Wedding Shot Advice

I'm shooting a wedding within the next month and would like to get advice from other experienced wedding photographers for the the best photo results. Here are my questions.

A. Wedding is in doors (ball room) with limited outside light conditions.
1. What lens works best for this okay (16mm-35mm f/2.8 or 24mm-70mm f/2.8)?
2. What aperture works best for the most convincing images within this environment.
3. Would anyone recommend using the 70mm-200mm f/2.8 shooting indoors? Why or why not?

B. What mode works best for this condition (M, TV, AV or P)?
1. I tend to shoot in M when shooting in doors. Should I consider another mode for best results?

C. Recommended or maximum ISO setting in this location?
1. What is the recommended ISO setting when shooting outdoors with sun light present?

D. How to avoid shinny and reflective spots on subject's faces using flash?
1. How can I prevent flash reflections on the face of darker complexion subjects without under exposing the image? Too little flash = underexposure. Using flash = flash reflexion spots on face.

E. Shooting facial portrait style shots.
1. What is the recommended focal mm for portrait head shots of the bride/groom?


Thanks!

I really don't know how to answer your questions... but I will give it a shot. (my opinion only)

A1. if there is nice Architecture, lots of wide open space, and you can get close then using the 16-35 could get you some nice perspective. otherwise the 24-70 will probably do better.
A2. use your judgement on this one, you are the creative photograper, use those mad skills.
A3. Yes I would recommend the 70-200 2.8 (I have the IS version, and use it at indoor wedding especially for candid shots / head shots)

B1. Use the mode you feel most comfortable in! if you are comfortable that you can work your dials and buttons fast enough for a wedding without missing those money shots then by all means use 'M' otherwise use whichever you feel you can get those creative shots with.

C1. I am not familiar with your equipment, I have a 40D and I will without thinking twice bump it up to ISO 1600, getting the shot is THE MOST IMPORTANT thing in a wedding! (you can creatively use the noise in PP and the couple will love the shot, or miss the shot and don't get refferred to all their friends...)

D1. No idea, your gonna have to ask somebody else this one, I've never had a problem.

E1. I have heard that 100mm is the 'sweet spot' for portrait shots... I have no Idea, I just use whatever I feel will give me the look I want. (70-200 at this point).

Hope that helps you. By your gear it would appear that you have at least some experience, just not in this area... Good luck and do let us know how it goes

I dont think there really is an answer to your questions above other than getting to know the camera and equipment better. Every situation is different, there are so many factors that can influence what apertures and focal lengths etc we use for shots. Thats why a machine wont likely replace a human for a very long time ...

I shoot at ISO3200 sometimes. Shiny spots on faces is fixed by wiping the face and not using direct flash. If everything else is equal a long lens is better than short. If flash is the main light always use M mode.

A. Wedding is in doors (ball room) with limited outside light conditions.
1. What lens works best for this okay (16mm-35mm f/2.8 or 24mm-70mm f/2.8)?

id go for the 24-70 so all your shots wont be wide or wider.
2. What aperture works best for the most convincing images within this environment.

aperture id use would be usually 5.6 (dof) and a few 2.8 (isolate the object from bg)

3. Would anyone recommend using the 70mm-200mm f/2.8 shooting indoors? Why or why not? id use it in a heartbeat! cant think of any reason not to use it. u will need close ups and its a great lens. just make sure u got your iso high nuff to freeze the action.

B. What mode works best for this condition (M, TV, AV or P)?
1. I tend to shoot in M when shooting in doors. Should I consider another mode for best results?
id shoot all M because since there isnt much outdoor lights coming in, your exposures wont change. faster to just leave it in M and concentrate on framing etc.

C. Recommended or maximum ISO setting in this location?

id set my iso to whatever it has to be to get perfect exposures. U dont want any shots all blurry!!
1. What is the recommended ISO setting when shooting outdoors with sun light present?
outside id shoot iso as low as i can get away with.

D. How to avoid shinny and reflective spots on subject's faces using flash?
1. How can I prevent flash reflections on the face of darker complexion subjects without under exposing the image? Too little flash = underexposure. Using flash = flash reflexion spots on face.
well, to get rid of "hot spots" on their faces make sure u have a good makeup artist to powder them down so they dont have shiny faces. if u use your flash with the diffuser on it or bounce the flash, u will also lessen the bright spots on skin.

E. Shooting facial portrait style shots.
1. What is the recommended focal mm for portrait head shots of the bride/groom?
u can use any lens just dont shoot them with too wide angle lens or u will distort their faces. Usually i would go longer focal length if i want to isolate the bg (show only small portion).

hope helps a little and good luck.

I'm going to play nice on this one .

First, you should learn to bounce your flash (if you can) and learn how to drag your shutter to allow in more ambient light (if that's your goal) and let your flash help the exposure. Shutter controls ambient light - aperture controls your flash exposure.

ISO - whatever is needed to capture your shots. Your 1D2 should be more than capable in this department, even if you have to go to 1600 and beyond. A sharp capture and a little noise is better than a blurry capture and no noise.

