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Thread started 28 Jul 2008 (Monday) 12:09
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Vivitar 283 and 40D .Will it work?

 
PacAce
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Jul 30, 2008 19:15 |  #16

digadv wrote in post #6015941 (external link)
Well, I just read the manual ... page 106 of the 40D manual (bottom of the page). The PC port is rated at <250V. I don't see the same spec for the hotshoe, so better safe than sorry and keep it off the hotshoe (which I have read is rated at 6V but can't confirm).

Personally, I have modified my 283 (+200V) to work with sync voltages at 6V.



You're making a hugh assumption that the same circuit is triggering both ports. Personally, I would not take the chance.

The one thing I don't do in this forum is make unsubstantiated statements or assumptions without noting that fact, especially if it could involve possible damage to camera gear or equipment. But, for the record, I never said anything about the PC terminal and the hotshoe circuits being the same. You just made an assumption that I said that. ;)

If you check out the March 2007 issue of Tech Tips in the Digital Journalist online magazine, Chuck Westfall states that the rating of trigger voltages apply equally to both the PC terminal and the hot shoe.

A snippet from http://digitaljournali​st.org/issue0703/tech-tips.html (external link)

ChuckWestfall, Tech Tips, March 2007 wrote:
The trigger circuit voltage (TCV) rating for any EOS SLR is the same on the hot shoe as it is on the PC terminal (if the camera has one), but the acceptable TCV level varies according to the camera model. Incidentally, the main reason for the difference is the way the X-sync signal is generated. With the 250V cameras, the X-sync signal is generated electronically. With the 6V cameras, the X-sync signal is generated mechanically. There are no guarantees, but going forward I anticipate that most if not all future EOS SLRs will be safe for TCV up to 250 volts.


...Leo

  
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digadv
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Jul 30, 2008 19:33 |  #17

@PacAce

I'm certainly not trying to accuse you of anything, and like you, just trying to err on the side of safety. I read the article and sincerely hope it's true. I wonder why Canon won't publish the electrical spec for the hotshoe.

Take care.




  
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PacAce
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Jul 30, 2008 19:38 |  #18

digadv wrote in post #6016289 (external link)
@PacAce

I'm certainly not trying to accuse you of anything, and like you, just trying to err on the side of safety. I read the article (btw, please remove the ":" so that the link is correct) and sincerely hope it's true. I wonder why Canon won't publish the electrical spec for the hotshoe.

Take care.

Thanks for pointing out the error in the URL link. It's fixed now.

As for Canon not publishing any electrical specs, whatever Chuch Westfall says or publishes is as good as you're going to get from Canon. Without him, we'd be a lot deeper in the dark. :)


...Leo

  
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digadv
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Jul 30, 2008 19:47 as a reply to  @ PacAce's post |  #19

What I really want to know if anyone has tried putting a high-voltage 283 on their hotshoe and does it work? I had to disconnect my wires to the hotshoe contacts, but would reconnect them if it's safe.

BTW, 200+ VDC will wake you up if you're not careful :shock:.




  
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PacAce
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Jul 30, 2008 20:59 |  #20

digadv wrote in post #6016353 (external link)
What I really want to know if anyone has tried putting a high-voltage 283 on their hotshoe and does it work? I had to disconnect my wires to the hotshoe contacts, but would reconnect them if it's safe.

BTW, 200+ VDC will wake you up if you're not careful :shock:.

The highest voltage the Canon EOS DSLR is rate at is 250V. I don't think it would be wise to try using a flash with a 283V trigger voltage without some form of protection! :shock:

[EDIT: I think I misread the previous post. I guess "high-voltage 283" was referring to the model number and not the actual voltage.  :o

Anyway, according to Botzilla, I wouldn't risk using that flash directly with the camera unless you've measured the actual voltage with a good VOM and can see for a fact that the voltage is within safe limits: http://www.botzilla.co​m/photo/strobeVolts.ht​ml (external link)


...Leo

  
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PacAce
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Jul 30, 2008 21:05 |  #21

digadv wrote in post #6016353 (external link)
What I really want to know if anyone has tried putting a high-voltage 283 on their hotshoe and does it work? I had to disconnect my wires to the hotshoe contacts, but would reconnect them if it's safe.

