I have 10-22 and 17-55. They are different lenses for different purposes. The focal length overlap does not bother me at all. In fact, it would be super annoying if the 10-22 was actually just a 10-17 and that if you wanted 18mm you would be forced to swap lenses. Same thing in reverse, coming down the focal length range. Basically, if you're shooting landscapes and architecture the 10-22 is a good choice. If you're shooting general walkabout stuff, or weddings and the like, indoors, or even portraits, at a stretch, then the 17-55 is brilliant. The overlap is really neither here nor there. Each of them gives you the range required for the uses that lens is put to.
I don't know if the following will make sense to anyone else, but this is how I look at it....
It's a bit like gears on a mountain bike. You have three sprockets on the front, giving you three ranges of gears. That's a bit like three separate zoom lenses, such as 10-22, 17-55 and 28-135, for example. Then you have 7-8 gears on the rear, with a finer degree of control/adjustment between gears. That is like the spread through the zoom range of each individual lens. If you do the maths on the gear ratios you will find there is an overlap between the highest gear or two in the low range and the lowest gear or two in the mid range. Similarly the highest gears in the mid range will overlap with the lowest gears in the high range. So really you don't have 21 or 24 completely distinct and separate gear ratios. You probably lose 2-4 ratios to overlap. That's a really not a problem. You just have to appreciate that you have three ranges of gears. For the really tough climbs you'll be on the granny ring at the front (10-22). For the easier climbs you'll be on the middle ring (17-55) and for really gunning it on the flats and downhills you'll be on the big ring (28-135). So it's more about having the range you want available for the kind of work you are doing. It's not about having an exact contiguous range from lowest/widest to highest/longest.