Which light meter ???

I am entering the realm of strobizm and trying to work out a budget on what i need ?

In saying that what is the best bang for buck for a light meter for general purpose use concidering i would be using at times available light but more often than not a combination of 430Ex and 580Ex flash units shout through umbrellas...

i wana know too.=D

The Sekonic L-358 is a great meter. Can't comment on any other ones as this is the only one I've ever used.

now is a light meter REALLY necessary? or, something that will make life easier.

vegasboy wrote in post #5917332
now is a light meter REALLY necessary? or, something that will make life easier.

Well, it makes life much easier. Especially when starting out or if you are looking for consistent, professional results. Maybe 5 years from now I'll be able to just fire a test shot, chimp and adjust and have the camera set perfectly. For now I'll use my meter. I value my time.

any comments on sekonic L-308S? its like $80 less than L-358

vegasboy wrote in post #5917332
now is a light meter REALLY necessary? or, something that will make life easier.

I've heard the comment made before that if you need to ask, you need a light meter. I've found that mine helps me quite a bit.

DDCSD wrote in post #5917300
The Sekonic L-358 is a great meter. Can't comment on any other ones as this is the only one I've ever used.

Thats great thanks i will go with that i have seen some of your images and if that is any indication then i am more than happy...

If you want tons of insight about meters, do a search in the forums. This is one of the most asked questions and has been answered in detail with just about every opinion, preference and recommendation available.

vegasboy wrote in post #5917332
now is a light meter REALLY necessary? or, something that will make life easier.

For me if it makes life easier and i can afford it it is necassery...

rooeey wrote in post #5917476
Thats great thanks i will go with that i have seen some of your images and if that is any indication then i am more than happy...

I'm flattered, but I am sure you have me mistaken with someone else.... Like Robert (TMR) maybe.

I tried doing "strobist" without a meter, but I got frustrated very quickly. A meter just makes things so much easier. I'd rather worry about other things than "shoot, chimp, shoot, chimp, shoot, chimp......" trying to get my lights right.

TMR Design wrote in post #5917497
If you want tons of insight about meters, do a search in the forums. This is one of the most asked questions and has been answered in detail with just about every opinion, preference and recommendation available.

Thanks Robert...

I did the search and the Sekonic L-358 seems to be what i am looking for...

Can you refer me to a link that explains incident versus reflective metering applications and or give a a brief explanation or example...

Here is a great thread on using the L-358:
https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=403806

Curtis has a great explanation on post #3 of exactly what you are asking for.

rooeey wrote in post #5917219
I am entering the realm of strobizm and trying to work out a budget on what i need ?


In saying that what is the best bang for buck for a light meter for general purpose use concidering i would be using at times available light but more often than not a combination of 430Ex and 580Ex flash units shout through umbrellas...

This depends on how you plan on using your flash units. If you are going to take advantage of E-TTL then I can tell you from experience that a sekonic 758DR will not correctly meter the flash. It meters the control signal and gives a false reading. If you plan on using them in manual the sekonic does give a good reading. In both instances the flash units were in Master and slave mode.

Even if the meter did work with the Flash units in E-TTL, the whole purpose of E-TTL is to adjust the flash output for each shot. Changing your position relative to you subject will affect the light reaching the master flash and cause the light output to change. Changing you subjects position relative to the flash units will do the same thing.

None of the above is meant to imply that's it's impossible to get great images using E-TTL in master/slave mode. On the contrary, once you learn how to read your histogram adjust your FEC accordingly you will find that the majority of your shots will turn out as you intended.