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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 29 Jul 2008 (Tuesday) 09:26
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Natural Color fill in flash

 
danielyamseng
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Jul 29, 2008 09:26 |  #1

I was wondering why I get a bit yellowish image if I metered the ambient light of the subject and then set it to 1 stop lower than actual exposure. Flash is bouce flash. Either ETTL or manual flash power( adjusted for correct exposure) still yield a bit yellowish image.

I use 1/25 f4.0 in Manual mode at ISO800 with flash output set to 1/32 bounce from ceiling at 6ft. I use Kelvin balance to 5500K.

If I use 1/60 f4.0 in Manual mode at ISO100 ETTL flash (bounce) , I'll get a bit reddish image. The former is closer to the real color.

Changeing the aparture or shutter speed would not make the background darker.




  
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René ­ Damkot
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Jul 29, 2008 10:07 |  #2

Probably because either the ambient is tungsten lighting, and / or the walls you are bouncing off aren't neutral.


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Jim ­ M
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Jul 29, 2008 12:18 |  #3

danielyamseng wrote in post #6006369 (external link)
I was wondering why I get a bit yellowish image if I metered the ambient light of the subject and then set it to 1 stop lower than actual exposure. Flash is bouce flash. Either ETTL or manual flash power( adjusted for correct exposure) still yield a bit yellowish image.

I use 1/25 f4.0 in Manual mode at ISO800 with flash output set to 1/32 bounce from ceiling at 6ft. I use Kelvin balance to 5500K.

If I use 1/60 f4.0 in Manual mode at ISO100 ETTL flash (bounce) , I'll get a bit reddish image. The former is closer to the real color.

Changeing the aparture or shutter speed would not make the background darker.

This sounds like you are getting the tint with ambient light from incandescent bulbs to me. The fact that when you drop the ambient exposure several stops it shifts from yellowish to red is a huge clue. I imagine you are seeing the tint in the shadows and background.




  
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danielyamseng
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Jul 29, 2008 20:38 as a reply to  @ Jim M's post |  #4

The ceiling is white and the light source is flourescent light.




  
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René ­ Damkot
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Jul 29, 2008 22:43 |  #5

There you have the answer (fluorescent)

You'll get a color cast at shutterspeeds that are not including a "full wave" of the mains.
(Mains frequency60Hz: 1/60s > 1/125, 1/60, 1/30 etc. Mains frequency 50Hz: 1/50s > 1/100, 1/50, 1/25 etc. )

And obviously the WB needs to be set to fluorescant, and the flash gelled to match.


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Titus213
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Jul 30, 2008 01:08 |  #6

René Damkot wrote in post #6010682 (external link)
There you have the answer (fluorescent)

You'll get a color cast at shutterspeeds that are not including a "full wave" of the mains.
(Mains frequency60Hz: 1/60s > 1/125, 1/60, 1/30 etc. Mains frequency 50Hz: 1/50s > 1/100, 1/50, 1/25 etc. )

And obviously the WB needs to be set to fluorescant, and the flash gelled to match.

That's the part that makes it really all come together. With that you've just made all the light the same color.

Now if I could just get that down as second nature...


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danielyamseng
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Jul 30, 2008 04:58 as a reply to  @ Titus213's post |  #7

WB set to flourescent would yield a slightly bluish image. I guess the flash partly contribute to this. Can I modify the kelvin to compensate for these ambient to flash ration lighting?

Or I had to gel the flash?




  
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krb
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Jul 30, 2008 09:45 |  #8

danielyamseng wrote in post #6011966 (external link)
Or I had to gel the flash?

This.


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Titus213
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Jul 30, 2008 10:31 |  #9

Using a gel on your flash to bring it to the ambient temperature will work. Balancing two widely different light temps is near impossible in most cases.

Your other option is to eliminate ambient and use all flash to light the scene.


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Natural Color fill in flash
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