with almost equal lighting, no over or under exposure. How is this achieved?

Thanks in advance :):)


Canon 40D, 580EXII, BG-E2N, RS-80N3 (Remote), Velbon Vel-flo 5 PH 248 (Tripod), Velbon RUP-43 (Monopod), Hoya CP Filters
Canon EF 50mm F/1.4 USM Canon EFS 17-85/4.0-5.6 IS USM, Canon EF 28-300mm F/3.5-5.6 L IS USM, Canon EF 100-400mm F/4.5-5.6 L IS USM.
My Gear | My Website (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
tim
Light Bringer
Avatar
51,010 posts
Likes: 375
Joined Nov 2004
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
     
Jul 08, 2008 06:13 |  #2

Can you should a pic of the shadows getting in the road? I don't understand.

Re people in lines with equal exposure you need the light source an equal distance from each (eg the sun), or multiple flash units.


Professional wedding photographer, solution architect and general technical guy with multiple Amazon Web Services certifications.
Read all my FAQs (wedding, printing, lighting, books, etc)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Banno
Senior Member
Avatar
783 posts
Joined Mar 2008
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
     
Jul 08, 2008 06:45 |  #3

Yeah if you can find a pic that shows what you mean it might help us out...

Love the pics from your website.
And I just twigged where I know you from! Hows life on AussieV8 these days? I havent been on there for ages!


~~ Shane ~~

NILMDTS (external link)
| Shane Bannister Photography (external link) | GEAR LISThttp://cgi.ebay.com.au …eName=STRK:MESE​:IT&ih=016 (external link) | FEEDBACK

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Gatorboy
Goldmember
Avatar
2,483 posts
Likes: 2
Joined May 2005
Location: Bel Air, MD
     
Jul 08, 2008 07:46 |  #4

A more descriptive title to your post may help with getting more responses.


Dave Hoffmann

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
fubarhouse
THREAD ­ STARTER
Senior Member
Avatar
480 posts
Joined Jun 2008
Location: Canberra, Australia
     
Jul 08, 2008 10:24 |  #5

Banno wrote in post #5870946 (external link)
Yeah if you can find a pic that shows what you mean it might help us out...

Love the pics from your website.
And I just twigged where I know you from! Hows life on AussieV8 these days? I havent been on there for ages!

Thanks Shane, You'll find I'm very frequently on AussieV8, I just don't post that often. Love that place, not as much as I love this forum however.
Here are some similar examples of what I'm getting at. I'm just trying to get past sunny/cloudy areas for a decent consistant light, much more common in the motorsports field. You'll notice they have images close and far, and the subject in the middle - however I can't get past having a good light amount on the subject and not wanting the tree (closer) to be too overexposed. I think I might be asking for too much.

IMAGE NOT FOUND
HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'text/html' | Byte size: ZERO

IMAGE NOT FOUND
HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'text/html' | Byte size: ZERO

IMAGE NOT FOUND
HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'text/html' | Byte size: ZERO


As always, I'm wanting to improve, so any details will help, even if you say I'm asking for the impossible. Might have to use bracket mode and edit it the way I want. Thanks again!!

Canon 40D, 580EXII, BG-E2N, RS-80N3 (Remote), Velbon Vel-flo 5 PH 248 (Tripod), Velbon RUP-43 (Monopod), Hoya CP Filters
Canon EF 50mm F/1.4 USM Canon EFS 17-85/4.0-5.6 IS USM, Canon EF 28-300mm F/3.5-5.6 L IS USM, Canon EF 100-400mm F/4.5-5.6 L IS USM.
My Gear | My Website (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Rudi
Goldmember
Avatar
3,751 posts
Likes: 1
Joined Mar 2002
Location: Australia
     
Jul 08, 2008 11:15 |  #6

From what you've shown, it's clear that the elephant is your focus here - spot metering for the elephant would have solved your problem, without any need for flash.


• Wedding Photographer - Sydney and Wollongong (external link)
• Borrowed Moment (blog) (external link)

Life is uncertain. Eat dessert first.

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Titus213
Cream of the Crop
Avatar
19,403 posts
Gallery: 4 photos
Likes: 36
Joined Feb 2005
Location: Kalama, WA USA
     
Jul 08, 2008 11:53 |  #7

Elephants generally make great meter and white balance aids. I thought about adding one to my kit but the downsides out-weighed the uses (as did the elephant).

Spot metering on the elephant will get the elephant metered correctly but the surrounding scenery would still have exposure problems.

Any chance you could include the exif on those images? #2 is what I would expect, it's typical of average metering with a backlit subject. The others look like spot metering gone awry.

BTW - shooting on cloudy days helps too. Or other times of the day. Early morning, later afternoon.


Dave
Perspiring photographer.
Visit NorwoodPhotos.comexternal link

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
tim
Light Bringer
Avatar
51,010 posts
Likes: 375
Joined Nov 2004
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
     
Jul 08, 2008 16:34 |  #8

Any time you have a bright background and something in the foreground in shadow you expose for the background, and use a flash to light the subject (elephant) in the foreground. As the elephant's dark you'd want FEC of 0 or -1.


