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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 11 Jul 2008 (Friday) 01:35
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Wow... the 580EXII is pretty powerful... heres proof!

 
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Jul 16, 2008 19:35 |  #46

M Powered wrote in post #5924597 (external link)
Really? Why?

I presume you are learning, and not merely asking to be humorous...

If you shoot a flash shot and light the subject (subject) but not the background, it would matter not if they were in a slum or in a mansion. But if you light the subject with the flash and use available light to also record the background, then it is possible to tell that the bride's parents sprang for a very fancy wedding at the mansion in town. It captures the setting, so that those who were not there can see the opulence, that's why


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Jul 16, 2008 19:42 |  #47

Wilt wrote in post #5924727 (external link)
I presume you are learning, and not merely asking to be humorous...

If you shoot a flash shot and light the subject (subject) but not the background, it would matter not if they were in a slum or in a mansion. But if you light the subject with the flash and use available light to also record the background, then it is possible to tell that the bride's parents sprang for a very fancy wedding at the mansion in town. It captures the setting, so that those who were not there can see the opulence, that's why

So what you are referring to is light spill. Excess light that spreads past your intended subject... For larger strobes I use grids and angle the light accordingly.

But yes, I try not to light the background unless I want the viewer to know the environment, which is the entire reason why I used the 580EXII to light the waterfall in the back as opposed to leaving it completely dark.


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Wilt
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Jul 16, 2008 20:50 |  #48

M Powered wrote in post #5924772 (external link)
So what you are referring to is light spill. Excess light that spreads past your intended subject... For larger strobes I use grids and angle the light accordingly.

But yes, I try not to light the background unless I want the viewer to know the environment, which is the entire reason why I used the 580EXII to light the waterfall in the back as opposed to leaving it completely dark.

No, not 'light spill', it is controlled use of the ambient light that falls on the background, and using it to register that background in the photo, rather than letting it merely be -2EV more more darker than the flash which is put onto the subject.

The light from the flash, which falls onto the subject, might decrease so much in intensity by the time that it reaches the background that it contributes little to the background lighting. For example if your flash were 5.5' from your subject, by the time it is 32' away, it is -5EV in intensity merely due to the Inverse Square law. You must 'drag the shutter' to allow the available light in the scene to accumulate, as the -5EV flash is a brief 1/1000 of a second and dragging the shutter does NOTHING to accumulate any more light from the flash.


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Jul 16, 2008 21:03 |  #49

Wilt wrote in post #5925183 (external link)
No, not 'light spill', it is controlled use of the ambient light that falls on the background, and using it to register that background in the photo, rather than letting it merely be -2EV more more darker than the flash which is put onto the subject.

The light from the flash, which falls onto the subject, might decrease so much in intensity by the time that it reaches the background that it contributes little to the background lighting. For example if your flash were 5.5' from your subject, by the time it is 32' away, it is -5EV in intensity merely due to the Inverse Square law. You must 'drag the shutter' to allow the available light in the scene to accumulate, as the -5EV flash is a brief 1/1000 of a second and dragging the shutter does NOTHING to accumulate any more light from the flash.

Wilt,,yeah.. Check out Inverse Square Law of light..

Any point source which spreads its influence equally in all directions without a limit to its range will obey the inverse square law. This comes from strictly geometrical considerations. The intensity of the influence at any given radius r is the source strength divided by the area of the sphere. Being strictly geometric in its origin, the inverse square law applies to diverse phenomena. Point sources of gravitational force, electric field, light, sound or radiation obey the inverse square law. It is a subject of continuing debate with a source such as a skunk on top of a flag pole; will it's smell drop off according to the inverse square law?

IMAGE: http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/Hbase/Forces/imgfor/isq.gif

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Jul 16, 2008 23:38 |  #50

Wilt wrote in post #5925183 (external link)
No, not 'light spill', it is controlled use of the ambient light that falls on the background, and using it to register that background in the photo, rather than letting it merely be -2EV more more darker than the flash which is put onto the subject.