Generally, I use my 24-70 2.8 for most of my wedding photography, as it's a very versatile focal length that can cover pretty much everything. The 70-200 wouldn't hurt, but I'd stick that on your 20D in case you need to use it in a hurry. I try to keep most of my portraits at 50mm and beyond, unless its a group shot that requires me to go wide angle.

and I shoot in M, pretty much all the time. Lighting will not change much when you're indoors, so you won't be adjusting that much once you chimp your flash's exposure and get that dialed in.

Oh yes, and I'd get a backup flash and a battery pack too. You'll need to those fast recycle times.

Zansho wrote in post #5926099
I'm going to play nice on this one .

First, you should learn to bounce your flash (if you can) and learn how to drag your shutter to allow in more ambient light (if that's your goal) and let your flash help the exposure. Shutter controls ambient light - aperture controls your flash exposure.

ISO - whatever is needed to capture your shots. Your 1D2 should be more than capable in this department, even if you have to go to 1600 and beyond. A sharp capture and a little noise is better than a blurry capture and no noise.

Generally, I use my 24-70 2.8 for most of my wedding photography, as it's a very versatile focal length that can cover pretty much everything. The 70-200 wouldn't hurt, but I'd stick that on your 20D in case you need to use it in a hurry. I try to keep most of my portraits at 50mm and beyond, unless its a group shot that requires me to go wide angle.

and I shoot in M, pretty much all the time. Lighting will not change much when you're indoors, so you won't be adjusting that much once you chimp your flash's exposure and get that dialed in.

Oh yes, and I'd get a backup flash and a battery pack too. You'll need to those fast recycle times.

Thanks for that.

I appreciate the comments from everyone because shooting weddings is not my expertise. Although the 1Ds is capable of shooting great pictures, I wanted to know from several wedding photographers the best techniques for shooting wedding pictures. From the comments above, I think it's best to shoot in M since the event is in door. I'll use the 24mm-70mm f/2.8 lens with the 70mm-200mm f/2.8 IS mounted to my 20D back up. As for shooting at ISO 1600-3200, I try not to shoot above 400-800 ISO in doors with the 24mm-70mm f/2.8 lens. However, this could change as I continue to shoot more weddings.

Learn to appreciate and use high ISOs, they make great prints even at ISO1600. People scared of high ISO are generally the ones that look at the images in photoshop at 100%.

Here's my take:

A. Wedding is in doors (ball room) with limited outside light conditions.
1. What lens works best for this okay (16mm-35mm f/2.8 or 24mm-70mm f/2.8)?
This depends on the photo you want to take - wide scene setter or close portrait. Both lenses are great and will work well.

2. What aperture works best for the most convincing images within this environment?
Again, this depends on what look you want. Also, the ambient light factors in and a wide aperture may be necessary.

3. Would anyone recommend using the 70mm-200mm f/2.8 shooting indoors? Why or why not?
Yes, I'd go for it and this lens is high on my list of next purchases. Good for candids.

B. What mode works best for this condition (M, TV, AV or P)?
1. I tend to shoot in M when shooting in doors. Should I consider another mode for best results?
I use M. It gives me the best and most consistent results exposure wise. Also, set your WB too for better colour consistency.

C. Recommended or maximum ISO setting in this location?
1. What is the recommended ISO setting when shooting outdoors with sun light present?
Outdoors with plenty of sun I'll go for ISO 100, as long as the shutter speed stays above 1/focal length. I'm not scared of using high ISO's to get the shot.

D. How to avoid shinny and reflective spots on subject's faces using flash?
1. How can I prevent flash reflections on the face of darker complexion subjects without under exposing the image? Too little flash = underexposure. Using flash = flash reflexion spots on face.
You need to practice this one to get a feel for using flash.

E. Shooting facial portrait style shots.
1. What is the recommended focal mm for portrait head shots of the bride/groom?
I use my 24-70mm and my 30mm for head and shoulder portraits. Anything much wider than the 24 will show distortion and longer focal lengths are usually more flattering.

Some more reading:

Tutorial: Wedding Photography - Lessons Learned
Wedding Photography Part 1 -organisational strategy
Wedding Photography Part 2 - available light technique
http://tips.romanzolin​.com …eBagofWeddingPh​otographer
https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=464510
https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?p=2453681
https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=300890

Because I refused to use ISO1600 or 3200, it cost me some potentially good and important shots in my last wedding. I wanted the photos to stay printable at good sizes, but I ended up getting nothing good at all from those particular shots.

I think everyone has offered great advice here. The one thing I would add is that looking at your equipment you have no excuse to get any bad shots. Your equipment should give you fantastic results any bad shots is going to be user error. GET TO KNOW YOUR EQUIPMENT.

There's no doubt the OP has lots better equipment than I have, and anything I can do he should be able to do much better.

form wrote in post #5960599
Because I refused to use ISO1600 or 3200, it cost me some potentially good and important shots in my last wedding. I wanted the photos to stay printable at good sizes, but I ended up getting nothing good at all from those particular shots.

A few years ago when I was new I shot an image at ISO1600 and underexposed it by a stop and a half, shooting RAW on a 20D. I bumped the exposure and printed it 20" across in an Asukabook. It looked great. If i'd shot ISO3200 and had exposed it properly it'd have looked even better. I have a 50" print shot at ISO800 on a 5D, it also looks great.

People worry too much about high ISO. Actually people worry too much about most technical things.