Professional wedding photographer, solution architect and general technical guy with multiple Amazon Web Services certifications.
Read all my FAQs (wedding, printing, lighting, books, etc)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
FlashZebra
This space available
Avatar
4,427 posts
Joined Mar 2006
Location: Northern Kentucky
     
Jul 08, 2008 16:42 |  #9

To answer in a more general manner.

Yes, a flash would really help in these situations where you have a scene with a huge dynamic range (very bright areas, and very dense shadows).

The flash would allow you to bring the lighting level in the shadows up to, or close to the bright areas. This would decrease the dynamic range of the scene and help tame your problem.

I also suggest a title that is less ambiguous so those that can help are likely to read the thread.

Enjoy! Lon


*
http://flashzebra.com/ (external link)
*

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Banno
Senior Member
Avatar
783 posts
Joined Mar 2008
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
     
Jul 09, 2008 02:48 |  #10

A flash will definitely help out here, maybe source a 430EX or a 580EXII (depending on the weight of your wallet) that way the ETTL will help you out.

Set the meter mode to spot meter, meter off the sky (set your exposure while pointing at the sky behind your focus point) then recompose focus on your target and fire away!

Hope that helps, and dont hate me if I spelt out the obvious to you, just tryin to help and not sure what level your on... ;)


~~ Shane ~~

NILMDTS (external link)
| Shane Bannister Photography (external link) | GEAR LISThttp://cgi.ebay.com.au …eName=STRK:MESE​:IT&ih=016 (external link) | FEEDBACK

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Titus213
Cream of the Crop
Avatar
19,403 posts
Gallery: 4 photos
Likes: 36
Joined Feb 2005
Location: Kalama, WA USA
     
Jul 09, 2008 09:51 |  #11

What are the distances involved here? That sun looks like it will keep the shutter above max sync speed even at a high f-stop. Flash range will be seriously impacted.


Dave
Perspiring photographer.
Visit NorwoodPhotos.comexternal link

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
fubarhouse
THREAD ­ STARTER
Senior Member
Avatar
480 posts
Joined Jun 2008
Location: Canberra, Australia
     
Jul 09, 2008 10:11 |  #12

I was about 10-15 meters from the elephant, I'll get the exif up soon, on a busy schedule at the moment. Thanks for the feedback, wasn't entirely sure about metering off the sky, can you enlighten me exactly how to do this?

edit: Yea know thesetting, not sure how to meter from the point though.

Can't believe I've gone so long without realising the entire technique.... lol.


Canon 40D, 580EXII, BG-E2N, RS-80N3 (Remote), Velbon Vel-flo 5 PH 248 (Tripod), Velbon RUP-43 (Monopod), Hoya CP Filters
Canon EF 50mm F/1.4 USM Canon EFS 17-85/4.0-5.6 IS USM, Canon EF 28-300mm F/3.5-5.6 L IS USM, Canon EF 100-400mm F/4.5-5.6 L IS USM.
My Gear | My Website (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Titus213
Cream of the Crop
Avatar
19,403 posts
Gallery: 4 photos
Likes: 36
Joined Feb 2005
Location: Kalama, WA USA
     
Jul 09, 2008 11:02 |  #13

With the camera in M point it at the sky and adjust for under exposure by -1 to -2. Flash in ETTL mode and fire. If the shutter speed needed is over max sync speed the flash will have to be in high speed sync. High speed sync will not cover 10 meters.


Dave
Perspiring photographer.
Visit NorwoodPhotos.comexternal link

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
sponsored links (only for non-logged)

1,697 views & 0 likes for this thread, 7 members have posted to it.
Advice anybody?
FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
AAA
x 1600
y 1600

Jump to forum...   •  Rules   •  Forums   •  New posts   •  RTAT   •  'Best of'   •  Gallery   •  Gear   •  Reviews   •  Member list   •  Polls   •  Image rules   •  Search   •  Password reset   •  Home

Not a member yet?
Register to forums
Registered members may log in to forums and access all the features: full search, image upload, follow forums, own gear list and ratings, likes, more forums, private messaging, thread follow, notifications, own gallery, all settings, view hosted photos, own reviews, see more and do more... and all is free. Don't be a stranger - register now and start posting!


COOKIES DISCLAIMER: This website uses cookies to improve your user experience. By using this site, you agree to our use of cookies and to our privacy policy.
Privacy policy and cookie usage info.


POWERED BY AMASS forum software 2.58forum software
version 2.58 /
code and design
by Pekka Saarinen ©
for photography-on-the.net

Latest registered member was a spammer, and banned as such!
2681 guests, 162 members online
Simultaneous users record so far is 15,144, that happened on Nov 22, 2018

Photography-on-the.net Digital Photography Forums is the website for photographers and all who love great photos, camera and post processing techniques, gear talk, discussion and sharing. Professionals, hobbyists, newbies and those who don't even own a camera -- all are welcome regardless of skill, favourite brand, gear, gender or age. Registering and usage is free.