The light from the flash, which falls onto the subject, might decrease so much in intensity by the time that it reaches the background that it contributes little to the background lighting. For example if your flash were 5.5' from your subject, by the time it is 32' away, it is -5EV in intensity merely due to the Inverse Square law. You must 'drag the shutter' to allow the available light in the scene to accumulate, as the -5EV flash is a brief 1/1000 of a second and dragging the shutter does NOTHING to accumulate any more light from the flash.


Inverse square law wilt. You already did trig, lit.. add physics to the mix!

Edit: Bah.. yogestee beat me to it..


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Jul 17, 2008 10:41 |  #51

Wilt wrote in post #5925183 (external link)
No, not 'light spill', it is controlled use of the ambient light that falls on the background, and using it to register that background in the photo, rather than letting it merely be -2EV more more darker than the flash which is put onto the subject.

The light from the flash, which falls onto the subject, might decrease so much in intensity by the time that it reaches the background that it contributes little to the background lighting. For example if your flash were 5.5' from your subject, by the time it is 32' away, it is -5EV in intensity merely due to the Inverse Square law. You must 'drag the shutter' to allow the available light in the scene to accumulate, as the -5EV flash is a brief 1/1000 of a second and dragging the shutter does NOTHING to accumulate any more light from the flash.

Yea, tell that to a model. Hey Honey, your standing 6' away, I need you to be at 5'5" :D

I'm aware that you have to drop shutter speed to capture more ambient, and to compensate you have to drop the power of the strobe not to over expose the subject.

Ya DiG? ;)

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Jul 17, 2008 11:09 |  #52

M Powered wrote in post #5928688 (external link)
Yea, tell that to a model. Hey Honey, your standing 6' away, I need you to be at 5'5" :D

I'm aware that you have to drop shutter speed to capture more ambient, and to compensate you have to drop the power of the strobe not to over expose the subject.

Ya DiG? ;)

Hmm, the folks who worry about photos viewed while at work are gonna sweat again!

BTW, if you drop shutter speed to capture more ambient, there is not that much accumulation of exposure in dragging the shutter to require a lot of correction...

If flash exposure was f/5.6, and you are dragging shutter to 1/8 to capture ambient at f/5.6 to -1EV relative brightness (to direct viewer's attention to the model) the added light due to ambient would only be adding 0.5EV of light to the model. If relative background was a -1.5EV, the added light due to ambient would only be adding 0.3EV of light to the model.


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Jul 17, 2008 11:30 |  #53

Wilt wrote in post #5928863 (external link)
Hmm, the folks who worry about photos viewed while at work are gonna sweat again!

BTW, if you drop shutter speed to capture more ambient, there is not that much accumulation of exposure in dragging the shutter to require a lot of correction...

If flash exposure was f/5.6, and you are dragging shutter to 1/8 to capture ambient at f/5.6 to -1EV relative brightness (to direct viewer's attention to the model) the added light due to ambient would only be adding 0.5EV of light to the model. If relative background was a -1.5EV, the added light due to ambient would only be adding 0.3EV of light to the model.

Whats all this talk of -1 EV + MC2 +5EV stuff? Is that light meter talk? Because if it is, I'm totally lost because I don't use em :) I'm simple, set my aperture and eye ball my light setting. Max sync speed for my strobes are 1/250sec and I try to keep it above 1/125sec to avoid any motion blur. If I need more ambient I bump the ISO and drop the power on the lights.


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Jul 17, 2008 11:34 |  #54

M Powered wrote in post #5928980 (external link)
Whats all this talk of -1 EV + MC2 +5EV stuff? Is that light meter talk? Because if it is, I'm totally lost because I don't use em :) I'm simple, set my aperture and eye ball my light setting. Max sync speed for my strobes are 1/250sec and I try to keep it above 1/125sec to avoid any motion blur. If I need more ambient I bump the ISO and drop the power on the lights.

