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Thread started 21 Jul 2008 (Monday) 23:58
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CPL for 17-40L & 10-22

 
John_TX
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Jul 21, 2008 23:58 |  #1

I need to pick up a 77mm circular polarizing filter for landscapes that will work on both the 17-40L & Canon 10-22.
I'd like to buy a CPL once...so I'm not really interested in the cheapies.

Two issues/concerns:
1) I assume I'll probably need a "slim" filter, especially for the 10-22?
2) Lens caps: It seems that many of the "slim" CPL's don't take snap-on lens caps. Are there "slim" CPL's that will work with snap caps? Some supposedly come with rubber slip-on caps that don't stay on too well.

So mainly, what's the deal with slim CPL's & lens caps? I'd like to be able to attach a secure lens cap to the lens with the CPL in place, but not at the expense of optical quality. Is anything out there that might work in this regard?


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kevindar
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Jul 22, 2008 00:01 |  #2

yes, very good. I bought a hoya pro1 digital from them that works well for me.


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John_TX
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Jul 22, 2008 00:29 as a reply to  @ kevindar's post |  #3

I've found these two filters at HVStar (see below).

The B+W Kaeseman seems to be better sealed between the rotating elements, but has no external threads.

The Hoya Pro1 has external threads and Hoya's description says its thinner than most filters, but doesn't call it a "slim" / "thin" filter outright. But it does appear to take snap-on lens caps.

Am I going to experience any vignetting with the Hoya Pro1 SHMC CPL when used on the 10-22?

B+W 77 mm Kaeseman MRC SLIM Circular Polarizer Filter (25844) (not currently in stock at HVStar, but probably ~$135)
B+W 77mm MRC SLIM Circular Polarizer Filter ($128) (non-Kaeseman sealing)
Hoya 77mm PRO1 Super HMC Circular Polarizing Filter ($112)


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tunin
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Jul 22, 2008 05:39 |  #4

I see you use a 40d and that is 1.6 crop sensor body, I have 2x the B+W one is a Kaeseman and the other one is a non Kaeseman. I use them on my 40d and my 5d the 40d is just fine with both but the 5d being a full frame is a bit problematic on the wide end on my 16-35L (82mm). The B+W Kaeseman is more durable and more protected of the two in extreme circumstances but the turning of the front par on it is more tight so between the two I like the non Kaeseman better.


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kevindar
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Jul 22, 2008 13:19 |  #5

I use the hoya on a 16-35, on a full frame, and have used it on a 10-20 on a crop sensor, works great.


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Lidor7
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Jul 22, 2008 18:31 as a reply to  @ kevindar's post |  #6

I use a Hoya Pro1 on my Sigma 10-20 without any noticable darkening of the edges. The Pro1s also have front threads and keeps my lens cap on well.

I've read that the 10-22 doesn't really require a thin filter, especially for UV. CPLs tend to be thicker, so I'd go for something like a Hoya Pro1 CPL.




  
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argyle
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Jul 22, 2008 19:36 as a reply to  @ Lidor7's post |  #7

If you go with a B+W F-Pro, you will not need a slim polarizer. I use the B+W Kaesemann F-Pro MRC CPL and never had any vignetting, either with the 17-40L on a 5D or with the 10-22 on my 30D. Don't waste the extra money on a slim...


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Diesel_Dog
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Jul 22, 2008 21:28 |  #8

I've got the B+W Kaesemann F-Pro MRC CPL on my 10-22 (Mounted to a 30D) and have no issues with vignetting. Slims are a pain in the butt because you have to use the special slip on lens cap, good luck replacing it if you lose it! HVstar is a good place to buy your filters.


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John_TX
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Jul 22, 2008 21:41 as a reply to  @ Diesel_Dog's post |  #9

Thank you for the replies and experiences with the 10-22 especially. It is good to hear that the standard size Kaesemann B+W filters work with the wider lenses.

One last question, do the standard Canon lens caps fit on the B+W Kaesemann MRC CPL? Or do they come with their own snap-on caps?


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Tsmith
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Jul 23, 2008 00:02 |  #10

John_TX wrote in post #5965271 (external link)
Thank you for the replies and experiences with the 10-22 especially. It is good to hear that the standard size Kaesemann B+W filters work with the wider lenses.

One last question, do the standard Canon lens caps fit on the B+W Kaesemann MRC CPL? Or do they come with their own snap-on caps?

Yes if its listed as the F-Pro. These have the front filter threads.

Here's a recent photo taken at 10mm with the B+W Kaesemann F-Pro MRC CPL

IMAGE: http://www.pbase.com/smith_xt/image/100150396/original.jpg



  
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John_TX
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Jul 23, 2008 00:30 |  #11

Tsmith wrote in post #5966111 (external link)
Yes if its listed as the F-Pro. These have the front filter threads.

Here's a recent photo taken at 10mm with the B+W Kaesemann F-Pro MRC CPL

Thanks Toney, I've always enjoyed your landscapes!
The skies in your shots always look awesome.


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Tsmith
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Jul 23, 2008 00:42 |  #12

John_TX wrote in post #5966230 (external link)
Thanks Toney, I've always enjoyed your landscapes!
The skies in your shots always look awesome.

Your welcome and thanks too.

I usually meter a mid tone area in the frame and quite often will set the EC -2/3 stop to keep from blowing the highlights in the white of the clouds. Notice too the CPL will reduce the glare in the green vegetation.




  
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John_TX
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Jul 25, 2008 11:15 as a reply to  @ Tsmith's post |  #13

Thanks for the assistance.

I just ordered the B+W Kaesemann CPL from Amazon (via Adorama) for $140 shipped!

The same filter is listed on Adorama's website for $190;
B&H has it for $170 shipped;
HVStar had it for about $140 shipped (HK) and it wasn't even currently in stock.

We shall see!

I also sneaked in a Canon TC-80N3 Timer Remote Control ;)


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John_TX
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Jul 31, 2008 21:26 as a reply to  @ John_TX's post |  #14

Filter showed up today and it's the correct one. I was a little worried since there was a large price difference between Amazon's price (through Adorama) and Adorama's website.

Quick question, I remember reading that the Hoya CLP's have a small mark on the ring that you can line up in the direction of the sun for maximum polarization.

I have noticed no such obvious marking on the B+W CPL.
Would the "B+W 77 KSM C-POL MRC" marking that is inside the front edge of the filter or "F-Pro" markings on the outside be such a reference mark? \

The location of this lettering appeared to give max polarization when the Sun was to my left side and the lettering corresponded to the sun's altitude (e.g. lettering was at about 10-o'clock if the filter were the face of a clock).

Just curious if the filter was designed this way or if it's just a coincidence with the one I got.


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Tsmith
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Jul 31, 2008 21:48 |  #15

John I've had the Hoya and now the B+W and always just look through the viewfinder while rotating the filter for the desired amount of polarization. Often times its better to back off the full effect. The filter works great eliminating glare on a water surface too.

On a side note many people have stated how much easier it is to clean the B+W over the Hoya. For me its been the exact opposite of that.




  
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CPL for 17-40L & 10-22
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