BTW, 200+ VDC will wake you up if you're not careful
:shock:.

I experienced that in college (electronics engineering lab) when I absentmindedly touched the bare metal part of a probe I was using to measure a voltage of DC power supply which had 200+ VDC across it. I wasn't looking at the terminal when I did that (I was looking down at the lab notes). I felt the jolt so I thought someone had punched my arms but there was nobody there when I turned around to see who did it. Good thing it was DC instead of AC. :shock: That's when I really learned to respect electricity and not take it for granted!


...Leo

  
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scorpio_e
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Jul 30, 2008 21:08 |  #22

I think I will use my ebay triggers :)


www.steelcityphotograp​hy.com (external link)

  
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SolidxSnake
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Jul 30, 2008 21:54 |  #23

Don't worry about voltage... static electricity has a ridiculously high voltage. It's current that kills.

PC Sync and hotshoe have the same voltage limit. As pointed out by PacAce, Chuck Westfall has confirmed it, and I've personally used my 283 (at 103vDC) a multitude of times on my 20D with no ill effects.


Troubleshooting 101 (see also: LightRules,perryge):
1) RTFM.
2) Repeat Step 1.

Gear ~ DeviantART (external link) ~ My Heatware (external link)

  
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PacAce
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Jul 30, 2008 22:31 |  #24

SolidxSnake wrote in post #6017059 (external link)
Don't worry about voltage... static electricity has a ridiculously high voltage. It's current that kills.

PC Sync and hotshoe have the same voltage limit. As pointed out by PacAce, Chuck Westfall has confirmed it, and I've personally used my 283 (at 103vDC) a multitude of times on my 20D with no ill effects.

Have you ever seen the warnings about discharging the static electricity on your body before handling RAM memory boards or any but especially delicate electronic components or equipment? :shock:

BTW, Current (I) = Voltage (V) / Resistance (R). If the resistance is very low, you can get a lot of current flowing through even with low voltages. Lucky our body has a relative high resistance or those 9V batteries could be deadly. ;)


...Leo

  
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SolidxSnake
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Jul 31, 2008 00:21 |  #25

PacAce wrote in post #6017245 (external link)
Have you ever seen the warnings about discharging the static electricity on your body before handling RAM memory boards or any but especially delicate electronic components or equipment? :shock:

BTW, Current (I) = Voltage (V) / Resistance (R). If the resistance is very low, you can get a lot of current flowing through even with low voltages. Lucky our body has a relative high resistance or those 9V batteries could be deadly. ;)

Electrostatic Discharge (ESD). The static in your body could essentially fry pretty much any sensitive electronic component. I've been working computers and loads of electronics since the ripe old age of 4 (around 12 years now) and I've never once worn a grounding strap on my wrist. Never killed anything with ESD either. I also work on carpet and my bedsheets. I guess I'm just lucky :D


Troubleshooting 101 (see also: LightRules,perryge):
1) RTFM.
2) Repeat Step 1.

Gear ~ DeviantART (external link) ~ My Heatware (external link)

  
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PacAce
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Jul 31, 2008 07:13 |  #26

SolidxSnake wrote in post #6017812 (external link)
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD). The static in your body could essentially fry pretty much any sensitive electronic component. I've been working computers and loads of electronics since the ripe old age of 4 (around 12 years now) and I've never once worn a grounding strap on my wrist. Never killed anything with ESD either. I also work on carpet and my bedsheets. I guess I'm just lucky :D

Yes, you are (unless you automatically touch the chassis first). And remind me never to call you when I need my computer fixed. :mrgreen: :lol: ;)


...Leo

  
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SolidxSnake
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Jul 31, 2008 09:43 |  #27

PacAce wrote in post #6018866 (external link)
Yes, you are (unless you automatically touch the chassis first). And remind me never to call you when I need my computer fixed. :mrgreen: :lol: ;)

If you pay then I'll make sure to remind you. It's getting old fixing everyone's computers for free :D

I do automatically touch the chassis though... much of the time it's after I unplug it from the wall (thus it's not grounded) :D


Troubleshooting 101 (see also: LightRules,perryge):
1) RTFM.
2) Repeat Step 1.

Gear ~ DeviantART (external link) ~ My Heatware (external link)

  
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Vivitar 283 and 40D .Will it work?
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