How to setup remote flashes for HS Gym sports

Hello,
I'm trying to plan how to (better) shoot indoor sports in a high-school gym.

In terms of equipment, I've usually just gone with either a 70-200mm f/2.8 (the fastest lens I have access to) or the stock 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6. In the future, I plan on using a 50mm f/1.4 or a 15mm f/2.8 fisheye.
I have several flashes (430 EX, 550 EX, 580 EX, 580 EX II) and I primarily use my 40D. I also have a few studio strobes but I don't think they're necessary for this.

I'm hoping to set up strobes on the balconies on both sides of the gym. Since I don't have any remote triggers (can't afford Pocket Wizards..), how would I set up the flashes?

I'm thinking I have 580 EX connected as Master to the 40D with a PC sync cord. I would mount the 580 EX on a tripod and place it a few feet from me on the gym floor. It would face the 580 EX II (as Slave) in the balcony and trigger it. The 580 EX II then triggers the 550 EX (also Slave) on the opposite balcony.

The 550 EX & 580 EX II would both be facing towards the key and all flashes would be in manual mode. Would this work as an alternative to remote triggers?

Also, I would like to get some shots from behind the backboard. Assuming the Athletic Director, refs and coaches are ok with strobes and having cameras near/in the backboard, what are some cheap options in terms of mounts?
I know about the Bogen Magic Arm + Super Clamp option but that is nearly $150. Are there cheaper alternatives?

Thanks!

Having a flash on a tripod a few feet from you sounds like disaster -- players will inevitably crash into it, and I can imagine that your flash probably wouldn't survive. I don't know if the IR would reach a slave on a balcony that far away. I also doubt the AD or coaches would be OK with strobes placed behind the backboard (imagine how distracting that would be). Sorry to be so critical, but I'm thinking it would be difficult to do what you're talking about without pocket wizards. Hopefully someone can chime in here with some alternatives though. Have you considered the Elinchrom Skyports?

No no! I didn't make myself clear. The strobes are on the balcony. I'm going to try to get a *camera* behind the backboard. No flash/strobes (it would probably reflect on the glass and look ugly anyway)!

Second, I'm talking about a flash on a tripod against the far wall of the gym, far away from any players/balls. If any player crashes into the tripod with the flash, they will definitely crash into me first!

Skyports are an option but I still don't know if I want to put down more than $100-125. The AlienBee CyberSyncs sounded appealing but the 1 review I read was quite negative. I don't want to buy Ebay Cheapos either because this requires some range (10-35 feet).

edit: Oh and no problem on being critical. That's what I need/want!

I have not used the set up you are describing so I can't comment on that. But as far as a remote camera for BB, I use this set up often, the Bogen Friction Arms and Super clamps in my opinion is a must. I consider them the best not only in the ability to manipulate the camera to the desired position, but mostly for its strength in securing the object being mounted. Safety is my main concern when mounting any camera that has the the potential of of falling on a player. $150 is cheap considering the cost of a camera falling on a player. Along with the clamps and arms you also need safety cables to hold all the equipment just in case it does drop.
Here is my setup for remote BB

HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'image/gif' | Byte size: ZERO | PHOTOBUCKET ERROR IMAGE

That's quite impressive. Just curious - Are you mounting your WL 1600'S to the rafters and triggering them with the PW's?

gromeo wrote in post #5898748
I have not used the set up you are describing so I can't comment on that. But as far as a remote camera for BB, I use this set up often, the Bogen Friction Arms and Super clamps in my opinion is a must. I consider them the best not only in the ability to manipulate the camera to the desired position, but mostly for its strength in securing the object being mounted. Safety is my main concern when mounting any camera that has the the potential of of falling on a player. $150 is cheap considering the cost of a camera falling on a player. Along with the clamps and arms you also need safety cables to hold all the equipment just in case it does drop.
Here is my setup for remote BB


Good Luck Good Shooting

I suppose you are right about $150 being a good investment for safety. What is your opinion on standing on a tall 10 ft. ladder for the shot? (The ladder being several feet behind the baseline)
I thought I read about a person using a really long monopod and holding it in the air or something but that didn't sound very safe..

Stee2, that is correct 1 PW to trigger camera Chnl 1, PW on a off shoe cord to trigger Strobes on Chnl 3, when I am on the other end of the remote cam I trigger with a hand held remote. Then I sync together when on the same side.

dshankar wrote in post #5898892
I suppose you are right about $150 being a good investment for safety. What is your opinion on standing on a tall 10 ft. ladder for the shot? (The ladder being several feet behind the baseline)
I thought I read about a person using a really long monopod and holding it in the air or something but that didn't sound very safe..

I don't know about your area, but in my area the FHSAA prohibits anything behind the baseline not even chairs. Holding a mono pod in the air is prob safer then a ladder at least you can get out of the way, I have used this in FB to get above all other photogs when the coaches meet at 50 after a game gives a different perspective.

Well I'll look into the magic arm & regulations stuff later... My primary concern is still how to wirelessly trigger. IR or remote!? IR - will it work?

Question: what are your thoughts on splitting the PC sync cord and then running to cords to separate ends of the gym, up the bleachers (along the far side) and to the flashes? I would obviously tape down the 2 cords running to the flashes to prevent people from tripping. I'm pretty sure the director won't mind if I do that...

The splitting of the sync cord is following a DIY on strobist.com (http://strobist.blogsp​ot.com …nching-second-strobe.html).

gromeo wrote in post #5898910
Stee2, that is correct 1 PW to trigger camera Chnl 1, PW on a off shoe cord to trigger Strobes on Chnl 3, when I am on the other end of the remote cam I trigger with a hand held remote. Then I sync together when on the same side.

Maybe I'm missing something, but why do you need the off-shoe cord? Why not put one PW on the hot shoe, and attach the other to your PC connection?

Gatorboy wrote in post #5899320
Maybe I'm missing something, but why do you need the off-shoe cord? Why not put one PW on the hot shoe, and attach the other to your PC connection?

Perhaps because the PC connection for PW for Canon bodies is like a $40 accessory or something (I believe..)? I'm probably wrong

Dave, yes I could have put the PW in the hotshoe, but this made it stick out past the padding and vulnerable to balls hitting it and ripping the PW right out happened to me once. The other is connected using a PW Pre Trigger cord in the remote control terminal.

What kind of an f-stop gain do you anticipate with the mulitiple flash? I wouldn't be sure they would do much for you at all.

Why don't you look at Alien Bees CyberSync Tx and Rx. Lot better than eBay triggers(from what I hear as I am still waiitng for mine to get to me).