His point is just that dropping your shutter speed has almost no effect on the light levels on the subject, just the background, if the subject is dark and you're using strobes. And you really don't need to worry about motion blur with strobes, mind you, unless some significant part of the frame is lit by ambient. The flash of a photographic strobe isn't nearly long enough for motion blur to occur in any normal situation.


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Jul 17, 2008 11:36 |  #55

M Powered wrote in post #5928980 (external link)
Whats all this talk of -1 EV + MC2 +5EV stuff? Is that light meter talk?

Naw, its just basic photography lighting talk :)


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Wilt
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Jul 17, 2008 11:43 |  #56

M Powered wrote in post #5928980 (external link)
Whats all this talk of -1 EV + MC2 +5EV stuff? Is that light meter talk? Because if it is, I'm totally lost because I don't use em :) I'm simple, set my aperture and eye ball my light setting. Max sync speed for my strobes are 1/250sec and I try to keep it above 1/125sec to avoid any motion blur. If I need more ambient I bump the ISO and drop the power on the lights.

Ignore 'metering'...the notations are merely shorthand ways to refer to the relative intensity of light in different locations or from different sources.

For example, if you measured light intensity in one place with your camera, and it says 1/200 f/4, then you measure in a second place and it says 1/25 f/4, the light in one place is '3 f/stops different': 1/200...1/100...1/50..​.1/25. so this can be expressed as location A is +3EV compared to location B, and it also can be expressed as location B is -3EV compared to location A!

Fractional differences can be expressed this way, too.
For example, if you measured light intensity in one place with your camera, and it says 1/200 f/4, then you measure in a second place and it says 1/125 f/4, the light in one place is '2/3 f/stops different'. So this can be expressed as location A is +2/3EV compared to location B, and it also can be expressed as location B is -2/3EV compared to location A!


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Jul 17, 2008 11:43 |  #57

bieber wrote in post #5929006 (external link)
His point is just that dropping your shutter speed has almost no effect on the light levels on the subject, just the background, if the subject is dark and you're using strobes. And you really don't need to worry about motion blur with strobes, mind you, unless some significant part of the frame is lit by ambient. The flash of a photographic strobe isn't nearly long enough for motion blur to occur in any normal situation.

Almost everything I shoot has a small amounts of ambient in it. Models constantly move, unless told otherwise, so I need to make every effort to prevent motion blur :)


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Jul 17, 2008 11:44 |  #58

Wilt wrote in post #5929054 (external link)
Ignore 'metering'...the notations are merely shorthand ways to refer to the relative intensity of light in different locations or from different sources.

For example, if you measured light intensity in one place with your camera, and it says 1/200 f/4, then you measure in a second place and it says 1/25 f/4, the light in one place is '3 f/stops different': 1/200...1/100...1/50..​.1/25. so this can be expressed as location A is +3EV compared to location B, and it also can be expressed as location B is -3EV compared to location A!

Fractional differences can be expressed this way, too.
For example, if you measured light intensity in one place with your camera, and it says 1/200 f/4, then you measure in a second place and it says 1/125 f/4, the light in one place is '2/3 f/stops different'. So this can be expressed as location A is +2/3EV compared to location B, and it also can be expressed as location B is -2/3EV compared to location A!

ahhh gotcha!

But I don't use a light meter :(


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Jul 17, 2008 11:51 |  #59

M Powered wrote in post #5906858 (external link)
Here is a picture illustration. Assistant on the left is holding the positioned 580EXII with the PW mounted on top of the flash head.

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in my next life,,i want to come back as that rock:rolleyes::p


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Jul 17, 2008 11:55 |  #60

slowdad wrote in post #5929103 (external link)
in my next life,,i want to come back as that rock:rolleyes::p

Not if you saw what was on top of that rock prior! :p


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Wow... the 580EXII is pretty powerful... heres proof!
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